tejcurrent

Looks like you've got some beef in there. You should put up those #s when you meter it. nice looking box, like the sub flush mount.

2000watts on anything should be pretty loud in the right setup. There's really no way to throw out a # (db wise), even if you gave your vehicle, box size/tuning/amp info which would be very helpful in even hinting at a definite answer. 2 18s on 2000 watts should be loud regardless, given the right enclosure and some planing.

I apreciate it. I might take you up on one of those for something else, but I really want one amp per sub. Plus each coil is 2 ohms, so if I got a pair per coil that might be good, but that's going back to many more amps, and I really just want 1 per sub. Could you PM me about a price on those sundowns? Thanks. maybe one of those 100.4s too..

I was considering 1 amp per coil and getting 2 smaller amps, but I would much rather have just one amp per sub. When I have both of whatever amp I decide on it would also be nice to bridge the amps to give a single btl in a box built just for comps somwhere in the 8k-10kwatt range. Don't know how it'll handle it, but I know it'll have to throw up some good #s with that kind of power.

x2, 'tricks' the sub into thinking it's in a bigger box. If you decide to go w/ it you can pick up a huge bag of it at walmart in the crafts section-it's the stuff they put in quilts for stuffing. Fairly cheap too.

since they're sealed are you using polyfill? if so that should stop any vibration noise you'd have anyway, but I would take theabunais advice on wiring outside the box.

I'm sorry I didn't quite understand what you meant, but I think you mean will you hear any noise from your port. Because of the size of the port you really shouldn't have much/any audible port noise imo. Only box I ever had port noise in just had way too small a port area. I have ~230sqinches of port and when the rear doors are open and I'm looking right at it I can't hear any port noise-and since you'll have a little larger port you should be fine. I did router the edge of the port to bevel the edges, so if you can do this I would. I think you'll be fine.

I'm sorry I didn't quite understand what you meant, but I think you mean will you hear any noise from your port. Because of the size of the port you really shouldn't have much/any audible port noise imo. Only box I ever had port noise in just had way too small a port area. I have ~230sqinches of port and when the rear doors are open and I'm looking right at it I can't hear any port noise-and since you'll have a little larger port you should be fine. I did router the edge of the port to bevel the edges, so if you can do this I would. I think you'll be fine.

x3

The MM4k.1 was in my original list, but the subs I have are dual 2ohm, so that narrows it down to those amps that put out at 1ohm. I was going to get one goliath from another member, but I wasn't able to get it when it was for sale and lost the info on who to contact when the board was erased. Since I've been running hifonics for about a year or so now I'm ok with how the brutus' I have works. I feel like it's not putting out the power it should, and it certainly isn't stable below 1ohm, but for the price it was ok. I'll have to look into that one a bit more. The more people I talk to the more I like the sound of the RF-just not the price; but I'm sure it goes back to the saying that you get what you pay for. And by all means throw out all the suggestions you can, I appreciate it.

I bought 2 subs a few months ago, can I get a sticker for each still? Do I need to send 2 envelopes, or just one? My brother wants to stick one on his 4-wheeler too (country, I know) are extra stickers available for purchase? Thanks.

Then it's unanimous! After some of the cactus sounds stuff that's wayyyyy over the budget I'm setting the rockford was my favorite too, only that it's also the most expensive one I listed above Well, guess after a month or so of playing with the ss 10k I'll get the rf. I can get access to the memphis and quantum w/o having to spend $, so I'll compare those first. Let me throw out some prices to give a good idea of where I'm coming from as well. RF 4k- $1100-1300 refurb/new offline SS 10000- 700-800 used offline SS 6500- 600-700 used offline AB VFL 400.1 600-700 used offline dd z1/z2 $950-1200 used offline Memphis 4k - $1200 new w/warranty local dealer Quantum 4k - $700 new local dealer DB Drive 4k - $850 new local dealer My thoughts are it's great to have a warranty, but it's always the day after it expires that something happens, or doesn't cover whats wrong. theabunai I narrowed it down to those 2 amps (RF vs Memphis) before, but as you can see they're in the same price range compared to the others that are hundreds cheaper. I decided the SS 10k to try first because it's rated to do 5k @ 14.4, and it's one of the cheapest. Price difference from 2 ss 10k to 2 RF 4k is 600-1200 dollars cheaper no matter how you look at it, but performance wise I don't know. I decided against the mepmhis orignially because I talked to a local dealer and they told me they had 8 malfuntioning memphis amps returned in the month of january alone. Are there any other suggestions that I didn't list, or any thoughts on the ones I have? thanks again. Thanks.

What kind of car was that in?

wood screws have just always been good for me (and yes, coarse). They're the fastest easiest thing to put in.

I've always just used wood screws- 1"1/2 should be fine. Put them in the holes in the rubber gasket, but you will have to screw through the ring as you put it, but they'll go right in once you have them straight.

I am considering getting the ss 10000d or z1, can you tell me a little bit about the difference? I'm trying to put between 4-5k per btl, but I'm not sure which to get. You seem to have some hands on experience. I can get 2 10000ds for $14-1500, or z1s for $19-2000 a pair. The RF 4000s I'm looking out are about 2200 a pair. What was the difference between those two amps? I'm really looking for the best 'bang for the buck' so any info will help. Thanks in advance.

If you have a router and can bevel the inside edge of that port I'd make it more like 22.5 because my bit that rounds the edges takes off almost a 1/2inch. If you don't plan on doing that then you're fine with 22. The whole port is really just adding one more board to get the top of the port (in this case 46.5x22). With the port 5"hx22dx46.5= 2.96cubes of port from the internal dimensions of 46.5x19.5x34.5= 18.1cubes internal gives you a net around 15.14, then just subtract the sub displacement and whatever bracing you decide to put in. Too lazy to look up the bl displacement, but I figure the 2 subs is somewhere near 1/2ft, so that will leave you with about 14.5 after bracing. I'm sure I'm leaving something out, but that's a pretty close estimate imo. I agree 100% on that double baffle, I said something about that in the post that messed up last night. Go to the pic of my single btl box that faced back and look close at the surround- because of how bad it flexed with single baffle it actually would blow the rubber gasket out weird under high pressure-now that box had some flex. Good luck, be sure to post some pics on how it goes!

Yesterday I wrote a very indepth and lengthy response, but because of poor internet connection and the time it took to write this lengthy post the connection timed out and I gave up for the night. This is the very brief replacement. I'd listen to scott, 22" for your port. I'd do 48x21x36, and you sould be fine. I can make you a cut sheet if you want, just let me know. I don't have program to do this anymore because of computer problems, but I can make you up a sketch or something if you want. Good luck

I think if you made one box 48wx18hx42L you'll still have about 6 inches or so between the seats and the doors (You should probably measure that though). What year tahoe? I'm basing these numbers off my 99 yukon, so if yours is newer there might be a difference. If you make your port 5" high across the bottom of the box, and the entire width of the box you'll get about 233sqin of port, which should be good. I believe you'll want to make the port about 28" long to get a tuning freq of somewhere in the 32hz range, don't take my word on that yet let me run that through a few calculators first. (or if someone else could). I believe you'll end up with a net around 14-14.25ft^3 after port and sub displacement, which at 7ft per sub that should be good, tuned around 32hz you should really get those lows good too. again, let me check on those numbers this afternoon, I just figured that up real quick and I'd like to check the accuracy of my statement on the port length. Hope this helps give you a general idea of the size though.

I don't know what the difference is between the btl and bl for box recommendations, but I know the btls were 5-8cubes each with 12-16sqin of port per cubic foot, tuned between 30 and 35hz for daily driving. I'd shoot in those perameters. Look in the 'anyone running 2 18s' post for some pics and more info. When I find the plans from my boxes I'll put them up with the cut sheet if you want, but I think I'd tune a little lower. Do you want one box for both subs or two seperate boxes? Do you go to comps, because my boxes are a little over the window line and that is not good for some comps. what kind of music do you listen to? Are you willing to sacrifice the rear of your tahoe entirely?

End point - Scott is one crazy bastard for selling a sub that performs at this level for the price he list them at..... Don't tell scott that!

I don't know what the difference is between the btl and bl for box recommendations, but I know the btls were 5-8cubes each with 12-16sqin of port per cubic foot, tuned between 30 and 35hz for daily driving. I'd shoot in those perameters. Look in the 'anyone running 2 18s' post for some pics and more info. When I find the plans from my boxes I'll put them up with the cut sheet if you want, but I think I'd tune a little lower. Do you want one box for both subs or two seperate boxes? Do you go to comps, because my boxes are a little over the window line and that is not good for some comps. what kind of music do you listen to? Are you willing to sacrifice the rear of your tahoe entirely?

I only have 2 layers of 3/4 on the face and one layer the rest of the box, and it doesnt seem to have any problems at all. 2 x 3/4 should do well. Are you using 4" PVC or 6"? I've got both sizes and I'm thinking about using 3 pieces of 6" instead of 4 4" with a face plate on either side of the ports cut and routered to give flared ends. What would you recomend?

I just tried to get as much space as possible. My seat line is just over 22", so I made my boxes so I could see over them. The rear area is just over 48" from tire well to well (where it rises), so I just made each box 24 inches. I made it deep enough that I can put gallons of paint between the port and the door, I think 36", but I can't remember. I'll have to measure to be sure. I'm trying to figure out how to get one box for both subs to take up half the back area and still give them 5cubes net each after sub and port displacement, but I think I'll have to use pvc or aeros to do that. Either that or a slot that'd be pretty small. I'd get a lot more space if I had just one big box instead of the two seperate, but I like being able to leave one in when I need to haul something, and I couldn't get the help to carry a single box that big in and out of my car as often as I pull them out. I just measured the area and worked with what I had. From talking to people on this forum I was told by others that the sub up port back was better, and from switching boxes I found that to be true. Every time I talk to someone with an ext cab they tell me they had good luck sub&port up. After displacement for the sub and port each one is getting about 7.5cubes net, give or take. I found some calculators to be helpful, but they give you different lengths depending on what side you consider the width and length. I don't know which is right, so I just found a medium and went with it. I believe I used this one, but watch what happens when you interchange the w and h of the port. I can find the formula for you, but if you can find a better calculator I'd try that. http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 I believe I ended up going with (interior dimensions) 5"hx22.5"wx15.5"l for the port and I like how it sounds. I chose the slot because I have a router and can bevel the edges (though I only did the inside of the port on these boxes) and it seemed easier than cutting pvc and what goes into using it.

OK, I think I finally have a good enough signal to upload everything. F-in image shack must be having server problems, cause nothing wants to upload. Here is when I had one sub, facing back. I found out I gained about 1.5dbs from changing the box style to what I have in the following pics. And a pic of my goofy ass holding it when it came in. Shows you how big it is, I'm somewhere between 5'11 and 6' depending on the gas station, 165lbs. Here is the btl compared to my old type-x 12 Heres a pic of the two subs-yes one is carpeted and one isn't. I could only find a small amount of carpet, so I put it on the one box. It was 3 weeks later when I finally could get enough to cover the other, but I'm considering building a different box, so I'd rather save the carpet for that. Heres an awful pic of how bad the wiring looks under my seat. I need to make a rack for those, but I'm getting new amps anyway. Need to clean the car too... This is the yellow top I have under the rear seat, and the tools I carry around. Looks like a mess but I'm working 2 full time and 2 part time jobs, so I have to have everthing with me. And one last one of the terminals. I put the small segment to bring the coils together on the inside of the box instead of the outside like I meant to, but this way you can change coil configurations easier. Forget who gave me that idea, but it works great, and much better than a terminal cup. Also when I get the new amps I can run 4 guage to the box w/o a problem. Most people run wire right out of the box, but with work I constantly have to pull those things in and out so terminals of some fashion were neccessary.At around 150-200lbs a box they're heavy to move though... I plan on changing the boxes more like this: This bad sketch was brought to you by MS Paint. But i'm going to try to figure out a way to get the proper air space for 4, so I don't know if i'll go through with it. lj516, my friend had 4 audiobahn 12s in his blazer, got pretty loud, but sounded like crap. My one 12" type-x got louder in my yukon though. I think most guys to good with the port and subs firing up in those ext cabs. Anyway, hope that gives you some ideas, I'll take some better pics when I get the car cleaned out.