Moofs

I'm considering the option of adding a small battery to the back to help with voltage. From searching around I seem to find one style of wiring it up. I was under the impression that I would need to a whole new run of wire from the front battery to the back. Which would result in 2 runs of power wire going front to back. This is something I don't want to do. On the other hand, like the picture below, it seems I can wire it as such: A single run of power wire from the front battery to the positive terminal of the battery in the trunk. From that positive terminal another run of wire goes to the amp. Then the rear battery and the amp are both grounded in separate locations. Is that all? I was considering this battery: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17907_SHURiKEN-SK-BT20.html?from=857-141-701 And this isolator: (It's the right size, right?) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5288_PAC-PAC-80.html?from=857-141-701 Heres the photo I'm referring to, credit to whose car this is.

I'm pretty sure its a 100A alt.

So basically look for the biggest thing I can shove up front. I will mostly play with the car on/driving to be honest. At least at idle. Btw, what exactly does 20AH mean? Like what does that translate too when using it. I dont know what any battery specs mean really so I'm never sure what to look for.

Thanks for all the info!

Thanks! I forgot to mention something, I will actually have the 0g CCA wire run to the trunk, into a distro-block. It will split into one 8g wire for the 2 channel. The other split is 4g for the mono amp. It's about less than 5ft of 4g wire. So from the distro-block, that 4g would go to the second battery, then a run of 4g from the 2nd battery to the mono amp. Correct? And I should be okay running that smaller battery with out an isolator? B/c I found this one that isnt much more. While I understand this would help voltage drop, does a 2nd battery effect anything else such as alternator life span? I dont want to be frying my alternator trying to charge 2 batteries and keep having to dish money out on new ones. But since that 2nd battery is so small, will it be much of an issue? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_28364_The-Install-Bay-IB200.html?from=857-141-701

Well from the sheet specs the amp makes 570@2ohms and 800@1. How long does the car have to "sit" b4 the batteries drain? I usually drive daily but over summer there can be times I dont drive for 2-3 days.

It's just a daily setup. I'll be running a skar 800 amp and an alpine 2 channel that does 100x2. I'll initially run the skar amp at 2ohms which says it does 570rms but when clammed showed like 725. Then eventually I'd wanna run it at 1ohm down the road. So anywhere from 800-1000rms. Like I said, this is just a daily set up that I want to sound good and get loud on occasion. Won't be metering it or anything. I just want it to reliable so I dont run into problems and break stuff from low voltage.

I actually have a 18ft run of 0g CCA wire. Will this be enough? I think its rated for like 250A.

How has no one said the the MB quart onyx series. They are like 150-170 depending if you buy the 1000 or the 1500. I've only heard good reviews. I'd get that over audiopipe any day. I actually doubt I'd ever buy audiopipe.

Perhaps you should take what information you've learned of his practices, his past dealings, and reevaluate your thoughts on the matter--or not. I mean I've heard people bash Skar in the past, but I thought that was b4 it got such a following with everyone liking the VVX and all. It thought that was water under the bridge, guess not. This amp better be something great lol.

So I'm still new to car audio and dont know all the terms or how everything works. There are two things I'm still not sure about. 1) When you set amp gains, are you actually changing the amount of power coming from the amp? As in, if I have a 1000rms amp, by setting the gains lower can I actually just put out 500rms to the sub? I've heard mixed responses, but that you are always putting out what ever the amp is rated at. Because if this is the case, can't you run like a 2000 watt amp on stock electrical, but then just dial it back to like 800 rms or so? 2) What does "full tilt mean"? Is that just volume all the way up (before clipping I'm guessing) Thanks!

well with that info I doubt we will see an answer. I asked the same question on another forum twice and emailed him the question too. he says he emails back in two hours but that was 3 days ago. A simple "I'm not sure of the numbers" would have been a good enough answer. Hope at least the amp is awesome.

Thanks guys! this helped a lot. I learn something new every time I come on here. btw: Impious, I saw you asked about the specs in the Skar Amp thread. Did you get an answer? Since I dont see ur post there n e more.

Clamp test is useless. Ignore it. How come? Just wondering. I feel weird for actually wanting my amp to only do rated but for it to do 200rms over seems weird for that kind of power.

So do you mean, install it and set the gains. Then if I have voltage drop back off on the gains until my voltage is stable?

Will do! I'm gonna try to get a voltage meter too. I'm not a fan of adding a 2nd battery but I might try to upgrade the front with something nice. Maybe like a batcap 3000.

I have: All the wiring Skar 800.1D amp Sundown SA-12 D4 Alpine CDE 9881 HU Alpine MRV 2 channel I just need to buy some components. Probably the incriminator audio set. Then aside from that decide what to do with the sub. I put the Sundown on craigslist to see what I could get for it but so far people just ask to trade for like MTX subs or what ever.

You can't wire one D4 sub to four ohms. sorry I meant I have a dual 4 VC SA-12. So I'd run that at 2ohms now. But if the car I get is even smaller than what I have now. I'd get a Single 4ohm VC Dcon and run the amp at 4ohms and get the 400 watts it will roughly put out. (instead of the 725 it does at 2ohms)

the sundown is a dual 4 ohm so I'll run it at 2ohms. The car right now is a nissan maxima with 100amp alt but I may be getting something else come summer. So if the car is smaller and somewhere around like an 80amp alternator I think I just might swap subs for a Dcon to be on the safe side and run the amp at 4ohms.

Good to know. Heres my issue. I bought a Skar SK800.1 amp which is said to put out 570rms at 2ohms. Though on Skar's youtube channel they clamp tested it and got 725rms at 2ohms. I'd be running that plus a 2 channel that does 100rms x 2at 4ohms. Thats technically 925 watts. My concern is weather or not my stock electrical can take this. The sub I have is a sundown SA-12. I was almost considering selling it and getting a single 4ohm Dcon instead so I'd be on the safer side with less power. I'm just concern I'll be clipping and having insane voltage drop when ever I play at full tilt (see, thanks to you guys I now know what that means lol) I was gonna do the big 3 and thats about it. I dont have the money to get a HO alt or a ton of batteries. BTW: the HU I have has 2V pre amp outs

Anyone know where I can get the 187 or when they are releasing the new model?

So when will the 187 be back in stock or the new version be released? I'm holding off on buying a Dcon in hopes I can get one of these. Should I hold my breath?

Not rly interested in the fi X. The Dcon is my backup if I dont hear n e thing about the new I-12 soon. I hope its better than the 187 which was already hard to beat. But how come SSA doesnt sell them yet but other sites do?

yeah, I mean they are rated at 300rms. Have the vented VC like the 187 did. Entry level and almost exact same price. I might pick one up but I'll wait a little until some reviews flow through.

are those the "replacement" I saw an I series 8. Anyone know how they stack up to the 187?