audio-neon

No electrical system upgrade in this or my Street A dB drag neon. Found here: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=8852

This is the car that got me the name audio-neon. The car that started it all. It took me 2 years to pay off. It lived several iterations of equipment, and it was my baby. The journey starts in December of 2004. I was a Junior in High School and I received this car fresh in paint, completely rebuilt. It was my baby. A 1998 Dodge Neon Coupe 2-door. In 2004 I added polk dB series coaxials. 6.5" in front and 6x9 in the rear. By late 2005 I was getting an itch for more. I went to my local car Audio shops and decided that Audio Obsessions was the place for me. Top notch customer service, and they were professional. They added a jvc 2 channel amp and a 12" Eclipse subwoofer. Soon after in early 2006 I was getting the itch for more. I decided that I wanted to go after sq but I also wanted an install that was mine. Unique. Because of my obsession with camaro's we came up with this shape that was modeled after an engine block. For front components I decided on memphis m-class components. Eclipse 8455 head unit with i pod, compustar pro ssr alarm/start and eclipse amps. I also decided on Diamond D1 sub-woofers for their sq and efficiency. This is the car that got me really started in the SQ world. Here are some pics of the building process: And some finished pictures of the build: Eventually the northeastern weather won out, and a patch of black ice killed my baby. Interesting fact, It took 5 gallons of resin to glass my trunk:

Which continent are we missing? lol.

Its all in the install. 90% install. Because your kicker l5's are still in a prefab box, you haven't even truly heard all of their potential. Are your goals more sound quality or loudness related?

emoticons other than hate me'

2kchevy... My retro build log (IE my big sq project) was motivated due to a gf wanting space.

It's tough to do, but don't sweat it too much, man. Go hang out w/ your friends and have fun (and, by fun, I don't mean going to bars, clubs, strippers, etc.) and just take your mind off of the situation. Give her the space she needs to work things out and enjoy your freedom while she does. I couldn't have said it better. You never know, she may just need some space. It is these moments that define a relationship. Give her the space she wants, remain faithful and wait it out for a bit. It's a perfect time to learn an instrument or some other hobby that you may have given up when you were younger.

My mistake, I had a mclass box laying in my room still. Must be from the m-class coaxials sitting in the box still, lol.

Probably 13 7/8 or 14"

turned on my dvd/cd player for the first time. Clicked the reciever over to 2ch-stereo. Straight sound no effects and I'm disappointed. Probably because I'm listening to Evanescence though. I love her and her music but it isn't impressive to critical listening.

You port depending on your tastes. I would say that normal falls within the 32-36hz range.

4 cu. feet ported to 32 hz should be the titz too.

They aren't specific Team shirts, just "Sundown Audio" shirts. I've been meaning to list them for sale... I have Small through XXXL in stock. I would love a xxxl one. pm me as well.

I hope you don't have a lot of winter driving, the difference from fwd to rwd is huge.

Actually I would have been more pissed off at the non-insured shipping.

I would contact hifonics and double check. If there were any board changes, they wouldn't be compatible with each other.

i currently have a Hifonics Bx1605d, can i buy a 1606d and strap it to the one i already have? No. If your current amp is strappable, I would just buy another 1605D and strap them.

I would definitely run a preamp with a DCX unit, that thing loves a hot input signal. Any suggestions for a pre-amp... I take it my reciever wouldn't do the trick.

I'm gonna try and decipher this politely: While this is true, there are speakers built for this. High efficiency speakers that have less excursion and therefore less "lower mid-bass". As Sean stated. You would not notice the difference. Our hearing is logrithmic, you need to increase the power by a factor of 10 to double loudness. Let's be nice and say the kicker amp does 65 watts rms @ 4 ohms at 12.7v. and the other amp does 80 watts rms @ 4 ohms and 12.7 volts. The difference of 15 watts is ~1/5th more power. Or 20%. You would need a 1000% increase to double volume. So realistically speaking the volume increase would be around a 10th of a dB. In a car environment a normal listener won't be able to notice a change unless it is around 2dB's louder due to floor noise. It's just how our ears work. People who are running dedicated mid-bass's are less concerned with amp rms, than their amps headroom. Just because they are running 100+ watts a midbass doesn't mean they are using all of it. And the extra power is often necessary to compensate for the lower efficiency of the mid-bass to the midrange and tweeter. True, it's the norm for people to port in the low 30hz frequency. Cabin gain in a car environment also helps. I don't see kids running around with 60hz tuned boxes everyday though. Not all subs are created equal. T/S parameters help determine what enclosure best suits a woofer. Some sub woofers will be inherently able to play lower. Starving a sub of a reasonable box volume is operator error. You can't take a 12" woofer and toss it in a 1cu foot box and expect stellar lows from it. Take the same woofer and give it a very reasonable 2cu foot box and low end difference will be night and day. Box design also comes into play. A ported box should reinforce the bottom end. A sealed box is naturally going to limit a drivers excursion. A small sealed box will often times have more trouble reaching low than a small lower tuned ported box just because the system is less efficient. Lower frequencies are often given more attention in the audio world. It's once again operator error. If your front sound-stage is good, than your sub-stage should be easy to blend. I have always found tweeter blending to be the hardest because of how efficient the tweeters are. This has nothing to do with the type of music. It has to do with the levels at which the music was recorded. It doesn't matter how many thousands of dollars you have in your system. It can only reproduce what the source material contains. If your source is contaminated with bad levels, your reproduction will be too.

If my intentions were to just play cd music would I still need a pre-amp. I think the behringer dcx-2496 would be my processor of choice.

^^ top

It's cool. It just seemed like an easy solution. The whole Home audio amp thing is driving me nuts. It's a whole new ball-field. I think I might just stick with car audio. So much less confusing to me.

I'm thinking about buying topgun's maggies. I would have to change the orientation of my listening room but they should fit.

MY substage suggestion would be Icon, IXL or Q.

alpine h701? Zapco 650.6 (dc series) etc.... for processing