tejcurrent

I thought I replied but it isn't showing up? Well, I like the 18. I have 2 18s, and am happy. The 18 has more cone area, theoretically making it louder, but install is very important to all aspects of its performance. My vote is 18.

Great job with 1 15 not tuned.

Here's how I see it: If you get 4 15" bls, you'll be happy with 1500-2kwatts or so a sub. If you get BTLs you'll be happy with 3-4kwatts or so a sub. So you'll want about the same power in the end regardless of the subs, so amps are not in the equation. So if you have the same amount of power, the bls will be louder because you'll have 2x the cone area. If you eventually go to 12k-16k total w/ 4 btls then that will have the advantage. If space isn't an issue and you dont want to build your setup- you want to finish it- go with 4 BLs. Again, that's my thoughts.

That looks incredible. That must be sick. What type of amps are putting out that 30k watts?

what box specs/vehicle/amp?

2 18s. I have 2 18" btls in my yukon in 7.5ft^3 @ 35hz and it still gets very low while getting loud. I would give them one of those amps a piece if you could, but they'll still sound great off 2k each. I had mine one 4kws total, went to 8k and the difference was huge to the ear. The 18s will have more cone area and be louder if setups are equal. Plus they look bad-as$.

What type of music do you listen to? I'd say tuning around 32 would be good all around. I like it, and yes it should still shake

Here's a for instance: my brother has a 12" BL. We put it in 1.1cu net ported @ 32hz. It gets those low notes very well, but it peaks pretty bad. It doesn't have the 'punchiness' that it most def. should, in fact it doesn't sound as 'punchy' as my 18" BTLs do with the proper air space. He's going way under the recommended specs till he can build a new box, and that's what has happened. I'm not sure of what you doing to opposite will sound like, but this is just an example. If you just resin in one board you could screw some more in to that to get the proper air space.

I think there's someone here right outside of balt, like on the other side of the harbor tunnel or something. I was there in the summer and was told by (denim???) that someone had one.

x2, I'd port it. Tune around 32hz and to me it has always sounded not only much louder but sounded much deeper. If you aren't happy w/ that I'd just get another ssd.

I don't think it would damage your sub to do this, but it wont sound the same as it would in the proper size box. If you fill in the bottom of the box with some scrap wood you could bring it down to 1.2 cubes. I'd do that.

He claims to have heard both, that he worked at a place where they sold both... dunno. He sat in my car and didn't really have anything to say, besides his car was going to seem quiet. I doubt he really heard either one from what he said "they're really loud..." and no more detail.

take the internal net volume and multiply it by 16. If you check the sticky at the top of the board it'll tell you what options are recommended. I don't think you want cooling.

I still say rf 3k. You can run them at 2 ohms daily, and if you decide to go to comps you can burp .5 ohms (if the amp will handle it). You'll get the power you want, and then have an extra 1kwatts for future plans/upgrades. Who knows, maybe one day you'll want to go for spl, then you'll have a decent amp to do the job. Just a thought.

One of the reasons why I ask is there's a guy I work with who think that the solo-x 18 is the end all of subs. (besides the jack-hammer ) I've told him a lot of it is the install, not just throwing a sub in a box and powering it up, but oh well.

I don't think you can change the imp. either. "If you are trying to get a final impedance of two ohms for the amp than you want two d2 subs. wire the subs in parallel and than in series to each other. (if i remember correctly parallel subtracts and series adds." I'm pretty sure he wants 1ohm final, right?

That is a very nice match carpet wise. Nice setup.

I say t3000. If you say hey, wtf I wanna put 3kw on one sub in the future you'll have a much simpler time of it. I don't think you can switch your vc from d2 to d1 with the Q can you? If so I say d1s on t3k

x2 I'd try 32hz and go from there.

heard negative things about crunch. 50hz vs 30hz is a big difference.

what happened to the bxi2006d? I think new that's about your best bet for the $. Are you willing to buy used? heres a used 2500 for 400 http://cgi.ebay.com/Kicker-2500x1-amp_W0QQ...1QQcmdZViewItem Here's a hifonics thor -3krms for <$600 http://cgi.ebay.com/HIFONICS-XX-THOR-ULTRA...1QQcmdZViewItem soundstream pca3500 for around 550 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/SOUNDSTREAM-PCA3500D-3...1QQcmdZViewItem

I thought the 1 18btl that hit 170 was being metered in the port(?). What type of box/tuning and how much power are you feeding that btl 18? Great job by the way.

Welll.. I like black shirts a lot. really don't care about personalization so much, just the Fi logo in white on black. If they go on sale I'll buy some, but in the mean time I think I'll do a simpler version of some of what I've seen above to rep Fi.

I think hes saying it doesn't matter if you have a full size spare when it comes down to it, because you can still limp home on a donut. So if the folks insist on a spare, get a cheap small one and toss beside the box. That's what I think he means too, and spares like that can be found real cheap.

Could you do a writup of how they sound compared to the solox 18s Please. Especially off the same power, since the x is 'rated' to handle more than the btl. I got a deal where I can buy solox 18s for <$500 brand new each from a dealer, been thinking about buying one just to answer some personal questions, but if you could that would be awesome. Thanks.