tejcurrent

The pre-sale on the quad brackets ends this Sunday. This is an incredible value so anyone interested sign up asap. Troy

Yes it will. The actual make/model/year would help narrow it down, but from my testing it should be a great fit.

I'm just outside of Myrtle Beach, and you? I'll be going to some competitions in Sumter, Florence, and Georgetown once I get things settled down, if that's a bit closer to you. Florence Do you go to the Competition only shows, or what organization? I'm looking at about another month or so before things are settled down enough to start going to some shows.

Just a small update- all brackets will include a Gates HD belt. I want to offer the most dependable product you can buy, so this is just another small part of that.

Thanks, no new TL scores. Huge audible difference so I'm hoping for some decent gain. I wont know until I get out to a show maybe next month. No sweat, it mounts really well there. I only have 4 XS Power batteries at the moment. I had a d3100 under the hood but I like the look of the smaller 3400. I then have 3100s in back. I intend to go up to at least 7 or 8 batteries, but right now my voltage sits so well I'm working on other things.

I believe your car either had the CS 130 or 144. I'm still working on things but I want to do ad244 alternators. Because I have no finished product I don't know the final cost, but in the $225 price range ready to bolt on. One issue is that if I design the bracket for one case alternator, the user can't keep a smaller case alt because there's a good chance it would change the belt size enough to cause issues. You could mess with pulley sizes but that could effect the alternators output. If you need something now and don't mind moving things around I would just order from a company you are familiar with. In a few weeks I will have time to work on the bracket for your vehicle, but it could be little while before one is ready to ship. I personally don't like relocating a lot of stuff, so when it can be avoided I try to. I'll post some pictures of how things will fit once I get the bracket to a point where I'm satisfied. It will just make install more straight forward for the average person. I'm not familiar with Iraggi's bracket unless it's the one pictured in your link, but the setup I have in mind will be different.

Still in the works, I initially was working on one, but it would require relocating (I believe it was) the washer fluid reservoir. I want the brackets to stay near bolt-on, with very little extra work, so that got put on the back burner while I'm finishing a few other projects. If you're in no rush I'll have one out in the not-too-distant future, but I can't give a set timeline right now. If you're in a hurry please email me at [email protected] and we can talk about it a bit more.

Once I get a few more products in line, I'd really like to have a few things to bring up there with me to let a few people take a look at them. The brackets I have right now will fit basically any GM full size truck running on gas from 99 and up. I believe your engine looks like the one in the link I'm providing, in which case the answer is a definite yes. Link

Wow you are close, I believe we've talked before a while back, maybe a month or so. If you want to meet up one day just let me know- I only live 10 minutes from Carolina Forest. Sure thing, much appreciated.

I'm just outside of Myrtle Beach, and you? I'll be going to some competitions in Sumter, Florence, and Georgetown once I get things settled down, if that's a bit closer to you.

Hi, I am working on brackets for several vehicles- especially older V8 trucks/suvs. To give you a bit more information, I live in South Carolina, which is Chevy country. Every bracket takes hours of designing and testing on each vehicle, so I must have the vehicle locally to make one. Because it is easier for me to get my hands on GM vehicles and they seem to dominate the competitions locally they will be taking priority. I have a bracket I'm almost finished with for the 350 in a 1996 2500, but I've found that there are many different configurations in the 350 between 90 and 99. Some have the factory alternator position on the drivers side, others the passenger, and there are some other engine component location differences between years. To determine if I have or am working on something for your vehicle just shoot me an email at [email protected] with the engine/model/year you are looking for. A picture of the engine bay wouldn't hurt either- but isn't necessary. I may not have it now, but I'm definitely working on making brackets to fit many more needs. I'll be starting another thread tonight for people to ask for the bracket they need in particular. If several people ask for the same thing I will focus on making one for that vehicle instead of other projects. Once my website is running there will be an ongoing pre-order section, so that when a product is about to come out people can get a nice savings in the neighborhood of 30% off. Thank you! I've considered some cars but most people save the high-powered setups for suvs, jeeps, and trucks. If there's a market for any particular vehicle I may explore it- I've had several requests for the Saturn Ion now, so that may be around the corner

I've used oil based polyurethane on mdf as a base, then oil based paint. It's good to do several coats, sand smooth, then do a final coat so it looks nice/glossy.

Been doing good, considering rebuilding my box soon but I'm really tied up making multiple alt brackets for gm trucks, from Tahoes to S-10's since no one seems to make a 4.3 bracket. I'm also working on a a low-rpm h/o GM alternator line. I finally got all 4 alts up and running well in my vehicle- you can see some of the pics a few threads down in the 2 21" warden 1000.1 thread. I need to meter but I think with a bit of tuning and box tweaking I'll be near my goal. Back on topic- have you tried countersinking the all thread? I've used 1/4" steel plates fastened from inside with a hole cut large enough to tighten the nut from the outside, also just mdf squares. Not the best way but better than nothing! Anyway, it looks sickly loud, what #s are you doing at the dash now? I didn't know Steve was out of RD now, changes their image for the better to me

Lol, Thanks. Theres still alot left to be done. I think with the right song and box together there is a 133ish in that. Na, I switched from American Bass. Now running D9's. haha yeah, blew the fuck apart! looking into welding a cage or something. Are those amps doing better for you? I've just been scared of the c/s. A cage would probably be in order if you're having problems like that- unless maybe you want to dump an ass of resin in.

I'm with Cheese, add like a dimple to the post that goes into the amp. If you have a slight recess where the screw sinks into it the straight smooth piece will be less likely to fall out of the amp.

GREAT job, forgot how loud your setup was. What amps were you running (500.1s ?) That's one broken ass box lol, and still doing great #s

Over the past year alone I have been through almost a half dozen systems in the constant quest to find a sub that was not only loud, but sounded decent doing so. I've owned Alpine, Kicker, and many other brands in between. I would only purchase one sub at a time in order to decide if it was worth buying more than one, and I never bought more than one. I had never owned an 18 inch woofer, and having owned 10s, 12s, and 15s, I wanted to try the next biggest step, especially since my 99 Yukon had the room to accomodate the system. After I had placed my order for an 18" dual 2ohm BTL with cooling, 3rdMagnet, and HiXmCoil, I began to beef up my electrical system in anticipation. I already had a single Hifonics Brutus bxi2006d, and figured it should be sufficient after electrical upgrades (I found out later I was wrong). I put in a 200amp Powermaster Alternator and an Optima yellowtop to keep the starting battery company. I Ran 1/0 guage to the back after doing the 'big 3' upgrade, and put in a 3rd battery under the rear seat. I wanted to have the box built so I could have the sub in as soon as it arrived, so I started to build that as well. I decided to go for the simplest box I could make, so I just made a rear firing box with 8 cubic feet net tuned to about 35hz. Here is a picture of the sub in the enclosure. I only used a single sheet of mdf for the faceplate, and you can see it flexed enough to actually blow the rubber gasket from under the sub. This was a picture of me holding the sub to give you an idea of how large it is. This is how big it is compared to my alpine type-x 12 About 10 days after I placed my order it came in the mail. That night I had it in my yukon and started playing it. The hit it delivered amazed me, it was sooo accurate compared to the L7 15 I had just before, and even rivaled the detail and clarity of the type-x. I listened to some rock and enjoyed the way it sounded, then pulled out some Young Jeezy to see what it would do. WOW, at a low volume it started tickling my nose and shaking things. As I cranked it up it became uncomfortable to sit in the car. I did my first hair trick that evening, and was very happy to say the least. After metering this setup I found out it was hitting about 148dbs @ 42hz, and still 145.x @ 32hz. The strength on the deep notes was amazing to say the least, so about a month or 2 later I put in my order for my 2nd btl 18, and ordered a 2nd bxi2006d. After asking around I decided to make 2 CRX style boxes (7.5cubes net each tuned @ 35hz) so that I could remove one at a time for work. I also used 3/8" bolts for the terminals to prevent leaks and make a good solid connection that I could interchange the connection from 1ohm, to 4ohms easily. I tested just the one btl I already had in the new box and my score went up to about 149.x @ 42hz. In the building process I ran out of carpet, so I only covered one of the boxes, and as soon as the 2nd sub came in I put it in there. With 4kwatts rms going to 2 BTLs, it was by far the loudest vehicle I'd ever owned, and the loudest 2 subs I've ever heard. With my window all the way down I was able to get a good hair trick going, and figured it was time to get metered. At 42hz I was hitting just under 151dbs. To say the least I was pleased, but when I found out I was doing 149.8 @ 32hz, I was very happy with the increase. The lows are so strong you can watch your vision blur and feel the air move in and out of your lungs. These things really pounded. This is by far the best setup I've ever had, and aside from 1 or 2 others that cost in the 5 digits, it's one of the best I've ever heard. I know, the cars dirty. This is a really bad image of how I set up the boxes, just with the subs where I plan on making them in the future.

Very nice, glad to see it back in the line up. I've had so many people ask me for lower power/cheaper subs in the last year- this definitely fits the bill. I'm waiting to see a huge setup with some stupid number of these for their price.

I'd ask what your thoughts were, but I'd like to actually mess with it some more up around bbuy. I got some wiring cut and soldered for tomorrow, but I wont do the real work till tomorrow probably.

Thank you. I hope it happens sometime soon, but with my truck taking a bit of a back burner it'll probably be a while. I'm really loving the sound of 2 1000.1s @ 1 ohm, but I would want at least 7 or 8 batts before I made that upgrade. I think if I can redo some things I MAY be able to fit 5 alts on that side, let alone the other side of the engine. It would be pretty nice to have 1000 amps at idle, though most likely overkill.

2 18" Wardens and Two Mmats. Doing port on driver side soon and adding more power. Testing has been sketchy at best, the heat has been sabotaging my scores in a big way so yeah..... Looking forward to future pics/vids. The heat has been rediculous here, it's either 95 or so or raining, and it only rains enough to make things humid instead of cool.

Nice! What amp(s)? Did you get any numbers before hand? Any links to the build? Regardless of how light your wallet is that's still an accomplishment.

Short video before my camera died. I'm very happy with this setup, though I'm getting the inch for more cone area and more power now that I have the electrical for it I need to get this metered as is and see what sort of gain I have from this upgrade, build a new box or 2, then I'll look at more power and such.

I would love to get them there, but mine doesn't have them. They said they could order them for 30 a piece, but I want quite a few, so we're talking an awful lot of money. I don't mind spending 10 bucks, but 30 each? Found one website with the right plug, but they still want $20. I'm trying to find a good website with this plug in 2 wire or 4 wire form: http://www.naparts.net/Charging-Starting-Systems/AlternatorsGenerators/Painless-30705-Alternator-p8203534.html

That may have been a better choice. I used Rustoleum lens paint- like for blacking out tail lights. It allowed me to recoat until I got the amount of tint I wanted, and I figure it wont discolor like cheap tint. I wasn't sure what % to use or I probably could have stopped by my local tint shop for their scraps but oh well. It's done now, but I might redo it down the road if I run out of other things to work on