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Everything posted by tejcurrent
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Hey, I'm not really sure where to post this comment so I figured this would be the best spot since it's pertaining to my fi gear. I am considering going to my first comp, trying to find somewhere within 4hours of Myrtle Beach SC and I think the closest place is roanoke rapids next month. I am not sure which class I will be in trying to find out before I go. I will be competing with my daily driven yukon, boxes come above the window line (where in a newer yukon they would not ) I have 2 18" btls, 3 batteries (might get a few more, depends on class) and 2 4kw amps. If any more info is needed please let me know, I'm just trying to make sure I don't drive half a day to get creamed because they consider my box a wall. I'm considering building a box that will go below the window line, but I'd probably have to lower my rear seats, which they are not at the moment-would this change my class? I have read the rules for db Drag, but I'm still not 100% sure. I think I'd have to be in street max 1-2, or Super Street 1-2 (NW?). I'm just not sure what the difference is. Thanks in advance.
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Sorry, not reading too much. I just mean at the dash, windows up. I can't get to any comps any time soon because they're too far away. There are plenty of comps 6-8 hours away, but I'm just not willing to drive more than maybe 2-4hours. I'll have 2 memphis 4ks on the btls by apr. 1st, post new scores then
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Hi Troy, I'm Troy too. Fancy.
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I like the sound of that. Ported or sealed-6 cubes net or gross? If each sub is only seeing about 50w less than rms I don't think it should be too big a loss, and w/ 3kwatts it should be awesome regardless. Good luck.
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Yeah, as far as theft I'd invest in a good alarm if you don't have one. I was reading about people in the area having their stuff stolen, and went outside one day and saw hand prints on the glass from someone cupping their face to see in. I went and got another layer of tint (5% + the first layer of 20%) all the way around. It's almost impossible to see in the car from sides/rear now, and no more hand prints either. Kinda makes me feel gansta Congrats on the setup!
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Honestly there is no real way to answer that question. It depends on the setup, what subs, and so many variables there's no way to begin. It is said in the same setup you gain 3dbs by doubling power, and 3 dbs by doubling cone area. If you are also putting in a bigger box, tuned different, with 2 different subs, etc, etc, there's no telling. I had 1 sub getting 2k watts, put in a 2nd sub and another 2kwatts, and gained between 1-3dbs depending on the frequency. This just goes to show, there is no way to put a figure on it. Will it help if I just say it should be louder?
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I'll send you a pm if that would be better.
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OK, thanks, so it'd be super street since it's over the window and I'll have 4 batteries. Thanks a lot.
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Looks very good. Triple baffle
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I see it now on the check out page tej lol No problem. I think its so simple its great. I know merch is a little slow in the making- so I'm considering getting a hat made at lids with the clef on the front, and Fi on the back. It'd be really nice looking- black hat w/ white embroidery.
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Fixed... Let us know how the BL's sound Thanks-late night typo
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Just to respond, the bass clef I was refering to, that is visible when you go to check out: It's in the page as a background image below the main Fi logo.
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Not a bad idea, like I said, just trying to be fancy
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No prob, but throwing in some of my thoughts on the sq, I love the way my btls sound. I thought they'd sound bad because they are SPL drivers, but I was wrong. To me they sound better than most peoples 12" sq drivers, but I think part of it is the setup. I think in the right box with planning you should be very pleased. Everyone seems to say RF is a good way to go, most the amps they put out are underrated from what I've read/heard.
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That's the thing-the port, with trying to make sure I get the right length out of it. I might have to make an L in the end anyway to keep that design. He doesn't mind tuning a bit higher, but I think he'll be happier closer to 32hz. I think we can get about 2.4ft^3, with the port around 16 inches before the bend (that's with 24sqin of port area), so hopefully it'll turn out right. He's so lazy-I'm going to wait till he starts making some cuts before I help him put it together, so as soon as I can get him to get started I'll post pics. Does anyone see any reason not to build it as I've stated? Thanks so much for the help.
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If you're running one amp per sub you need to get dual 2ohm vc. You then wire the coils in series (+ to +, - to -) to bring it down to 1ohm and get the full potential out of the amp. Good luck
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I don't have any first hand experience with the q, but it'll probably just be a little peaky from experience w/others. That lower tune should help though.
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That would be awesome to have some nice Fi components, or even just some mids. I can see why that isn't #1 on the list when the logo is a bass clef.
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Check out Meades post on the 12" BL build log, he bent his ports. I'll just post them: Pretty much making slits the length of the board , then slowly bending and gluing till it dries. It should turn out good w/ enough slits and just taking my time not to break it.
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What setup is that? Thats a great score, awesome job.
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Depending on how your trunk is set up you might be able to get 2 15" bls in there with proper space and some room for the amps. I like the idea of the 2nd sundown- sounds like a good match. If it was me-and I'm a little cheap-Id try to port them first if you like the sound of them a lot. Too bad about the car-atleast your getting a nice replacement