tejcurrent

I'll tell you what, I need to fine tune the 4k a little more, but after playing 'hypnotize' by Jeezy for a minute or two straight at a very good volume I started to smell a little burning smell. Could be the adhesive I used to re-attatch the broken terminals, but I think it was just the coil I cut it down, but I think maybe clipping had something to do with it. Maybe in the next few days after I get the 2nd amp hooked up I'll have some time to get out there w/ the dmm and set things right. Those amps belt out the power and looks sexy. My 200a alt isn't doing it, but I really need a few more batts and another run or 3 of 1/0. Thanks a lot.

I figured I'd start this topic because I have noticed there are a lot of people asking this questions, I even still have a few questions. The most common besides enclosure questions is those about how powering the BTL, so maybe this will be a good blanket to answer many questions. Q1. When most people buy this sub they don't have an enormous expensive amp to power it to it's full potential-as most people just want something to hold up good for daily use and don't plan on seriously competing with it. Being that the RMS is 2000 watts, is this the minimum recommended? Obviously 500 watts will make it play, but to see good results what is the smallest amount of power recommended? Q2. Once adding on cooling and various options the power handling goes up. Fully loaded what is it safe to give them? I know Steve Meade has 4000 watts rms to his daily, but truthfully after putting that much power on mine it moved so much and got so loud it was scary! With a clean 4000 watts would the BTL be fine listening to music? More? Q3. For competition purposes is there a definite limit for power during burps? I've seen several videos (12" challenge) where 10000rms was put on one, but to actually make it through a comp w/out failure, what could be recommended? I know this can get a little tricky, but just some ballpark figures would be helpful. I know because someone could read this, put on a billion watts and then be upset because their BTL didn't hold up(often because of something they did wrong with their amps settings) it is hard to say concrete #s, but as a suggestion, or somewhat of a guidline to follow with caution, what do you feel is appropriate? Anyone with experience may feel free to put in any thoughts they may have- to help those thinking about buying a BTL, or thinking about putting more power on what they currently have. Thanks.

If you know how to properly use it, it's quick, simple, and accurate. Only use it to determine port length, that's it. I still do all the calculations on paper, and check my port length in winISD. nG It really isn't much good for much else, it just doesn't give dependable results imo. Like you said yourself, you do the stuff on paper for a reason (besides knowing how to do it )

This wall isn't mine, it was another member's before the board problem, still found them in my email account, so I figured I'd repost them: Or did you mean more like this- strapped and loaded ghetto style I'll get some real pics up in the next day or so, and could you put up a link for the offical fi myspace? I was searching a few days ago and only found a link for someone with 2 fi qs, signing artists or something. Thanks.

Yeah, everyone around here thinks their xplodes or type-rs slam hard. Great story. I tell you though, call me a SOB, cause I like to bet guys like that easiest $ you could make. I always say, well, I got the sub offline, Fi, (of course they've never heard of it) and the amp was discounted (which it was about as low as the dealer could go). They wanna bet their 15's/crapload of 12s are louder, or that the 18s sound like chit- you say, well lets make a little wager and make yourself sound like you dont know wtf you're talking about- they'll take the bet and you'll take their money.

Completely understandable. At this point I'm more or less fishing for testimonials/experience from others.

2 12s getting 2kw should have an advantage on 1 15 getting 2kw.

I know it took the memphis 4k for almost an hour of solid slamming, no burning smell or anything, just so much excursion it was a little scary. Personally I don't think I'd want to give them full 4k for long periods of time, but for daily short trips/demos I know it takes the power beautifully.

pinned at top: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7155 enclosure recommendations. If you like the lows tune closer to 30hz, it's a matter of personal preference to me. 1. give yourself around 56sqin of port, since that is 3.5cuftx16, and the largest recommended 2 don't like winisd- not very useful for this imo. Just follow the recommendations in that sticky. 3 what car and what dimensions are you making the box?

I've never had any luck w/ winisd, it always give me strange results. I used to have it on my old laptop before it crashed, never bothered putting it on this one-just waste of space imo.

Alright, I'm about to hit up parts express/home depot, thanks a lot. I need to add some bracing like that-again-nice job.

Has anyone burnt a BTL coil? What wattage and what scenario would you EXPECT a BTL to burn up the voice coil? Maybe. At the Great12 Challenge, a BTL12 took a clamped 10kw for a bit before destroying itself mechanically. It reached mechanical failure... before anything happened to the coil... coil was fine. This was in a ported box, well below tuning as well. Yes, clipping is sending a bad signal to your subwoofer. It heats up the coil much faster when sending a clipped signal. The problem with playing below tuning is, you risk letting the coil dance on the bottom plate. You don't want your subwoofer to bottom out, as it can damage the coil/former. Typically, in a ported box... you're subwoofer will be able to control itself down to a half an octave below tuning... those this isn't always the case. It is still dependent on box size, overall tuning, and power. nG OK, thanks.

I'm not so good at that, but I'll try. Does clipping play a large part in the actual ability of the sub to handle the power? for instance if it will handle 2500watts of clean power, will it also handle this power with say, 10%thd? More/Less? I know I've heard negative things about playing below tuning, but what are the consequences and is there a level where this is safe? Does anyone else with a btl have any comments on the power they are giving it and what it seems happy with? Thanks

No prob, glad to help

Do you have exact measurements? maybe can get an idea on the batt. My yellow top has both top/side posts, don't know if that'll fit yours though. There are terminals you can get at advance or any car store that will add a bolt to a post (just tightens on the top post and adds a bolt). This will allow you to add on a great number of wires- with normal crimp on connectors you should be able to fit everything. I have a tsunami connector that fits 2 8 guage, 1 4 and one 1/0 that has been great to me. I just ground the 1/0 down a little at the end to fit in the 4 guage hole-never had any problems. Hope this gives you some ideas.

Just giving this thread one last chance to get some replies before it retires.

I believe from another post (I think nick maybe) said the sub would 'settle into' the parameters. I would really wait for one of them to respond to get the most accurate info though.

I'm sorry, maybe I'm missing something, can you please spell out for me what the problem is? Are you trying to upgrade the battery, the terminal, or both? Or just trying to run some wire to the terminal? Thanks.

Van looks crazy, what was it hitting? Well, now I have a face to the name.

Where did you get those posts? I've been using allthread with some nuts and washers, but that definitelly looks fancier. Is there somewhere online to get those? Thanks.

Looks nice.

OK, I'm going to get a true rms meter (didn't get 1 yet because of expense) and try out whats been suggested so far. again, this isn't the most accurate testing, just in car, and to let those (like someone said) who must know have a crack at it. Part of it is also the comment M5 made about getting good equipment you can trust the manufacturers ratings, but even those cea compliant aren't perfect. Example: my mojo 4k is rated 4kwrms @14.4v @ 1khz, but once you figure in I've got it playing between 20-80hz, with a current drop from 14.8 to around 13v, while this tells me I need more power all around, I can get a little more accurate #s with testing it myself in my exact setup. I was told that every 1v drop you lose around 10% of power, so if I went from 14.8 to 12.8- .2x8000 means I'm losing around 1600watts. I just want to get a little closer to actual rms wattage than just guessing, or trusting the manufacturers specs.

are those strappable in pairs for 10000@ 2ohm, or were you just putting on one per coil? Thats some serious power you've got there.

x2 effective cone area (Sd) on the 12 is 481cm^2, on the 18 is 1210cm^2. I just love how deeeep it sounds.

Either one is a real crowd pleaser. Like the vids though.