tejcurrent

I can be reached at [email protected], I try to respond throughout the day but sometimes I get so busy I just sit down and answer emails/pms in the evenings all at once. I'm still waiting on the local to come back with his Impala that I was using to make a template, as soon as I can get him to drop his car off a few more hours I should have a working bracket to test out. I'll keep you posted as soon as there is some progress.

I know exactly what you mean about a few mm making the difference. I bet I've installed and removed the brackets I'm making now about 6 times each, so I start to see where things are a pain on the user side. I'm doing my best to make sure installation of my brackets is easy for the end user, or at the least can be done by one guy with a few wrenches. Thanks again for your patience, I'll keep updating this forum as products become available.

Unfortunately most likely. I wish I could say it would be sooner but the testing I put into each bracket is time consuming. Once I have a template made I do the CAD drawing and CNC out a metal prototype. Even after the first one is tested on the vehicle I like to do several more days of testing in different situations to make sure there is nothing that could be improved on. This really slows down how quickly I can design and produce new brackets, but I stand behind each one I make 100%. I can send you a PM as soon as I have a better idea of how long it will be before a bracket for your car is ready to ship out, again sorry for the wait. Troy

I've been responding within 24 hours to everyone, if you didn't get a PM or email my mistake, I'll just post here. I'm working on a bracket for your Astro, though I'm not sure how many extra alts will fit. The Safari I'm using to get the template wont be available again for a few weeks, but I'll keep you posted as soon as I get something for you. I apologize again for any delay. I'm not sure on a time line on the Buick, I'm working on a dozen different brackets and once those are in production and tested I will start working on it. Thanks again everyone.

Are you just competing or is this your daily driver? Do you know the idle output of your alternators? I'd go by those ratings if this is your daily driver, unless you turn the volume down when the engine is below 1500 rpms. I would get the 4500s and upgrade your charging more if necessary, most likely a good starting point would be adding a 4th 3800. The 4500 would give you more headroom, so while you may have to turn the gain down, you wont be turning the amp up to the point of clipping to get that last bit of power. If you aren't sure and want to save the money the 3500s would still do a great job, I'd just make the box on the larger side of recommendations. I wasn't expecting the output they had with just rated power, just keep it clean.

Well I don't have an O-scope and there isn't one located less than 1.5-2 hours away so it's not exact, but I get by. When matching the output voltage of the h/u to the amp I have a long way to go- but I don't intend to turn it up more than it is. The subs aren't sweating and I've ran more power than this in the past, so I'm not worried.

Either day is good for me, though depending on how things work out I may be testing out the dual/triple bracket on my truck by then, so it may be a bit turned down. Hopefully I'll have the quad kit back on by then.

Thank you! Thanks again, I'll probably only ever sell them as plain or black powder coating, I really don't like a bunch of colors. I'm actually working on some aluminum pulleys right now, should clean it up just a bit more and go better with the black.

Here are my new flat black alts with matching flat black bracket: I stopped by a local shop, and long story short there were a dozen people there by the time I left. I turned my gain up more to allow for my voltage to fluctuate in the 14-14.5v range on really bass-heavy songs. I'm getting some nice movement from the subs now, honestly the more power I give these susbs the more I like them. I was going to post a few vids and my camera died, I'll make some more Monday or Tuesday.

Hi, thanks for the great questions. Honestly I've spent quite a bit of time testing numerous suppliers and manufacturers, and I can answer some of your more brand specific questions better through PM. I've used several Delphi, Renard, and Transpo parts and they have been holding up extremely well. These particular alternators have a standard size output post, with the rectifier using 65 amp avalanche diodes. There will be a "Heavy Duty" version available with 8mm copper output post and 70 amp avalanche diodes. The price will go up $50, but will include a 2 year warranty. The voltage regulators are heavy duty Transpo units, set to 14.9 volts. The bearings are double sealed and meet or exceed OEM quality. The stators are double wound, basically improving output throughout the rpm band- not just top end. I wouldn't offer the warranty I do if I didn't believe in the quality of the parts I'm using, and the durability of the overall product. A little history: I have used brackets and alternators from other companies throughout the years, with mixed results. One company in particular I spent thousands building my dream electrical system with, only to install it and be extremely disappointed. My alternators and bracket died on me regularly, leaving me literally stranded beside the highway more than a half dozen times. I spent hundreds just on belts and pulleys and bolts that broke, and lost countless hours of time at work and with my family. I set out to build a better product- that people could afford. I have 2 kids under 2 years old, and the summers here average 90+ degrees. I run these exact alternators in my vehicle, on my quad bracket, knowing that if I was to break down they'd be sitting in an oven while I waited for help or worked on the car. I believe in the dependability and output of my products, and I stand behind my work.

If the voltage is dropping from 14.4v to 13.8, other than doing the big 3 upgrade your friend may have no real need to spend more money.

It's a smaller pulley, I believe about 17% smaller. It's difficult to tell looking at the top two alternators, but the smaller alternator has a factory sized pulley while the one on the left has the pulley I'm using on these alternators.

I just updated the pre-sale section so it is available there, here is close up picture of the alternator as well: Buy an alternator here

Thanks so much. I've been trying to find a girl to help me with a hair trick, unfortunately when my wife is around she has the babies with her and I don't want to turn things up with them nearby. I'm excited to meter again to see what sort of gain there was from turning things up, I know these subs can take an awful lot more power than I'm able to give them for comps. My old camera captured the flex really well, and the speakers sounded drowned out by the bass. My new camera is completely opposite, it records sound better but shows very little flex. Thanks again.

You may need both, it is recommended to have an extra battery with 2000+ watts. If you are not 100% sure on how to set your gains properly I would upgrade your charging system first.

Thanks to all who participated, the sale is over. Brackets will start shipping out as soon as payments are received in full.

Well im failrly new to here but have lots of experience over the last 24 years . I have had problems with the issues of headligts dimming and voltage drops during some bass hits . I tried all the tricks, Batcaps, Capicators,Added another battery . I really found out that the best bet is to get an alternator that handles anywere from 135 to 220 amps, but at idle speed it puts out at least 135 amps .Ive spent hundreds of dollars, when all i really needed was an alternator that puts out more amps at idle speed. when you do the alternator upgrade, you will need at that point to also update your wireing because your stock factory wireing most probably wont handle it.several ways to this.you either tale the stock wireing off and redo the wireing with 1 guage or you add more wires in at least 4 guage or bigger to the exsisting alternator wireing.I have had good luck and no problems either way i wired like this . You can also go here to buy these amps, there really good and reasonable . The Biggest And Baddest 100% USA Built High Output Alternators - DC Power Engineering you will be hardpressed to find a better price for there product ,I got mine for 365 bucks several years ago and its stil runnign strong ,it puts out 135 amps at idle and does 180 amps total , the 135 amps at idle is at 1,400 RPM. Im running 3,000 watts (2 amps) and my dimming issues with one battery is no more .If i want to go to a higher level, I can add a bigger amp without any issues. But im happy were im at, You can spend up to 400 bucks easily with some good batteries and the cable for the battery addition . I wised up and just bought the alternator and i have never looked back . The problem that most people do is buy these big amps and super subwoofers , then they have electrical issues. most part throwing money on all of these can run a 1,000 bucks if you do the whole total package , for under or around 400 bucks and 20 bucks in wireing upgrade to the alternator will solve 90% of your electrical issues. Plus i believe while i cant prove it is that it makes your battery last longer .Without this alternator ,i could go through a battery evey 2 years , The one i have now has been going strong for over 3 years and i just had it load tested and its testing like it did when it was brand new .I think it causes a lot less less strain and drainage on the battery . I think your stock alternator on your delta 88 is around 70 amps , so i think you will definately need to upgrade it . If your alternator can't keep up with things now adding a battery is sort of like a band-aid. It will help keep you from killing things, but if you're drawing more power than the alternator can produce you will start to drain your batteries. Then the alternator has to work to power the current needs as well as recharge the batteries. It's often better to start at the source, you may find you don't need an extra battery. DC Power and Mechman are both great companies from my experience.

^this. Both sound good, one is able to handle more power and is Fi's SQ driver. More power generally means more output, though not always, meaning if you can give a Q with BP option twice the power you should expect it to be a bit louder. It should also sound a bit better, but install is going to determine everything. This is why people ask for the details of your setup, answering a few questions is necessary for people to give you a good answer.

Thanks a lot- I appreciate the offer. I personally have plenty of amp and then some to test in my vehicle, but it's a bit of a pain to disconnect 3 extra alternators to test one. I believe I already have another test vehicle with a saz-3000 lined up. We're going to test one alt on his truck in the next few days. Feel free to stop by or give me your number, just let me know.

Today is the final day of the pre-sale. Anyone who still wants in on it just send me an email to [email protected], those who have paid a deposit I will be sending you an email with the final price including shipping. Thanks, Troy [email protected]

If the alternator is on the passenger side then yes. I have a dual bracket I'm going to be testing in the next week or so once the test vehicle has some maintenance finished. The dual bracket is designed to work with the large case alternators listed above, lining them straight across the top of the engine. I think it looks great, but you can be the judge when I post pics soon. You can also just swap out your factory alternator for a h/o unit.

Just 3 days left- those interested please go ahead and place your order before the normal pricing is in place. I am building alternators to go with the brackets. I am still in the testing process, I don't want to say final specs until I'm finished, but I've been getting excellent results. So far at 600 engine RPMS I'm seeing an average of 165-180 amps HOT, but I don't have enough draw in the test vehicle to fully test the alternator. I'm going to guess around 230-240 range at highway speed, but I need a lot more testing to give definite numbers. Basically you can get 165+ idling amps and 230+ peak amps at the introductory price of $325 per alternator . These are hand built to order and will come with a 'birth sheet'.

Adjust your amp as necessary. It depends on many factors from your amp to your enclosure to your own abilities to detect problems. If you have to ask lean towards the conservative side- your equipment will last longer that way.

lol, just a bit of a drive. Very nice car all the same.

I'm sorry, that is a totally different engine than I was thinking. At the moment I don't have a bracket for your vehicle on hand- if you were close enough for me to look at it we could see what can be done. Thanks. Troy