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Everything posted by audio-neon
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That is very interesting, when i get my Fi subs, i will have to talk to one of the Installers at my shop and get him to lend me some idmax's so i can do a review of them in the same exact car. Than i will compare them against his car which competes nationally in iasca, he is running Image Dynamics 18" subs from about 98.
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not only are you starving the box of port area, but you are starving the port by not giving it enough room to breath, if you want to port it, your best be would probably be a slot port, so you could turn the end.
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FI 418s 4th order single reflex bandpass design!!!
audio-neon replied to ronrico418's topic in Fi Technical
If you are looking for a great all around woofer i would choose the Bl over the Q, its definitely got enough sq/spl to hold its own from either perspective, and it can handle more power. -
nice, i like it.
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Mike in my sq car i went the other way from a false floor. And loved it. Here is a pic of my old trunk:
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That is why i love my shop. They are constantly bringing in new products for me (or the two installers previously mentioned) to test and give reviews on. A-Obs decides what brands it is going to carry from actual demo's, not just number crunching.
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FI 418s 4th order single reflex bandpass design!!!
audio-neon replied to ronrico418's topic in Fi Technical
Personally if you are going for spl, stick with the bl's and btl's. I would choose the btl's just because they are virtually indestructable. Maybe some crazy amps like a Pair of DD z1's, -
Wow, I guess i am really lucky with my shop. I walk in the door and they ask me what I want, they don't even make suggestions to me, unless it is the owner or two of the installers, who compete for team image dynamics, the rest of the employees, just ask me what i need. I don't even have to put down deposit anymore, i have spent so much money there. So today in my infinite noob-ness, i went through 3 mini anl fuses, and got lucky as hell b/c when i installed my equipment at 5:30 am i wired my power to my ground and visa versa on my semi-broken DD m1 amp. So after i finally figure out what i did, sitting in audio obsessions parking lot. I turn on the system (2 10" diamond d1's in a 2ft^3 ported box and start setting my gains, and this kid who i remember from best-buy about 3 months early parks next to me. (i had given him a-obs business card) Some small talk, eventually leads to him criticizing my puny tens, and that his mtx 12's were better blah blah. So I talk to the owner, set up the tl and we both pull inside. The kid hit 119 on "2000 sony watts" I blasted a 137 from the trunk of a neon on ~800 watts from the trunk of a neon both played a 20-60 hz sine wave and mine is a trunk vehicle, vs a crx.
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yes... Someone please call me a noob, what would you do to strap amps. Run interconnects from one amp to another and than what?....
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That is exactly why i want an extended cab dakota (building an spl vehicle next). When deciding on new vehicles it is my first thought, how much room/ cost would doing a system in that vehicle. That's why i have been doing neons, cheap expendable vehicles so i don't feel guilty tearing them apart and modifying almost every panel.
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Mike, are you looking for more upper end bass or low end bass? What car is this in, how is your box configured etc... (port up sub up, port back sub up etc...) How much more out put are you looking for? Are we talking db's or to the ear.
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2 6" diameter at 14.3" long for 32 hz tuning
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i have never run multiple sub amps yet (will be once i get my sundownz). My thought on this is that you have to run rca splitters, they look like a Y.
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I think i'll just end up buying a new eclipse deck with the 5v pre-outs, i have killed a few too many amps. 6v on my deck is like 50, and man i just can't resist the urge to get all the way up to clipping (64 i believe but i have never turned it up past 60) No, actually i'm cool with that. I just have to get my brother to be cool with that, because he likes to crank it when he gets in, but i doubt he is gonna wanna crank on 4kw and a 15" btl for too long.
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i always do it at the speaker terminals at the amp, unless you want to get fancy and screw the dmm terminals in the extra set of speaker wire terminals in you mono amp ( if it has it).
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They are made for a 6 volt input. Set the gain structure accordingly so you won't hit 8 volts on the HU and it'll be fine. That always seems to be my problem, it is apparently a possibility for how i screwed up my DD m1.
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They are gains. Thank you once again jacob.
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also, will the amps handle a 8v input??? My headunit is an Eclipse 8455 pro, 8 volt pre-outs. etc etc...
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just out of curiosity, but are DD knobs, gain knobs or bass boost knobs???
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Awesome job grim, i'm sure the next time he hears the words Fi, he is gonna plug his ears in advance!
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thanks jacob. I am trying to get a few of my friends to jump in on this pre order as well, and my shop too. I talked to the owner today and told him he should get in on the pre-order for his car, so he could check out the product/company.
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I was looking at getting 4 of them and strapping them (pair per vc) on Fi Btl 15 Dual 2 ohm (1.4 dcr) sub woofer. The electrical system was going to be a 180 amp (at idle) irragi alt and 2 kinetik 1400 or 1800's.
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Just got mine in today, gave me a little smile. Thank You Fi.
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the most accurate way to do it, to take your amps, set the gain on one for max. output (clipping point at clipping point of head unit). than take a dmm and measure watts at about half volume and set the gain on the second one until the wattage from amp 1 and amp 2 match.
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would these amps handle .7 ohms on a healthy power supply (like a 180 amp alt, and a pair of kinetik hc1400's?.... If i ran 4 of them at .7 ohms, lol. Anyways, if I wanted more than two *unless there is a limit* is it just 200 dollars for every amp after the first one, or is there even more of a discount, if i bought 4 of 'em.