audio-neon

The most noticeable areas to deaden are the front firewall/floor area and front doors.

sounds like a short or loose connection to me, might have to move some carpet.

use crutchfield to check that: www.crutchfield.com

Hell yea I do.

I may stand corrected...it depends in what context your using the word "myth" And I'm sure even with millions of trees killed to print all of those "scientific findings and hypothesis" we are that much closer to saying that we understand mother nature? It's a myth, meaning its concocted. It's nothing more than raising global awareness and added marketing. If you ask me, we all learned the truth in earth science when we studied the heating/cooling cycles of the atmosphere. It's nothing abnormal. And need I add that hydrogen cars that emit pure water are horrible for the environment too. At least from a global warming standpoint. The highest heat holding component of our atmosphere is water vapor. Add more water vapor= more heat absorbed by the atmosphere. And don't get me started on the effects of concrete and local temperatures.

Global warming is such a myth. You have to realize that we have only be accurately recording temperatures/ recording the depth of arctic ice for a little over 100 years in most cases. Even if you take a 500 year sample, it's nothing in comparison to the lifespan of the planet. The planet goes through a natural change of temperature. That is why we have Ice Ages.

just wondering is there a reason why it would be stupid? also thanks for the SSA love. You would be dealing with cancellations and conflicting transient responses. In other words, it would sound like crap. Subs would be muddy and could even be quieter.

2:52 left at work.. god it's taking forever.

I only have the ability to use 3 8" drivers, 2 10" or 1 12" drivers. To push 150+dB's out of a trunk would require a super efficient box, and 2 really efficient woofers.

Basically what they did was make street A a vehicle dependent class. You really need a yugo, crx, rabbit etc to even think of going to world finals now. 1 amp only... car off etc. You can only realistically see 3 maybe 4k watts in this set-up. Pro-audio drivers and really creative box designs are the only way those of us with trunk vehicles can hope to do well at the regional level.

I feel bad for mini-g's box. But it's less painful than plucking them out 1by1

i'd win. i'm bringing a gun..lol... audio-neon...see what happens when one jumps into the middle of a conversation without reading all of it? i flat put my foot in my mouth and will respectfully back out of the conversation now, lol. sorry. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee I wasn't trying to confront you. I was more or less giving you the cliff-notes of what we were talking about.

This is exactly what the new Street A rules are making some of us dB draggers look into.

ok, going by this thought process, when coasting (in neutral) the engine is simply spinning by momentum, until i press the gas and then it "restarts"? i can't believe this. teh rpms stay a constant amount, around 750, if it was strictly momentum they would go down. they would have too due to drag, both internally and parasitic (accessory drive belts).you simply can't get around those two objects and they will defeat momentum. so there as to be some fuel going into the engine to keep rpms at the set idle. and in old cars especially. i mean there was an idle screw on that carb for a reason, no? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee We were talking about engine braking. Like going down a hill in 3rd gear at 3k rpm. The injector load would be @ 0%. The gravitational constant, minus friction, minus parasitic loss etc, the engine would be kept at an rpm ABOVE idle due to gravity and momentum. Once the rpm's dip down close to idle, the injectors would start the combustion process again, keeping the engine at/slightly above idle.

Jacob if you hurt yourself, I'm cheap enough to hire... I can atleast help out down there.

chat doesn't work, at work.

pst.. pm me some proto t/s, lol.

I'll see what I can do to test this. I will have to make a drive to vermont and play with some mountains, but I have all the equipment needed to test this out. And yes, engines are more efficient starting than idling. I believe it's 20 seconds though. It's a minute difference for all respects, it would probably add up to 10$ in a year of savings.

Can you provide t/s parameters for the ixl10.2.2 and what kind of x-max does it have. I think I found a new winner for a solid Street A driver under the new 1-amp rules.

Anyone have any input on any of these tables?

I'm gonna have to double check this sometime this week. I'll ask the faja about it seeing as it's what he does for a living and than I'll see if I can borrow his chrysler scan tool and measure the injector load when going down a hill.

and a yes from me as well.

The subs don't determine the amount of current in an alt you need. The amps do.

What is the full name of the amp.. Is it an older Lanzar Opti-drive 2100.

What's your stock on IXL18.4's look like. I will probably be needing some later on this summer (2).