Smartass
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Everything posted by Smartass
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Could you also make some clearifications on the power ratings. As its hard to swallow a few of the numbers. Or explain. Im not calling USAMPS out I just want to know how to justifiy to a customer that knows abit that a xt4000D does 1500Wrmsx1 @ 1ohm with 3 x25amp fuses? This would make it roughly 138% efficent. Thanks please keep in mind I am a long time customer and sold them too. Dating back to the late 80's-90's
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The Canadian ones take a little longer as they goto our US warehouse and then we clear them and then send them out.
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No sorry they are complete kits, but may aswell get the kit use what you need and then your left with a ton of parts that you may be able to sell and recoupe the cost of the kit.
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Dude you need to splash this everywhere and use the Itrader system over on CCA. I would also call the police OPP and all you guys report it.
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Thats sweet, I love the old Crunch gear had 2 including one of the CR50SHC
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The problem with obtaining a high excursion woofer and running it with 300Watts is this. Most SPL high excursion woofers are high powered and stiff to handle abuse. And 300Watts will hardly impress you if it does not move the woofer much. I agree with the guys try a MAW-12 it has softer suspension then that of a High Excursion sub and moves well with that type of power. Mark please correct me if im off. thanks
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Correct sir and the RCA's are $8.50usd Thanks
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Agreed thats where I was heading.
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How much power was your Belle the 1100?
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1 x SAE1000D $325cdn 2 x SAE1000D $585cdn Regular Retail $499cdn each
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^^^ Totally agree
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I think that might be a good idea, as people don't mind paying for amps and subs but don't know what it takes to power them and always want to do the wiring as cheap as possible. This way if they go 4 gauge then 1 ohm is doable. But if you rate it at .5phm and they expect it, they will still use 4 gauge power. Like stated about, some people "New DIY's" will run with the bare minimum and if it reduces returns and RMA's then I would in a heartbeat. The people that are truely serious and understand all aspects will use zero and a second batt. But keep in mind the SPL market is only 8-10% of the total share. So I say you are right for doing it.
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That looks awsome Jacob, well done man.
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Any idea of end user cost Mark? What will it be rated at? And you also said that it was louder then all of the 12" drivers on the test except for two. Was that test using the same enclosures for all the subs and was it Termlabed? Thanks
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One of the problems is you need a logo that is vinyl, silk screen and print friendly. When you get into printing multi colours and more 2-5 different setups for printing it becomes costly.
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He is running both sets in his front doors I assume. If not then yes your correct a 4ch may work better for fading purposes. However if his idea was to put them in all door they are fairly close together and fade may not do to much anyways.
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Sorry dude lol
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Or he must love his mother very much to let them go
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37hz on that one
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BTW ///M5 who was the chick in that pic in your sig?
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Any word on power specs and then what they would handle outside of the specs?
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Looks killer dude, cool box
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Well those comps are 4 ohm final load, 200Wmax and 50Wrms. So they should have plenty at 100Wrms each set. I would run one Sundown SAX100.2 at 2ohm stereo and bridge two sets in each door while running one channel to each. This will give you 200Wrms+ to each door aand plenty of head room. By using a SAX100.4 you never really allow the amp to get to the full potential.
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Not to mention the allen type screws tend to strip and get damaged quicker. My vote goes to the screw terminals.