audio-neon

As of right now my plans are: HU- Eclipse cd8455 Amps- Diamond Audio D7054 (for compression horns and rears) Eclipse Ea4000 for front components Sub Amp- Undecided, leaning towards DD m1a due to price Sub- Fi Q 15 Dual 2 ohm Front Sound stage- Hertz Space k6l components Horns- Image Dynamics CD1 Pro Rear sound stage- Hertz ECX- 165 co-axials Sound Dampening will be provided through an array of second skin products. Wiring will be through an extensive array of Stinger products Kinetik Hc 1400-1800 under the hood Irragi or Excessive Amperage H/0 Alt.

Do you suggest doubling up for a 15" q on around 1200 watts 4.5 internal net (closer to 3.5 gross after port and sub displacement) tuned to 30hz.

PM me a price, and I'll let you know. As for the Rockford amps, never been a big fan. Love the smaller names in audio.

anyone have any thoughts on the memphis prd1000.1?

I have a chance to buy a Diamond D7 D7054 for a pretty good deal, BNIB. My question is, should i buy it and put my bass on hold. I can get the d7054 now and get my new subwoofer amplifier later, and get my Fi Q about a month later. The good news is i could sell off my eclipse ea4000 to try and re-coup what i lost in buying the legendary d7 amp. Some of the things i have going on right now. Looking to get a h/o alt and a kinetik hc1400/1800 Upgrading to 1/0 power and grounds, and doing the big 3. Maybe eventually getting a new front sound stage.

If it was possible i don't think it would be cheaper, but it could be.

In a properly built ported box the btl's should have more output than the q's. For a couple of reasons. The btl can handle boatloads of power, ported boxes have more output, and the btl is made for spl. The q's would still get crazy loud, but 2 btl's can handle 4 times the rms wattage than the 4 q's. If you are going for output, than get 2 btl's and run either one amp per sub or one amp per coil. My suggestion would be about 4kw per sub. If you were going with the q's it would definitely be cheaper. My suggestion would be 1 4kw amp (dd z1, rf 4kw etc etc....)

12-16 sq inches of port area per cubic foot of box = 41-56 sq inches of port.

Has anyone used: The sundown 1500d Us Amps M2.d2 DD m1a any comments on the amps, reliability, clean power etc...

Damn, i wanna suv so i can do tricks.... Damn trunk vehicles. Maybe i'll just get an extended cab truck and do a wall someday.

I am interested in the Sundown 1500D. Right now, price wise, the DD m1a is looking the best, unless i get a crazy deal on the 1500D or M2.d2 even though overpowering a Q, head room is a good thing.

m2.d2 should easily produce more than 1500 watts, more like 1800.

i lied, the box will be sub up, port up.

where can i get a merlin for around 500? i think that they are solid amps. and would love a md2d but i think it would be a little overkill on the Q, which is only rated for 1000 watts rms.

The m1 is at audio obsessions getting bench-tested right now. If it is in fact dead, i will be ordering a DD m1a today. And in two weeks be buying my Q.

MY other amp is still running, its powering my front components. I just don't get how my DD m1 failed, it wasn't being stressed, it wasn't even warm. It was just clicking off test tones at 36 out of 60 volume of my eclipse cd8455, with the non-fader set at +3. I am going to hook it back up in my car and see if it at least turns back on right now, ill let you know shortly.

i wish i was that lucky. I have been powering 2 Diamond D1's off of a DD m1 amplifier, and yesterday on the way to work the amp shut off and wont turn back on. I checked all of the wiring and my other amp still works. The guts look the same they did as the day i got the amp, nothing burnt or exploded. I have yet to take the box back out of my car to check the subs as I am guessing that I melted a voice coil so the amp doesn't see a proper impedance load. If that is the case than new Fi sub it will be, if it isn't than i quit car audio.... lol. My subs were slapping whenever i turned the volume up and i wasn't trying to preserve them at all, just wondering how long they would take the abuse. So i am really frustrated that the amp gave out, and not the subs. Oh well, once the temperature gets back above a negative 20 degrees with wind chill I'll work on diagnosing the problem.

i guess im gonna have to go with IASCA, even though i have to travel out of the country for the nearest sq competitions, or south 4 states for one. It sucks just a little, makes me consider doing spl, as there are about 10-20 competitions a year only 2 and 1/2 hours away.

You know your addicted to car audio when..... You can recite theile small parameters, but you dont remember your anniversary, You have owned more woofers than sneakers in your entire life. You have more sheets of mdf than channels on your tv. Under your christmas tree= 8 spools of 1/0, a kinetik powercell and 10 sheets of 3/4 inch thick mdf. You have more pages of notes of car audio designs, systems etc... in your college notebook than actually class notes. when you have handed in a research paper about a subwoofer and its interaction with its surrounding environment in physics class. You buy a cd just because of the studio it was recorded in is known for its utmost quality. Not only can your girlfriend wire, build boxes, do all of the math for port areas etc, understands impedances and current, but she buys you car audio stuff for your birthday, christmas and valentines day. And my personal favorite is: you stripped your car the first day you bought it, layed down 200 sq feet of sound deadenning, 4 runs of 1/0, 4 runs of 1/0 for ground, all of the speaker wire, and than put it all back together without even having the amps or speakers yet.

Quoted From DD's website: The Z1 makes incredible amounts of power from stock electrical systems; it was designed to make the most power from limited current supplies. The high efficiency comes from paying close attention to every stage through the amp circuit. Multiple power supplies, high speed controller chipsets, efficient power devices and precise thermal management were key to the Z1 design. These attributes make the Z1 at home in world record spl cars or high powered subwoofer systems where 400 pounds of battery bank aren

20.1 = Incriminator Audio

if you upgrade your charging system, the DD z1 has benchtested in excess of 5kw rms on 14.4 volts. How do you like the z1, i really really want one.

If it makes you feel better UNIT 6639 I ran 4 10" subs sealed in my sq car and now as my temporary bass situation i am running 2 tens ported in my non-totalled audio neon.

I love my 8455, it is clean and powerful. I would deffinitely agree that the two knobs scroll way to sensitively. The 8v pre-outs were only a concern so far with treo amps, they dont like anything above 6v. The tuning is exceptional for a HU, although as a true audiophile i want to upgrade to a 30 channel 1/3 octave eq as well. I find the Fader control much more refined than alpine/ pioneer headunits and it makes much more precise adjustments possible. For example in rap or bass heavy songs i run the fader at -1, for classical and such i run the fader at +1 and for rock i run it at 0. And it seems to keep things even. Having a DD amp, i have a bass knob that can very quickly switch things from sq, to an insane dust cap slapping distorted mess we like to call over-excursion.