audio-neon

to the greatest car audio forum on the Internet!

good luck and god speed!

His has more to do with the fact that it's clean power and he knows how to build boxes to compensate for overpowering the woofer.

small port mark? lol

Only mods/admins can close topics. BTL's can take ~3600 watts rms daily from the average consumer.

when parents learn not to buy them sports cars I should add that I am not normally the person to really get on it, on the streets. I normally wait till I get to the track to race.

that sounds nice, its a pretty large truck, so what kinda box do you think would be best, i like alotta bump, deep long bass songs I don't remember the rec' specs from fi but 6 cu feet ported to 32 hz should be loud and efficient (96 sq inches of port)

My suggestion, although you may not like it, Is build an efficient system. Power would be provided by a 1000d and a 100x4. Polk Db series components up front and a Fi Q 15 would be my suggestion for drivers. Or if you wanted to go active, the mach 5 mids with your choice of tweet.

oh, my favorite pic was "grungy". Gotta love a beat up truck with muscle.

So I'm sitting out at the local mc'donalds tonight hanging out with some car buddies. I take the keys of my best friend b/c he had been drinking and I get him and 2 more people loaded up in my patriot. As we are pulling out, some douchbag in a v6 stang decides he's gonna do burnouts out of the lot (a major no-no). So he goes around me, and cuts me off using the straight only lane going onto the main drag. We get the next light, and my friend opens up his window, cursing these kids out. So they start revving, I prep by turning of the traction control but no revving. I let them spin their tires at the line, my buddy tosses an open beer in their car (top was down) and I leave them in my dust. I love my little jeep. When will teens stop being douchebags with a sports car.

I was simply implying that 350 watts at 4 ohms would probably be enough for my sd1-12". lol, the second part of my post wasn't directed at you, sorry. he has stated that this is going in boat and electrical is a bit of a concern. also, he mentioned that going to 2ohm would open the door to other subs, but there are a crap ton of svc4 and d2 subs out there. i'm just not sure if spending anymore money on an amp, for 50wrms, is going to be the answer. especially considering the electrical. again, sorry for the misunderstanding. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee I know, that's why I figured my sub would be perfect @ 8 ohms. lol

I was simply implying that 350 watts at 4 ohms would probably be enough for my sd1-12".

sean didn't you say 350 watts at 4 ohms?

Both of the sundown multi-channel offerings are underrated. I believe the 100.2 does 125x2

say what? Check out the Hybrid Audio forum on here for the group buy post.

It feels good that once in a while people like my suggestions.

Nope, actually the L3 is smaller and if I remember correctly has better off-axis response. Either choice would work great. I would go L4 if you were putting it in kicks, or L3 if you were going to mold them into your a-pillars for example.

don't forget if SSA gets 10 members in the group sale, that could be 25% off. It's currently at 10% off all sales, just remember to mention SSA during the checkout.

600 is per pair, I'm guessing that you are currently looking at the L8 speakers.

Incorrect. It simply makes the woofer more prone to peaking. IE in a ported application, you would need a slightly lower tune to remove the peakiness of the flatwind option sub. The flatwind sub will however (due to being more peaky) show more gains due to a "higher" tuned set-up.

I think hybrid audio's website has the link for an online retailer.

The hybrid audio is probably the more expensive option I listed, but there isn't anything that will touch it that won't cost you as much as a new car.

Finally found and uploaded a picture of Kristen Frederick's camaro before the 18" IB install (2 18d's iirc) http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...si&img=3258

IIRC we have already discussed this before. The rate of acceleration needed to get a subwoofer cone to move to 720mph, stop and return etc. Is impossible.

This whole home audio thing is throwing me for a loop. I take it pre-amps are like line drivers (except for making the signal more level from a table). Right now my equipment list looks like a dcx-2496 and I'm reading about amps as much as possible. Any good place to look for amps. I need something like a 120x4 @4 ohm amp and a 15x2 watt @ 8 ohm amp. I will most likely be grabbing an ep2500 for a pair of subs as well. Why does it have to be so confusing.