jorscrivens

No, wire is based purely on size. That is why they suggest buying a larger gauge if you go with CCA rather than OFC. OP please just buy welding cable. You will will be much happier

I'm with you on wanting that logo. On the warden I don't have one because it fell off but the magnet does enough justice... To be honest, if you're like me you will eventually upgrade anyways. Why not get what you really want the first time? Just my .02 Get the DP and be happy. If that amp does what it says it does ( idk much about Helix ) you could put too much stress on the DR. The DP will love it in the proper enclose and you will be very satisfied.

I started my IA journey with an 18 DR and upgraded to a 21 DP. Though the DP may be more SPL oriented it performs very well musically IMO. You will not be dissapointed. I now have a 21 Warden and could not be more pleased with IA in general. Really just depends on how much you are willing to spend if you ask me

Hey guys. I'm looking to deaden my Jeep Cherokee the right way. But just like anyone else, I still want a quality product for a good price. I have heard tons of good things about quality and price of Second Skin, But I also found this site: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld very useful. I Understand the fundamentals of sound deadening and only want to do this one time with the greatest results possible. Please no arguing about asphalt or using low quality products or any of that other stuff they do on lame forums. My questions: 1. According to Sound Deadener Showdown, more than 25% coverage is a waste. I don't want to waste anything whether is be time or money! Is this a trustworthy enough site to believe? Has anyone proved this? 2. On Second Skins site, why is it that Alpha Damp is thinner and more expensive than Damplifier Pro but still claimed to be the BEST? Right now I'm leaning towards Sound Deadening Showdown, any input you guys have would be greatly appreciated!

Yea it depends on how much material needs to come off. If it's quite a bit, I would suggest a sander or as previously suggested a router. Hand sanding may take a while

I have a 98 Cherokee Limited with a 21" IA Warden. And if i were to give any advice I would suggest doing sub up, port up instead of the traditional sub up port back that most SUV's use. This will help get rid of the vibration of the rear hatch and lock mechanism which is inevitable and incredibly annoying. Sound deadening is highly suggested as well considering the whole truck is made of sheet metal and is prone to vibration. Good luck with your build

Mine was all wrinkly in the middle. I will try a "heat gun and elbow grease" to flatten it out

The more information the better. I would love to help, but I don't know anything about this setup, and your description is pretty vague. Try to be a little more descriptive and you will probably receive better answers. Good luck!

Doing the big three is always a good thing. It helps keep components that are part of your vehicle and aftermarket more safe by helping with voltage drop thus decreasing current draw. I would do it. It is a very affordable upgrade. Since you already have to wire up the amps, just buy a little extra wire and some terminals and take the extra time to make the improvement right away. You will be happy you did later on

Expanding foam between trunk layers maybe?

100% correct. Every part inside the amp has a tolerance. If you measure the resistance of a 20k Ohm resistor, it generally won't be exactly 20k Ohm. The nominal impedance is 20k Ohm, but the measured may be 19.87k Ohm. These tolerances add up when you have many parts. Theres where your differences come into play.

Here is the model you will need I believe: http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/scan/fi=products/st=db/co=1/sf=category/se=Air%20Spring%20Kits/op=eq/nu=0/sf=veh_make/se=Ford/op=eq/nu=0/sf=model/se=Mustang/op=eq/nu=0/ml=25/tf=category/to=x/tf=veh_make/to=x/tf=model/to=x/tf=description/to=r.html Lifetime warranty also

I have air lift ride control on my Jeep and it's awesome. They don't leak at all, and deflate rate is super fast. Does make your ride a little more "spongey" though. At least it did on the Jeep. I would highly suggest it as a suspension upgrade. http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/air_lift_suspension.html?gclid=CKn63oehma8CFSQCQAodj0i61g This is the cheapest site I found.

I'm trying to buy the other warden from Mr. Bojangles and I have a Jeep Cherokee which has very similar dimensions to your Trailblazer (43 X 22 X 22). I am tuned in

For the price and durability, you can't beat welding cable

Email Don directly at: [email protected] He will be able to answer all of your questions and then some. Good luck And don't forget to post pics!!!

Shizzon wasn't it you that had an awesome way to get larger wire than the speaker terminal would allow? I forgot the thread/pics or if it was even you...

125 watts!! Impressive...

Would it help eliminate rust? Possibly on the under body where rust is prone? For us that have to deal with salt of course

Ok guys, I did a little searching of old threads and didn't find what I was looking for. My problem is: My amp (IA 40.1 ) Batteries (big ass diesel truck batteries) and strangely my sub (IA 21 DP) are condensating! I live in Michigan, so I'm assuming this isn't entirely uncommon, but there isn't a lot of info on how destructive it is to your equipment. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

If your gonna do unique and crazy do liquid cooled!

That is an interesting car. 150+ db's in car!!! Dayum!! Haha

Research the hell out of the reliability of the car and the problems they usually have and whether or not the seller has ignored or serviced them. For an inexpensive used reliable car I personally would go with Honda Civic or Ford Focus. You can usually tell if a car has been loved or beat on. Just my .02

Sorry guys, I haven't been on in a little bit, been busy with school. My vehicle is old and the seals are probably leaking a little. The condensation bothers me only because it's pretty visible and I wasn't sure if a sub would actually be affected by light amounts of water. My sub isn't going to rust or anything, I was just wondering if climate was taken into account for car audio. In other words, are subwoofers somewhat condensation proof? The condensation isn't bad enough to short out the amp, at least I hope If it's my vehicle that's fine, I will look into it, but in Michigan the weather is unpredictable and I can go from 10 degrees to 60 really fast if I drive and then park in the garage. I'm assuming most people don't look at their sub magnet or amps too often so maybe condensation is fairly common. Thanks for the input.

Not a picture, but you can make one in your head... I once saw a guy that had led lights in his trunk. So he proceeded to hook up the speaker wire from his sub to the light and wondered why it didnt work. O and he had his sub running off of a channel on his head unit and wondered why it didn't "hit hard"