tejcurrent

If it's a 4.3 v6 or 5.3 v8 I can do that. Seriously, email me at [email protected]. It's a lot louder, I'd say pretty close to the 4 18s though I can play it a lot longer. The amp just gets so hot with 95 degree temps and 1 ohm operation. I'm dying to buy another amp and run both subs at 2 ohms, maybe if I can sell some of these brackets I'll have extra cash Really stop by, bring whoever. There's a lot of rewiring to do now but it's 80-90 percent of what it will be volume wise. The VCM is niiiiice. I like it a lot more than my MLA. It's a pain to install from scratch, where the MLA was just plug and play, but the flexibility and digital display are awesome features. And it's a ton cheaper.

Aw, not a single comment? Oh well, more pics and a vid. I got it up and running, it works perfectly so far. I'm going to give it a week or so of daily driving before proceeding with powder coating and stuff. It's MUCH louder with the little bit I turned it up, but I had to turn the volume down because coffee was shooting 1-2 feet in the air out of my SEALED mug. I didn't want to get things nasty so the coffee has to go before cranking the volume again. I have never had it leak besides when it's on it's side, but I guess there was enough slosh action going on lol. Pics: I soldered the plugs, I've been using some adhesive lined shrink wrap from Fastenal, it works great. Industrial velcro, I used big enough pieces to allow me to move it around some if I change things in the future. I was considering the vcm and a separate volt meter for the back. Anyway. VCM Mounting to the back of the plexi Running the wire and soldering to the steering column Finished product before powering up Powered Before anyone starts busting balls, I have some more wiring to do tomorrow, and a lot of cleaning up. Things are not going to be left like this, but I wasn't going to leave it at the work site just for a half hour of zipping wires up. Again this is a prototype and has not been powder coated yet. I'm going to run it for a while and see if there's anything to improve on (so far there isn't). Sorry I didn't get more pics, it was 90 degrees with 100% humidity and a hot engine. I just wanted to get it done. About 1/4 inch between bracket and electrical box, though there's plenty of room above and below the alts to run wire. This took a lot of cussing and effort, so please at least criticize it if nothing else lol. My voltage dropped to 14.6 for a second once while at idle, but jumped back up to the 14.8 it's resting at hot. I'm ready to go out in the country and turn my amp up Vid just uploaded

I've finally got a working bracket complete! Please comment on here guys as I'd love to hear feedback. It's still not finalized, it's going on the vehicle for testing and if all goes well more will be made and powder coated. Since this is the prototype there was no reason to pay for powder coating yet. I need to read the forum rules and see if I'm stepping on any toes here but I'd like to offer these to the forum for a presale price of 3-350. This includes everything necessary for install. I've purchased alternator brackets before that required drilling mounting holes, or a degree in engineering to figure out since the directions were not narrated and it came in a dozen pieces. This is two large plates that only fit one way, and should take less than 1 hour for anyone with a wrench to install. On to pics: A front shot, again before powder coating: A back shot of the main piece: A side view of the edge. Pulleys added - important first step to make things easier for installation. Lock- nuts and spacers with grade 12.9 metric bolts. First alternator in place Clearance from pulley to alt is about 1 mm. This is necessary to give the best belt wrap. The plug for the alternator on this bracket should now be attached and the bracket bolted to the vehicle. It's dark and raining like crazy right now, so I'll post install pics tomorrow. Then it's just 10 minutes of bolting the extra alts in, and however long it takes to do the wiring. I'm using a XS Power VCM, which requires extra wiring. I started but my soldering gun tip was messed up, and I bent it the rest of the way in frustration. I spent almost 5 hours today searching for plugs for my alternators, only to end up crawling through the mud in a scrap yard chopping the harnesses out of wrecked GM trucks lol. I would have had this bracket on if it wasn't for my inability to find these plugs locally. I spent probably 5 hours searching today. I will have to find a supplier online and order some new ones I guess. Soldering in a small piece of extra wire to one plug XS Power will tell you not to splice their harnesses. I don't want to alter my factory wiring so I did it anyway. I split the two center wires, and added about 1 foot of my own. Soldered in, covered in heat shrink tubing, and zip tied back up. I started on the 2nd plug when my soldering iron died. More tomorrow, hopefully vids too. Again this is a lot more work than it looks like, so please post up some thoughts guys.

That's too bad it didn't work out as planned- it's always something! Still looking promising, do you have any previous scores to compare for this thread?

Coming from you those should be some good numbers! I'm tuned in

7.5 feet net at 36hz. I like the tuning pretty well, maybe a bit lower if you listen to c&s music a lot.

I had planned on emailing nick as was suggested but just wanted to know where you found this info? that'd it be pretty much the same I mean. Appreciate the info either way I talked to him when I bought my 21" Wardens and he told me the enclosure recommendations were the same. I use 7.5 feet net and 125 square inches of port per sub, and I like the way it sounds. Meters within .6db from 32hz to 45 hz. What amp are you using? honestly looking at a single ap1500d until the new 40.1 comes out then i'll be using one of those. I would have no hesitations using a 10ft box + large port area with that 1500, though you may or may not need to change things when you switch amps to one with around 3k watts more power.

I had planned on emailing nick as was suggested but just wanted to know where you found this info? that'd it be pretty much the same I mean. Appreciate the info either way I talked to him when I bought my 21" Wardens and he told me the enclosure recommendations were the same. I use 7.5 feet net and 125 square inches of port per sub, and I like the way it sounds. Meters within .6db from 32hz to 45 hz. What amp are you using?

Enclosure recommendations are the same as the DP. 7.5-10ft net with 12-16 square inches of port per foot.

With your vehicle it sounds like you just need to work on your enclosure. The audible difference between one ported and two sealed subs on the same power will not be that great, and you'll find that you spent a lot of money "upgrading" just to be let down a week or so later. Sounds like you really need to look into vehicles like hatch backs and SUVs.

Thank you. I figure at least doubling the power to the subs should make a difference- and it'll be running at 15 volts instead of 13

Template for the quad bracket -cad drawn and laser cut. A few adjustments needed made, but the real thing should be on my truck by monday or tuesday. Again, these are just templates, the real one will be much thicker steel: Thoughts?

x2 Or fiberglass + resin.

I built a box for a alpine type-x 12 with stock charging and barely rms in my wife old malibu. Had no trouble doing 140, and 138 on thug motivation 101 - all legal sealed t/l #s, and I'd expect better results from the Q. I wanted to put in a BL and 2kw and bassrace the 39.9 class, but my wife didn't care about it enough and wanted her trunk back. Often what sounds loud and what meters loud aren't exactly the same though. I would just build a good daily box and hope for the best. If you don't get the numbers you wanted you can always rebuild a new box or work on the one you have.

Please respond when you get a chance, it will help a lot. Some h/o alts are more likely to fail. I've installed brand new alternators (one being Powermaster) and had an issue even brand new. My brother had 2 die on his truck before he got one that worked for him. I wouldn't rule it out until you get the dmm and check things. You're talking about $20 or so for a dmm, which is cheaper than upgrading the wire alone.

x2 plus ballgasms.... who doesn't like the feeling of their testicles dancing around at 140+ db @ 30hz? 150db+ FTW!! x2 150+ @ 30hz is fun for sure Nothing like that feeling of the air vibrating in your chest as you breath. It's fun, and nice to design and create a system yourself. That's why people stay on the forums. Few people build a system then use it till they sell the car or 10 years later, within months they have planned or started the next upgrade.

Very impressive, that's an interesting sub/port setup too.

Where are you located? If your in SC you're within a few hours. I dropped off my bracket for auto cad and laser cutting. They're going to get back with me on pricing but within the month I should have my quads on. I got a sweet price on 1.5" threaded rod for bracing, so the new boxes should be braced nicely Hopefully I'll have this done whenever you decide to come through this way. I can get better pricing for buying more of these quad brackets at once. If I did a pre-sale/group buy on here would anyone be interested in a high quality, low cost quad bracket? We're talking half the price of other companies, and I'm all about saving myself some money. Not trying to compete with any brands, just get a few people in on like a group buy of these to get a low cost. They could be modified to fit 2 or 3 alternators I believe.

Take a DMM, or go to a shop like Best Buy that has installers with DMMs. It's only 20 bucks for a cheap one so I'd buy one- they're good to have around. Check your voltage at the amp when its playing, preferably around the volume where it shuts off. If it's below 12.5 or so you really need to upgrade your charging. If not I'd look into other amps. My experience is that by the time those amps put out decent power they're starting to clip, though others swear by them. Also you say you have a h/o alt, what brand? How old? If you can post up what your actual voltage is at the amp on heavy bass notes there are more suggestions we may be able to offer. Good luck.

Lol, that's all you. I think you already told them that- and from what I saw your AAs absolutely would. For the new build I'm thinking two separate boxes again, either 7.5 or 8 ft net with 115 sq of port per box. That would let me quickly go from 1 to 2 subs, with boxes I could handle alone. Still crunching numbers on them.

Pretty much. One of the guys at the shop was pretty cool and actually has used some good equipment. Everyone else made it pretty obvious they don't really know what they're talking about. I'm not the kind of person to go to shops and act like a smart ass, but I hate the kind of installers that treat every customer like a retard. I bought my h/u from this shop, and the installer told me converting my vehicle to double din was impossible. He told me American Bass amps were crap (I tried to tell him it was AB not American Pro) and that was pretty much all he had to say. There's nothing wrong with not having a large system or great equipment, but when you're around car audio all day and still have no clue. Man I can't wait to turn things up! Oh I forgot to post- I got a new table saw to replace the one that was stolen! Hopefully I'll be doing box work in a week or so

I played Jeezy- White girl for a minute today for some guys at a local shop. No one really commented, except for one guy who said he had seen wardens in a club before. I said it may have been large speakers but doubtfully wardens, and he assured me they were wardens in folded horns After he stuck his head in my door and had the air blow his hair and shirt around he told me my system sounded like what 2 good 15s on 1000 watts sounded like 15 years ago lol. I needed RCAs, but there's a good reason why I never go to shops anymore if I can help it.

6th order with 30 18s and 100,000 watts? Good luck I do hate to see threads started with nothing more than a goal. It's like if I posted "I'm going to be banging 30 super models on my private island- keep an eye out!" I'm not saying it couldn't be done, but if my neighbor said it I'd just sort of be like

You are correct. I've had people cut some cuts on a panel saw and cut them crooked as hell. I mean almost 1/2 inch shorter on one end than another. I'll never do that again.

The sealed Q will probably be easiest to make sound good, while it can take several tries to get the sound you want from a ported enclosure. Audible output shouldn't be too different from one to another, though that's really install dependent. From your music style though the sealed Q will be a good choice. Also with a ported BL it can sound good, but you'll need more power to make it worth choosing over the Q. Have you considered two sealed 10" SSDs? And what amp will you be using?