tejcurrent

Oh, Im sorry, I misunderstood. I don't really care, he doesn't care if it has rounded edges for me to fiberglass it just for that reason. I will be putting mdf on all the sides, just some glass inside to give it some strength at the bend, and resin the entire thing. He'll probably want to carpet the outside anyway, so it'll be fine. I was just trying to find out if this sub/port configuration looked ok. I'll do a build log of the bending to show how well/bad it went. Thanks.

I know it would be much easier to do 90s, but I want this to be fancy I dont' know if there will be a benefit from this to 45-ing the corners, but I think this would be a very nice looking finished product. Also because I'm putting 2cubes in the center of his bench and down in front of his controls for his a/c, cdplayer, ect, this curve will allow him to reach the dash easier w/out the sharp edge getting in the way. It'll be worth the effort if it turns out like I plan. Steve Meade has some insane stuff, and I've looked at some of the amazing work he's done, and while I'm sure he's better at it than me, I know patience and some effort could really have this looking good.

Thanks for the compliments! The SS 10000d is supposed to arrive today, and once it is hooked up I'll post an update to the review. I'm going to compare how it sounds with the SS 10k against a memphis 4k, but I might just get a second SS and call it a day.

It is possible for a ported enclosure to sound more punchy than a sealed, it's just a matter of design, and what the paticular drivers like. Every time I've switched from a sealed to a ported box I was happier with the way it sounded, the way it hits and the strength of the lows has always seemed better. Sounds like everything turned out great, it looks nice.

that's a thing of beauty.

that's a thing of beauty.

It might be a little less than a 90. I've gotten it pretty close in some of the boards I've practice with, but your right it won't be a perfect 90. I'm going to play with it until I get it right, being that I'll be doing it over a decent sized bend area I think it should be ok, but other than that, any other advice?

OK, thanks a lot. 1 amp is in Greensboro NC (stated by ups) and should be here tomarrow afternoon. I'm going to wait until I have it hooked up and can actually see what the voltage drop is so I can include it in the email. Thanks again.

To get right to the point I'm trying to determine what upgrades are necessary, and most importantly where to get this done. I installed a 200amp alternator, and 3 batteries with a single run of 1/0 from the front. I am wanting to run around 8-10kwatts rms, have about 7k now, and want to try to keep my voltage pretty steady. More batteries are in the plan when I figure out how to put them, but I really want some info on the alternators/wire. I have this on 2 btl 18s. I went to all the local shops here in Myrtle Beach, including alternator specialist shops, and besides the one that wanted way too much for a 300a alt, all of them said they could not get anything above 200amps. I was thinking about getting 2 200a alts, but none of the shops around here will machine a bracket. Any advice? If all goes well I'll probably boost up to around 16-20kwatts rms on 4 btl 18s, so Im really trying to plan ahead. This is in my daily driven yukon. What would be important to keep this system as close the 14.4v as possible? Thanks

That's some serious flex there. Nice vid.

Lol, closer to 24000+6BL's = Holy Crap sorry, meant to add that extra 0

I'd appreciate that email for dom, maybe get a 300a 16v alt just for the audio, pick up 4 of those kinetics, or maybe just some 300a alts with adjustable voltage regulator? So I might see a benefit if I ran 3 more runs of 1/0? I can get it $2 a foot from a local shop, for the stinger flexible stuff. It's much easier to work with than the 1/0 I was using, and at that price I think I'm going to get 100ft just so I have it in the future because of the rising prices of everything. I purchased a SS 10000d, supposed to put out ~5300 @ 14.4-1ohm, 5520@ 16v-1ohm. Not a huge difference, so I don't know if it'll be worth all the trouble to switch to 16v. I don't know how far away daytona is from MB, when is the event where I could find out about the elec. upgrades? There's a classic car show at the beach thu, fri, and sat, I think I'm going to go to see if anyone has anything set up there. It's really more of a classic show than anything for newer vehicles/systems. Last year I think the most extensive work was on an s-10 with several subs in the bed, but it wasn't drawing the kind of current I'm talking about. Also it wasn't a booth, just a guy with a truck. Let me look at a map of how far a drive that would be, but again, is there a show/event out there and when? Thanks.

Good luck, hopefully it's not your amp.

2400watts+ 6 18" BLs = Holy Crap! You've got to post some #s when you get that finished! What are you powering that with, as far as batts/alts?

I believe before the board was messed up there was something on that. I think scott or nick explained it that when you check out the program automatically gives you a date, then they go in and manually change the date after they have received the order and know when it will ship- someone correct me if I'm wrong.

From reading other forums it seems that many others have had the same problem. I understand that these amps will do that when they started clipping-have you checked your input level? Have you checked all your wires, ground, power, and even those going to your sub? I'd start by checking all the wires, even if it means pulling the sub out and checking the back of it too.

I've considered putting some 16v kinetics in my yukon, guys selling $600 for 4. I don't know what the effect of hooking those up to my alt putting out only 14.8. I don't have anything to charge them up once drained either. Could I run multiple 16v batteries without switching everything over? I don't know if that would be safe for the electronics in the vehicle other than the amps. I want this for DD, but I want more than 'enough' bump . I want it to play at extreme levels just driving around, not just for parking/comps. Is it possible to mix and match alternators-like have the 200 I currently have and add in a 300 to the same stuff? I can't find mounting brackets either, but I will get 2 300s if need be, I just don't know if I have to have matching alts, or whats good in my situation. Thanks a lot.

What type of amp is this?

If that's absolutely all you can do, then that's what you'll have to do. Should work ok, but I've always left a few inches.

Looks good.

Good link.

I used that bolt thing and was able to fit a run of 8 guage to each terminal, but you could not fit 2 wires in there together.

If you're doing a larger box I'd still try to get atleast a little more port area. You'll probably be happy with it either way.

I believe if you look in the technical section of the forum and search "rise" there will be a 9 page post about just that.

Hey bud, theres a guy on termpro forum (classifieds) w/ 2 Soundsteam6500s for 1300. No warranty, but they're new. Just thought I'd throw that out there.