Viperoni

3-4cf for music, 4-6cf for home theatre.

Unless the IXL's have MUCH more Xsus than the MJ18's do, go with the MJ18's. The more cone area the better IMO.

Pics: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2346787/13 After more use, they do a good job My engine with it's polyurethane motor mounts and hole in my muffler really destroys any deep bass while driving, but I can really see these things being very good midbasses with excellent 80-150hz punch with a good dosage of power and a higher highpass frequency... I can't wait to get some power to em I threw my back out on wednesday, and havent been able to do any work on the stereo, plus I need to concentrate on my car club's car show coming next weekend.... so it'll be a while before I get the tweets mounted and singing, and another amp to run the mids, but it'll be worth the wait for sure. In the meantime, I'll be busy abusing the MLI65's with the ~50 watts RMS a piece that I have available

They do a good job, but I gotta listen to them for longer tommorrow before I can say anything further, besides that the midbass on these things is GOOD

Yep it's the Mach5 MLI65's. Overall they do a great job! Power handling is good, they take the ~50 watts RMS per channel no problem with the above EQ settings. Pretty much can't bottom them out with those settings either. I can see myself giving them between 70-120 watts RMS a piece with 30db/octave of highpass @ ~63hz. Speaking of more power, the only harshness that I'm hearing is from the amp clipping, they run very nicely by themselves, full range. I've gotta give them a more thorough, non-EQ'd listen tommorrow, but I'm very happy with them so far. I can imagine them having vicious response in the 80-150 range when given more power

Right now they're actually running full range, well there's a highpass at 50-63hz cutting out the bass, but that doesnt count I've got some heavy EQing happening (-3db @ 40hz, +1db @ 2khz and +5db@12khz) at my deck to make them sound better until I get my tweets installed... I'm actually thinking of ditching the super small sized 4ch amp I got for this setup and getting a bigger amp to power these mids and put my a/d/s on the tweets, I'm very impressed with the a/d/s's clarity, but the MLI65's could use more power to really come alive

Nicely done

2.5cf stuffed will work nicely, you might not even need the stuffing. Also, just run a single coil of the MAW15 off the amp, the sub will take it no problem.

So what are software models for? when its in a room doesnt it mean that i will have some sort of cabin gain? I completely disagree with models being useless. Though room nodes do alter FR quite a bit, since you can only design for what you want the system to do and hope it matches well with the changing venue, I'd say design the box to be relatively flat down to 40hz, or even 35hz. Most hiphop is above 40+hz, but some drops lower, so you might want that extra extension, but dont sacrifice much extra output above 40hz for lower end extension.

and that's what she said. Jokes man, the MJ18's really are huge Around 25lbs sounds right.

Oh yeah, if you're thinking about grabbing the US Acoustics 800f on eBay, do it, it's a great amp and the headroom will be good.

Apparently you haven't read my threads, but I had a pair of MJ18's in 3.25cf each running off an Earthquake PH-D3. That's 1000 watts RMS per sub. They handle it fine in that box. Stick to 600 watts RMS because they wont get much louder past that, just run hotter.

Oh, and I feel that I should clarify something here. I'm not in anyway disappointed in the MJ18's performance, moreso in that hitting big SPL numbers is a lot harder than making a slow car go faster I'm happy with the MJ18's and their performance, and the fact they've taken a beating very gracefully, and keep on asking for more

Ah well, it happens. It feels louder to me, but then again, I'm about 3 feet away from the meter, and it only said 143db... Also the ports were aimed up instead of backwards, so that definetely has something to do with it. In any case, the subs are out of the car... I dunno if they'll be going back in anytime soon, but maybe. In the meantime, I'm enjoying having my handling back, the car is so much more tossable now Also installed a pair of MLI-65's in the rear deck of my friends 99 accord 4dr, running as subs. Will make a thread on that in the future. Quick summary: Good bass. Actually scratch that, make that pretty darn good bass. Untouchable for $20 a pop.

No doubt, a pair of ported MAW15's would be quite nice back there I would really like to try an MJ18 in a big box, but I doubt it'd be used in a car

My saturn works alright, best I've done yet was only a 146 with a pair of 12s though. Maybe with such a small chamber for each 18, you'd be better off tuning higher.... maybe add another 5.5" port to each chamber too. It seems normal to me that loudest would be a few hz above tuning frequency - say 5-10... My box is tuned to about 58hz and is loudest at 65hz in my SC1. Edit: Are your ports internal or external? Yeah, I could imagine them needing to go a bit higher. The problem is that my deck has massive problems with skipping, and if I were to tune/burp higher, I highly doubt I could get a tone out long enough to register something on the meter. I'm not serious enough into this stuff to run a deck externally.... The port is half inside and half out. I want to keep the box volume as high as possible, but without suffocating the ports along the roof of the car.

I put a pair in the rear deck of a friends 99 accord sedan, they did well, but desperately need a highpass filter on them to control overexcursion. I could see them doing very well running 50-90hz though, with at an 18db/octave slope.

I had them in 3.25cf sealed a piece, and I recommend going larger. I'd say 4cf a piece. As for ported, definetely minimum 4.5cf. For car use, as big as possible and tune between 30-35hz. You won't be able to go too big in a car For home use, 6cf tuned to 30hz should do well on music, and something big like 10cf @ 18hz for HT usage should rock your foundation.

Sorry, 5.5" port for each sub, which is in it's own 3.25cf chamber. I figure it could be something up with the car's transfer function. Remember I have a completely plastic shell... it certainly does act wierd. I also had less people pushing on the doors and hatch, so that could have been a contributing factor as well. I can see my entire hatch panel vibrating when it's going off, so I have no doubt I'm leaking through it as well. Ah well, we'll see what the future brings. So far I'm really enjoying having my handling back

The box is 3.25cf per sub. 5.5" ID port, 10 inches long tuning to about 40hz. Burped 43, 45 and 47hz. 45hz was the loudest.

Welcome back

Yup, 3cf a peice at 30hz should do quite nicely

http://our6thplanet.com/garage.php?mode=vi...amp;image_id=92 Nothing much to look at, just 5.5" ID sonotube, 10" long. Should give me a 40hz tuning frequency for each sub. It feels louder, and there's another SPL comp on the May 6th weekend, so hopefully I'll be able to meter it then

Thanks guys, I'm hoping it'll be louder! heh Wish I could have the ports rear firing, but I'd need some PCV for that.... Aaron, running the subs near tuning frequency with 1kw a piece...yeah I got glue smell in probably 30 seconds, and you could feel the air/inside pole piece start to heat up too. But these things are built like TANKS, they're unphased after all I've put em through