audio-neon

what interior parts are you looking for, i'll go through my garage o'goodies.

Going over budget is the norm. man.......... J I guess i'll give a little explanation of what i'm doing. I'm going to spend all summer putting money in the bank, Late summer I'll buy my camaro, enjoy it for a month or so. I will take a video of me cruising on the highway before sound deadening. Than once winter rolls around, the car is getting stripped, sound deadenend and than its off to Audio Obsessions to be built by Jeff for sound quality. I will be using product we all know exclusively (minus wiring) And than I will be doing a comparison with an expert iasca camaro (same body style, same installer). Will eventually be holding a mock IASCA event, judging the two cars face to face as a testament to many companies found on this forum. The car i'm facing is owned by a member of the elite team image dynamics, and competes in IASCA in expert class. I will be fully documenting the build, and will finish my review off by adding the video of me driving down the highway again showing the difference in floor noise after sound deadening. To give you an idea of what I'm up against, Jeff estimates if a customer were to walk into Audio Obsessions and hand him a camaro to recreate what his car is it would cost somewhere around 16k for install, equipment, and tuning.

Just a little physics for you. As a piston moves down in a cylinder it is creating a vacuum. The amount of volume the piston displaces on its down stroke determines how much air is drawn into the cylinder. Air density, which is derived from pressure/temperature, is what changes. What the factory intake is guilty of is not being designed for keeping the air as cool as possible, rather it's designed for acoustic properties, ease of tube routing etc. The air filter when replaced with a K&N drop in will almost completely make up the difference from the paper filter, which restricts airflow, lowering the intakes ability to flow air. Air turbulence is also a common flaw in factory intake systems. Cars are a dynamic equilibrium, add more air until the computer senses knock from a lean ratio, than said car ups fuel consumption. A rich car will produce less power than a properly tuned and/or lean car. A lean car is just at risk of detonation. It's just like saying that free'er flowing exhaust will increase gas mileage. Which is also not true once you get to a certain level of flow. A car with just an exhaust manifold will preform worse because of the lack of back pressure, which is bad for the valvetrain. On another note, if your car is tuned conservitavely for 93 octane and you were to use 89 octane, you won't get worse gas mileage until the computer pulls timing from knocking (which you could realistically never hit that point. In theory if your car is factory tuned (ie, tuned rich) adding a cold air intake and increasing the air density will increase gas mileage. If it adds enough density for the knock sensor/computer to cause a timing retard you will not see gas mileage increases, and could see a decrease in fuel efficiency. For example, a buddy of mines 2005 Ford Mustang roush stage 1 got worse fuel economy, knock, rough idle etc... from a steeda cold air intake until he had the computer tuned.

I guess I should formally apologize to Zane, I did a little bit of construction and demo this week. I made 6 boxes. Brad nails with silicone.. Had sealing issues broke relatively easy with just my foot. Just glue... Held up well, and did break at the joints with enough blunt force. Just screws and silicone, had very minor sealing issues, and broke at the joints (around the mdf, the screws were intact) Brad nails, wood glue and silicone, worked very well, but the nail heads pulled through in demolition, meaning that it was a nail failure. Woodglue, screws and silicone was as expected the best of the builds. My final box was the only non 10"x10"x10" box. It was a double baffled with 45* joints only using glue.. When destroyed it proved to be as hardy as the single baffled screw/glue box but unlike the screw/glue box the joints failed before the mdf started flaking. I used titebond II, 1 5/8 coarse threaded screws, and 1.5" nails. I tested for sealing by drilling a 1" hole in the box and attaching a shop vac, using the blowing side I wet the joints with soapy water (the same method used for tires and hoses). I would have had pics but my camera is in Italy right now.... I did this because I had some thinking to do. Last season, my spl boxes were all built using pre-drilled and countersunk screws, and titebond II, I never had a joint failure. I did have a baffle break in one of my boxes, and the joints were completely intact.

Not a big fan of beer, Why are you awake denim??? Slow night at work, working on some math for my next car audio build... Need to decide on a couple more product choices still. Mostly dealing with wiring, sound deadening, processing and budget goals (which i'll probably double at least)

Exactly, almost. Lower octane fuel burns easier. Ironically enough we all think that 93 octane is more potent, it's less potent. Just like poorly designed cold air intakes, or just using a k&n intake can also lower your fuel economy if the air passing the maf is warmer. More air= more fuel injected. On anoter separate note, cold air intakes, don't mean your engine is actually pumping more air, as when the cylinder is moving downwards and the intake valve is open, the engine is only taking in as much air as cylinder displaces (plus a little more from atmospheric pressure.) *Not including forced induction engines*

off to work, i'll be back on ~11pm eastern, its when my job slows down.

Use division, If you are running 3 power, use 3 160 amp fuses.

by my previous post, you can pm me details about that table, please

Oh my... Details ? It's a VPI HW-19jr, upgraded armboard, counterweight, record clamp, dustcover and manual included though they're not in that pic. Absolutely no marks on it, just looks dusty with the light. I'd be a little scared of shipping it that distance, though... Shipping would probably be too risky Looks nice... Too bad shipping companies hate me. lol

143.6 on music is a great score

looks good

slow night in the hop

and here are the rest of the pics of my first system. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2325907/2

D@mn That is clean. Too bad that car met a tree. Ironically enough, today is the day I finally finished the loan payments for that system and i'm posting about that car.

Mike 1? guessing that was meant for someone else, i'll be back after the movies, later hop.

you can see some basic ones here: http://audioobsessions.com/Gallery/

That was my spare tire wheel install... For basic ones, i'll find some pics.

ohh, and finally running optical audio from my xbox 360... can definitely hear the difference

I'm currently working on some details for another sq system. yay.

i love their old stuff from around 2005.

This will definitely be going in my next sq build.

They actually sound pretty good, I used to have an extreme spare tire well install... Hold on, and i'll find some pics.

also powermaster and ohio generators

Uggh...... Now I remember why I stopped going to forums.............. Obviously you missed the material and observational learning part on the job sites. That or relating whats learned to similar projects. Building a house is a thousand times more complex than a simple subwoofer box. Yet both involve nails, screws, and glue. Of those 3 general materials, I've seen litterally thousands of houses, buildings, complexes, stores, where nails and glue have failed. (And created quite a headache for repairs) Screws on the other hand, even rusted from weather, 98% of the time were still fastened in their original loactions, and continuing to serve their intended purpose. Now the real funny thing........ Of your (emphasized) "hundreds" of destroyed MDF Enclosures where the glue joint has held and the wood has broke; I can also point out the (emphasized) "thousands" of times that I've yet to see a screw fail before the wood breaks in MDF, HDF, PLY, CDX, OSB, Particle, etc...... If the wood glue alone works for you, so be it. Your general statement of wood glue being stronger than wood screws is where I have the problem. On that note, I'm done with this one..................... I agree that house construction vs. sub box construction is different. I stand corrected as I worded what I was trying to say incorrectly. The woodscrews would not fail, it would have been the mdf around them. I was trying to point out that generally the weakest part of the joint in 3/4" mdf is around where the screws are. Simply b/c MDF is rather fragile like particle board, it peels apart. I would also clarify that my jobsite experience is in demolition, and pavement/sidewalks as I do it as a hobby for my grandfathers company when he needs an extra laborer. I have never constructed a house, or done extensive carpentry work in any job thus far.