Viperoni

Nope, and i couldn't fit it either. I don't have the depth to fit the PR and sub back to back, and definitely not on any other side either. In any case, I'm still alive and the proejct is still on going, but it's been dragging.... I've got the sub in the box and it sounds pretty decent running off a Behringer EP2500 at home, but I get the feeling it is a bit small. We'll see how it performs in car. Also, I've got the amp rack built and primered, it's going to get painted tomorrow, and I'll get the wiring work done too. Hopefully by the end of the weekend i'll have some (lots) bass in the car Alright I finally got the amp rack installed and got the sub in too. I know i have grounding problems, and I haven't hooked up my 1g ground wire (dedicated) yet either, but, it still goes off loud enough to get windshield flex in the Echo. I'm sure I'm at 140db in terms of SPL. In terms of SQ, I'd rather not comment yet until I get my power issues straightened out. Hoping to have some more news in a week or two... harder to work outside now with the cold weather

Hey guys, I've got a Toyota Echo 4dr hatch, and I've got a Sundown SAE1200d and an XCon 15" fighting for space in the hatch area. I won't be able to make the 2.0cf smallest recommended sealed box volume recommended on SSA's tech section. I modeled the sub and it looks like a Qtc of 0.7 needs less than 2.0cf... unless I screwed up. So the ultimate question: has anybody used the Xcon 15" in less than 2.0cf and what did it sound like? Thanks!

Nope, and i couldn't fit it either. I don't have the depth to fit the PR and sub back to back, and definitely not on any other side either. In any case, I'm still alive and the proejct is still on going, but it's been dragging.... I've got the sub in the box and it sounds pretty decent running off a Behringer EP2500 at home, but I get the feeling it is a bit small. We'll see how it performs in car. Also, I've got the amp rack built and primered, it's going to get painted tomorrow, and I'll get the wiring work done too. Hopefully by the end of the weekend i'll have some (lots) bass in the car

I finished the bracing today, nothing crazy but just a little to help hold things together a bit better. Won't be able to do much with it tomorrow, but hopefully I'll be able to get some work in on Sunday.

Well I've got the box built and the sub hole cutout along with a couple of the braces cut. Still have a couple more left to go. I'm using 1" MDF for the baffle and after running the numbers, I'm looking at approx. 1.50cf net. It's definitely a small box! I should have some more news after the weekend... and I'll be able to do some testing with a Behringer EP2500

I take that as a no I managed to find some more space: I'm mounting my SAE-1200 on an angle and tucking it in a corner, and I bought an Arc Audio 4080 XXD amp to replace a huge Nakamichi 4ch... that should get me close to 1.75cf net.

At 1000 watts, I would definitely be leaning towards the Xcon because of it's excursion. ESRPECIALLY in a sealed box. Or 2 Icon's

Besides making sure you've got the polarity right between the subs and midbasses, I agree that the low end of the sub is overpowering the midbass. I've got my 15" Xcon in a 4cf box @ ~37hz, and if it was in a bigger sedan it'd be great, but in my NX2000, it's still a bit low end heavy. Try putting wood or styrofoam into the box and see what happens.

any of the above will work great. I would go with 2 DCONs if you can afford it. Cone advantage is priceless i've never heard a comparison of, for example, 1 12" on 500 watts compared to 2 of the same 12" on the same 500 watts. does it really make that big of a difference? i thought it wasn't much Close to 3db more, with better SQ to boot.

9-5 is Tier 2 IT support for medium sized company.

IMO, the screws will pull right through the wood. Definetely a nut, lock washer and washer on each side of the wood. I would go with MDF or plywood braces 4-6" wide on two sides of each sub, with 2-3x 2.5-3.5" long screws on each end of the brace.

Speaking of the Xcon's, I have a question on the Xmax spec: is it P-P or one way? Anybody know what the Xmech/Xsus is? I'm looking to put one either into ~2.5cf sealed or ~3.5cf ported @ 33hz, and putting 800 watts RMS into it. Thanks!

For what it's worth, I hit 146.3 with 2x MJ18's (the originals) off an Earthquake PHD3 (2kw RMS) in a 6.5cf sealed box in my 95 saturn wagon, stock electrical system too.

Really sucks to hear this Mark, I was just eyeballing a new sub too lol. Absolutely all of the best of luck in your new endevours Mark

I always wondered if cooling would be any better with a vented backplate too

I recommend posting more pics

Nice box, aren't you just a bit short on port area though? I would have figured 2x 12" IXL's needed just a bit more than 3x 4" ports... I've got about 45sqin for 2x MAW12's (4cf @ ~30hz) that'll be getting about 400 watts RMS....

Agreed, having done exactly what you want to do before (same size and tuning too), I can tell you I gained nothing.

It'll do very well in that setup. You might not even need that much polyfill. It'll handle the power great too.

There's a lot of time and effort in that port, NICE! I noticed last year a lot of the SPL guys here were doing that... does it help? (running a monstrous port)

Although I do appreciate the fact that Steve is making such high quality amps for a comparatively cheap price, I personally cannot justify spending $600 on a 4x100 amp when my tweeters and midbasses wouldn't even come to $300. Then again, the amp would probably last a long time, so in the long run, it might not be such a bad investment.

You must have been short on power, but the MJ18's dont really need more than ~600watts a piece to max them out... I did 146.3db in a saturn wagon (remember it's all plastic) with a pair of MJ18's in 3cf sealed each, off a 2kw amp (earthquake PH-D3), stock eletrical system too.

I like!

3cf is a bit small to get any useable increase in bass, even 4cf is on the small side. From what I remember, 4cf @ ~32hz will work though. Make sure you have enough port area too (at least a 5" diameter port)

I say give it a try. Worst case scenario, you're out $20 of MDF and some time, but will have a reusable enclosure in the future. 3cf + heavy acousta-stuff should get you the equivalent of about 4cf from what I recall. Though the Qtc will be a bit higher, I'm sure it'll be fine in car.