audio-neon

I stopped by Audio Obsessions yesterday to get quotes for my brothers truck and the owner was there. He told me to go upstairs and look at some of his new inventory (audison/hertz/ the new image dynamics stuff/ and this lone zapco amp I saw sitting in the corner). So while I was snooping around (and making sure my 2005 Diamond D7 amp was still sitting hidden in a corner up there) I grabbed the zapco box and brought it downstairs to look at. I know zapco is good stuff and all. I like the idea of doing a single amp install in my stealth build as well. I also love the idea of grabbing my laptop and using digital crossovers etc. It looks like it will be a fun toy, now if I can just figure out if those 8" subs will fit in my rear doors.

I have toyed around with the 360.2 and the h701. But seeing as this isn't an SQ comp vehicle, just an awesome sounding daily driver; I am hesitant to spend over 600$ in processing, if this amp is capable of handling what I am looking for.

I need to stop filling my head with ideas of doing a stealth install in my Jeep, I should probably focus on home audio. A nice 26 cubic foot sealed box for a few 18"s should piss the neighbors off and make movies like jurassic park, blackhawk down etc... really enjoyable. But who am I kidding. I will most likely do my stealth install and than feel the need to be unsatisfied in my audio world until I get done with college.

email SSA for best pricing to find out.

Right, but the amp is active capable. It would cost me less to use the zapco amp and loose time alignment. I could hook the amp up to my laptop to set the crossovers and all of that fun stuff. It would be smaller than side by side sax-100.4's etc... I'm just curious as to what else I am giving up by using my factory head-unit with this amp versus line-output converters to rca's to an h701.

oh. ok yeah that does make sense. i thought today was international talk chit to me day ha ha. dam. well, what good 15's are on the market nowadays if you dont mind me asking? Why not sell one of the Btl's. Than with your 1000 or so dollars buy a h/o alt, an amp kit and a sundown saz-1500d.

I would honestly email SSA and get the "real" price of a Sundown Sae-1000d. Or start saving up money for the upcoming sae-1200d. Either way a good clean 1100-1200 watts will really open up the lows on that woofer.

to the greatest car audio forum ever!

Remind me to check tonight. Got real sick last night and we had a massive down pour, so nothing got done. Aaron, I am looking for the depth too. I have a design cooked up for my 08 Jeep Patriot as well.

I am going to also point out that proper install will yeild better results. I have an 08 jeep patriot with 18+ cubic feet of available space if I wanted to use all of it and I am going to be using ~ 1 cubic foot and a single 8" sub instead of an 18" or bigger as it will give me what I want. You can be rediculously loud with a pair of tens and a 2 cu. foot box. I would just plan to start upgrading the electrical system. Plan to start with -200 amp alt -Optima yellow top or powermaster battery (or two) -I would start with a used saz-3000d if you want go-deaf loud -1 set of good components and a 4 channel amp for the fronts. There is a golden rule in car audio. Keep it simple stupid. Complex sound systems are more work than trouble.

Slow. Still waiting, have a vehicle and installers anxious to play with them... Just send me a pm (when you have them) Aaron.

At 6'2 and when you need a 55 in sport coats for your shoulders it's not going to be a real comfy ride. And the pedals are not spaced that wide from what I heard. But yes, it's an amazing design! damn. I'm 6'3" and wear size 15 shoe. Maybe I'm too big? Well, from what the dimentions look like on paper, it's not for me. I could be wrong sometimes on paper it's different. I can find the cabin specs, but I seriously looked at that car when I was in my all outr performace and eff the rest phase. I have seen a guy 6'7, riding passenger in an Atom. They aren't fun to get in or out but are rather comfy for a 40k dollar street legal go-kart. And I'm a big guy, at 300 lbs and a 50 jacket size (size 13.5 feet as well) I fit in it well.

oh and it's really not that uncomfortable at all.

that vehicle is street legal. Cheep too for it's performance, at least in the UK. Here it would cost allot to get, and, no real door or roof, pluss all the hassel of 4 wheeles... I'll take the bike anyday unless I had gobs of money to throw at a car only for sunny summer no chance of rain, don't mind being uncomfortable, only performace styled car. Actually they have a shop in the US as well. I believe it's in Oregon. They cost anywhere from 40-90k depending on options and are one of the fastest roadsters in the world. The guy who owns one around here is always wearing his bike helmet and I have seen him drive it when it's wet/ sprinkling.

the ariel atom is Street legal. There is one in my area that has plates, registration etc.. and we have the same laws as cali for vehicles.

No, the Ariel Atom is a purist's ultimate racing machine. I just can't get over the rush of surfing. It's slower but it is a completely different feeling and a much bigger rush than 0-60 in 2.7 seconds.

Aaron... all I can say is I want mine now! I will be waiting for that pm when you want my money for the first production "super 8's" you get.

Resonant frequencies are also install dependent. Don't expect to take your sub, toss it in a 1 ft. cubic box, run a sweep etc... And than put it in a 4 cu. foot ported box. Honestly, I would build your ported box (start a little on the larger side (~ 10% more than your design goal. I would also use aero-ports as it makes re-tuning easier.) Many will see my methods as overkill but they have worked in the past. Remember to have your seating in the position it would be in for metering (IE drivers seat all of the way forward or as far as you can with you in it, passenger seat all of the way forward with the seat tilted forwards or tilted all of the way back, back seats down etc... Also instead of playing a sweep, play 4 second burps Allow the car to recharge the batteries in between burps and find your 4 hz range. Now wait a full day to test out the 4 frequencies with as quick as possible burps from the resting voltage of your vehicle so that the sub is as close to the same temperature between burps. At least that is how I would do it. Now for the box, after you found your resonant frequency. (you will need an extra set of aero-ports to trash) I would take bricks and load them into your enclosure one by one (also recutting the aero-ports you will be trashing to keep the frequency the same.) This will help you to find your subs ideal enclosure volume with the power you have available (it also accounts for the affects the vehicle will have.

Sound deadening isn't really for keeping sound in. It will help but it will mainly remove the roadnoise. Honestly I would do 2 layers of damp, and a layer of luxury liner or overkill pro. For the trunk I would do 1 solid layer everywhere from the rear seats backwards.

If anything I would grab something cheap like a pair of hertz deici coaxials and put them on a switch so when you don't have passengers you can turn them off. Those co-axials should be ~150$ iirc.

Yes, Sean was trying to imply running active. I have played with the DD components (albeit active for me as well) and they aren't bad for the money and can get loud without being harsh.

With only 750 watts I would actually build a 3.6 cubic foot box tuned to 40 hz with a slot port, about 60 sq. inches of port, or a pair of 4" aero's. *edit* Now that I have read your entire post. I would still suggest building a competition box, tuned higher (read 38-40hz) and use atleast a 4" aero. I would than either upgrade your amp or order a dual 2 ohm recone if available and swap them out. You made a minute mistake; in your case I would have ordered a Q, it would have been louder for low end and probably even louder than your bl because it is more efficient as it is designed for 1000 watts rms it would have softer spiders etc. It also has more x-max and could probably take a 2000 watt burp at 40+ hz in a properly designed enclosure.

Honestly your port and tuning are killing you. I would build a competition box, 2.2 cubes with a 6" aero (place the inside edge of the aero on the outer side of the box and port away from the box.) Tune the box to 40hz. If you had ~2500 watts I would even shrink the box back to 2.0 cubes. Seriously though a 3" aeroport is robbing you of efficiency and dB's.

to SSA!

The true cone area of the sub is often listed in the t/s parameters. but basically it's pi*r^2 where r is half of the distance from the middle of the surround (either the highest point or lowest depending on the orientation of the surround in respects to the cone)