tejcurrent

How far open is your window? I have around 1800rms, and about 115sqin of port and it doesn't really blow out the window without putting the window up a little. You might want to try a little more port area, you could try tuning a little different.

Well, I don't want to shell out the cash for the osciliscope, but the rms meters are a go. Maybe in a few months I'll get it, but right now it's just not practical. So using the 2 meters, can anyone systematically describe the best way to get the most accurate measurements? Like I said, I know the margin of error is much greater than would be acceptable for most standards, but this is really just for my personal use, and I think the info will help many others who are interested in finding out what's happening with their amps when put in a real world scenario instead of a laboratory. Hopefully it'll help those looking for a powerful amp get a better idea of what will really go to their subs in their vehicle. Thanks.

Great info. Nicely written too.

Well, I have posted a thread in the Fi forum, I will be comparing close to a 1/2 dozen amps if things work out right, all supposed to be putting out 4000 watts or higher. I will be testing using the same few test tones off the same cd, with all the conditions the same. I would like to be as accurate as possible, but there is simply a line I must draw as to how much I can spend on testing equipment. You are right, I do not want to say 4000watts + or - 400. Whatever the margin of error, I would like to keep it equal for all of the amps I test. I am most interested in what these amps do in my particular setup.

GREAT log, great pics, looks very nice. I can't see how the steam could really be good for the mdf either, since it swells permanently after it's been dampened, unless for some reason the hot steam is different than damp air/wet conditions. I'm not very experienced at wood bending, but I have played around with it when looking for ideas for the next box I'm making. I cut about 1/2 way through the wood, 7/8 of the way through, and closer to 4/5 of the way through, and the 4/5 seemed to work well. When I cut too little it did exactly as you said and cracked an almost finished piece, and when I cut too much it just sort of-seperated with a little pressure. Fun, but it seems like some experience is needed to get good consistant results. This is a bit of a hijack, but is there any way to find out more about your 'square-o-port' idea steve? I've been searching for a while now, but I can't seem to find anything at all. Or is it ancient chinese secret type thing? Thanks. Again, great job, looks fantastic.

Long gone, why?

Where do you play? Off 1500watts thats some pretty nice flexin there. Are those sealed? and if not, do you think you might be able to get a few pics of the port side of the box? What is the are and what is the tuning freq? Again, really nice.

hey sean, the OP wants to know "real numbers" his subs will be getting. as quoted above. that tells me in car, in enclosure using his subs as the final load. thus, using the methods described by chris and myself should be adequate, IMO YES. I am not trying to write a book of definitive results. I am not trying to prove or disprove what any companys say is true. I am trying to give myself (and others) an idea of what they can expect from a given amp in a realistic environment, compared to the benches of those with excessively expensive testing equipment, and resources unavailable to most consumers. I want to have results that are specific to my situation, in that it will be more realistic than what some will probably expect. I would like to start a topic stating something like, amp X put out 3913 watts @ Y load with Z volts. Many amps don't do what they claim, either over or under, but I would like to say for those looking for an amp that in a vehicle with X electrical hooked up to a single BTL dual 2ohm amp 1 puts out xxx1 watts amp 2 puts out xxx3 watts And so on. NO this will not be scientific at all in the classic sense, but it will be very realistic so that people don't get this 10gigawatt amp only to find out it does 3 gigawatts. Loud enough or not is a very good measurement too, but if a person was trying to hit the highest #s possible in a comp, there wouldn't really be 'enough', just the constant quest to advance. For the common consumer, what are the steps involved in testing their specific amp in their specific vehicle in their specific configuration? Thanks for all the speedy replies. (T-shirt?)

The 22 deep will change a bit, but not a lot. Maybe 19-20 to keep 32hz, but as long as you're flexible and say between 30-32hz, then the original 22 inches will still keep you between 30-32hz. Cant wait to see some pics.

I know the 2 btls I have with 4k watts total would do a hair trick with the window all the way down, I'll see if I can find a vid.

Hey bud, so you are still making the port area 46.5x5, right? After port, subs, and bracing you'll have about 8cubes per sub. You're gaining 1cubic foot this way roughly, so just make it a little shorter. I'd use that port calculator from the other post, I think it should work for you. The laptop battery is about to die, let me calculate that for you in just a bit.

Posted. Thanks, I know it's a bit of an essay, but hopefully someone will get something out of it.

I was going to add to the good/bad/ugly post, but I'll just put here. I've been trying to think of something, and I'm having a very hard time. You guys are always on top of any question within hours (or often less) of it being posted, you don't have a demeaning attitude to inexperienced newcomers like many other companies, and you're easy to get in touch with. Your sub is even better than I expected, and while I haven't had experience with all of the lines, I do have experience with your 'flagship' sub, and it is fantastic. It does exactly what I wanted, and sounds much better than I anticipated. Given, I'd like to have better SQ, but it's a driver meant to get loud, not win sq comps, and it STILL sounds great. I haven't found a sealed/ported sub or box that didn't sound boomy in my Yukon. Shipping was between one and two weeks for both to ship a 70lb box from Las Vegas to Myrtle Beach, and being that you hand make each one to order, its kinda like waiting at Outback for your steak- its worth it (I'm partial to outback too...). Customer service gets 10/10 Shipping time get 9/10 Product 10/10 SPL 10/10 SQ 8.5/10 (taking into account its not meant for SQ) Best sounding SPL driver I've ever heard, and it will handle so much power, whats not to love. Over all I'd give it 10/10. I would complain that I want free stuff, but now it looks like you guys are giving that out too. I have had the best experience with your company and subs I've ever had with any company or product ever, hands down. So no, I just can't say anything negative!

I'm just trying to understand why the ssd? He doesn't want 2 subs, and really only wants one so he can say 'look how loud my one sub is'. I'll be making a box to fit on his seat in his single cab truck, He only has about 6-8" at the bottom to put a box behind the seat, so I will be splitting his bench seat with a box, but his shift lever is on the floor so it'll have to have some weird shapes to it to even get the 2 feet, but that is what he wants.

Well, my brother purchased a kicker L7 12 about a year ago, and was powering it with a 1kw kenwood amp that really put out more like 3-400, and after selling him my bxi2006d he noticed that he kept hearing a slapping type sound. He pulled it out of the box and you could just smell the coil, and the sub was very hot to the touch. It wasn't the tinsels slapping or anything, it was something inside. He probably messed it up with that crappy old amp, so now he wants a new sub. With the hifonics amp I suggested a dual 2ohm BL with cooling, flatwind, and p chamfer options. This is going in the center console of his chevy 2500, which we'd really be making the box into a center consol, with about 2cubes tuned to 33-35hz. Does this sound like a good combo, or would another sub be better suited? thanks.

Ebay has some 2/0 wire, so does welding supply, but wouldn't it be cheaper and better to just have 2 runs of 1/0 since I already have 1 run? Thanks.

That must sound great. what was that going in?

Wow, I'm glad I've been saying it right! I figured it didn't really matter since no one around hear has heard of Fi anyway. I always wondered though.

My bro wants to use all the power, he wants a sub to match that amp. Would the SSD really be better? I'm just trying to find out why. Thanks.

I searched google for 18" woofers, found a bit of info on fi, so I came hear to find out a bit more before buying.

That really sucks! and the fact that its -20 degrees! it hasn't dropped below +20 all winter here in Myrtle Beach SC. Good luck, but yeah, he mistreated that kicker-I wasn't too surprised. So pretty much your whole system is dead?

Does the '2 18s in my dd topic' sound good for A? More pics when it's light out.

Well, 2006d is supposed to put out 2kwatts at 1ohm, but I think it's more like 17-1800, so that is what he's going to be working with. He wants to take advantage of the power at 1ohm, would a single 12" ssd still be the best option? I know the ssd is the closest to the L7, but he wants to upgrade. Would the SSD handle the extra power? Or do you recomend the ssd because of the small enclosure size? Whatever he uses I know him and he will crank that amp on it. Thanks.

So one local shop is ordering and will let me audition a quantum 4k in the next few weeks, another just got in a memphis 4k that they are going to let me audition, so hopefully that'll turn out well.

OK, so i've had 2 hifonics bxi2006ds for my 2 btls, but I've been wanting more power. I just purchased one of the bxi's not too long ago, and I take real good care of my stuff so my bro bought it for almost what I paid. To replace it I just purchased a SoundStream 10000d from another member of this forum. I was thinking I'll just go buy another one to match, but I'm considering waiting for the 2nd amp to do side-by-side comparison of different amps that claim to put out a lot of power. I want to put 4-5kwatts per btl for daily and maybe a few comps, but mainly just groud-pounding, so one amp per sub. Whatever I find to be the best sound/spl combo I'll get 2 of. As I do the in car test for the different amps I will post the voltage drop and actual difference between #s on the meter. This is not scientific testing, this is just so others can understand the benefits of different amps when powering their subs. The budget for each amp is ~$1000, and closer to the $700 range is better (used or refurb, or new if possible but not many 4k+watt amps are that cheap). What can anyone suggest? The list of what I want to try so far goes as follows: SS 6500- but that seems like a step in the wrong direction? AB VFL 400.1 dd z1/z2 RF 4000 Memphis 4k Quantum 4k DB Drive 4k Whatever is suggested Hopefully after a few more electrical upgrades the amps should be getting some decent power. as of now I have: 200a alt, 3 batteries(yellowtops), and 1/0 guage. I'm going to throw in another run of 1/0, and get a 2nd alt putting out about 300-325amps. I am trying to get a good box design made up for my yukon to fit the extra 4-5 batteries I also plan on putting in, but unfortunately those are going to be taking a back burner for the next few months while I'm moving furniture for the new house. Any commments are more than welcome, suggestions, experience, whatever you can suggest that might help. If you have an amp that cranks out that power some comments on that would be helpful as well. Thanks!