tejcurrent

x4

Great job, what vehicle/enclosure setup? Wall? Congrats.

I used that undercoating spray on a lot of panels, especially those on the outer skin of the car. It worked to an extent. Not as good as some peel and stick products because it's hard to get the weight they add, but a good product for the $ imo. worth spraying in hard to reach places, and a permanent thing you don't have to worry about coming off.

x2

There are lots of shops around me that are ignorant and biased towards what they carry. Sub "Z" is the best for for buck, and sub "M" is the best period, unless you want to "buy a jackhammer". Ignorant stuff... So he didn't actually hear it I'm going to suppose... I just came back from a shop a few hours ago where the guy told me '$800 or more- whatever you paid a piece for those subs' He also said he didn't believe I was able to give them a memphis 4k each, and that it would hold up for any length of time. I let him listen to a song, after which he said 'what brand were those?'. Most people think if they haven't heard of it it isn't good, which just isn't true. I like the sound of a box on the larger side of the recommendations, but that's my preference. I'm sure it'll sound great either way. I wouldn't let someone elses ignorance make you feel bad, just turn it around once you get it hooked up Just keep in mind they take a little while to break in before they start sounding really good.

TRZ, the memphis amps are 4k@ 1ohm. I'm paying 1200 bnib from a local dealer, but there's a guy who has some for sale for 675 shipped I'm trying to work with. If I can get the same or similar price for the memphis amps I will stick with them, but if not I def. like everything I've heard about sundown. The memphis accepts up to 9v low level, I have a line driver giving it 8ish (stupid alpine 1v preout). I considered going 16v, but I've decided not to, so either one will be fine on a 12v system. As soon as I find out about the price I can get on the memphis I'll see which way I lean. Thanks for the input from everyone.

Well, hi to everyone at sundown. From what I can find it seems that this amp isn't quite out yet? I currently have 2 memphis 4ks, and was about to buy 2 more, but I'm wondering if there is something better out there before investing memphis. There was mention of a pre-order of 3ks for ~900each, which if I could dump off the 4ks quick enough I would be interested in buying 4 of them if its beneficial. After reading the thread on testing it seems they put out close to 4k at 1ohm, 14.4v? Please correct me if I'm wrong. While bias can be expected on a product forum, I'd really like to get some more info on these amps. Everyone seems to love the 1500s, and I've heard nothing but great things about customer service. It boils down to would there be any benefit to switching to 3000s over my current amp choice? It seems like it'll be a great amp, I'm just wondering if it would be better in my situation. I'd be running 1 per Fi BTL 18 at 1 ohm on a 12v system (upgraded). Thanks for the help.

12 or 15 BTL, 2nd sundown 1500 since you said upgrading/adding amps. My vote.

Too bad w/ the heat Nothing wrong w/ second to 20k watts. I'm not joking w/ that overhead console, my air vents in the roof of my yukon (rear a/c) used to vibrate out of the head liner, I greatstuffed them in place. Not the greatest way I'm sure, but effective.

The most important thing is that you can do the math to get the right space after displacement, not the actual shape of the box. I'd make it a little longer than the woofer mounting depth (or roughly 8 inches minimum). As long as you know how to get the area of a trapazoid you're good Good luck

gotcha- I just trying to prove a point to someone that I still can beat them without the best. I also was considering a concept amp. What are your opinion on those amps. I was told by sooo many people around me that these amps are awsome. The only shop that sells these amps sells ONE line of subwoofers called RAZRs, which they tried to sell me a 15 in a ported box for $110-but that's beside the point, they're just a terrible shop. I had an OLD American Pro amp, that puts out around 400 a channel. I got two concept mono amps that were supposed to put out 800rms each or somewhere around there, and hooked them to the subs I had the old amp on. I COULD NOT get those subs to move like they should've, or like the 400w amp did. Either there was something wrong with the amps, or they were so overrated it was rediculous. I doubt it was 'bad' amps because they both pushed the sub the same- almost not at all. And the subs were only type-rs, so they didn't need a lot of power either... What do you think about Autotek - I've heard decent things about autotek, but I've never owned any of their amps. I'd like to see one of their mm4000 in action. There are plenty of brands most people think are crap that setup properly will outperform high end gear. I had hifonics, and most people around here hadn't heard of them strangely enough. They were amazed to see what an 'off brand' amp could do

I have a 99, i believe the suburban has 12-16" more length wise. That may or may not give room for six, but it would def. give room for a much better box/set for the 4 18s, and more room in the middle too. The rear windows go all the way down!

I've been searching google for a long time now, trying to find the actual formula. I have always used an online calculator when building my boxes, and ended up just building where I thought looked good. I was using this calculator here: http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 because I am wanting to build a new enclosure for my yukon, but I keep getting different figures depending on if the width of the port is larger, or the height. I want to build a box with 20ft after displacement so each btl will have its minimum 5ft. I was going to see how long I needed to make the slot port if I just stretched it across the bottom of the box. The box external dimensions are 48wx25hx39d, with double thick faceplate. This gives the port about 5" from the rear doors. I was going to make the port 46.5wx6hx12d. Going from this I figure: the box will be just shy of 23ft minus sub displacement(1ft) and port(2ft)(estimates of course) giving me the the 20ft I need, while having the port a little small. I figure once it gets up to a certain volume you wont really be hearing port noise much anyway though I'm getting that the box will be tuned a little over 35hz, but since it's so close to the rear door I figured it would probably be lowered a bit. am I right in this? I would appreciate any help, but if someone could give me the equations so that I could do it myself too that would be great. I used to have them, but I just moved and can't find any of my notes Thanks.

My bro's got a bxi2006 on his, so the 1500 should be fine. They're probably pretty close power wise, since the bxi is over rated a bit. I think you'll be happy.

Acid burn, I love you. Funny, as soon as I asked I went back to my old house and found my copy of car stereo cook book. So at 12" long I'm around 33-34hz after correction. Plus with the ports so close to the door, I'm probably a little lower, correct? I wish I could go bigger, but I guess that'll come when I get a suburban. Then I'll want 6 18s Thanks for the quick reply.

Very nice. I've always just used caulk in the corner, but more and more people are swearing by the resin, so I'll have to try that. I'm a bit of a perfectionist- I'll recut if it looks like there's a visible gap at all. Looks like it sounds pretty good, great job.

Well, he does said a loud daily driver. While the xmax would mean less at the comp around tuning, on music it could make a difference. The 3000 @ 1ohm should be closer to 8-900 per driver from what I've been told, and that would power those ssds great. I've had experience with some of Fis products, and I've been so happy with them and the service I would pay more just to deal with them. I vote the SSDs.

I had 1 starter and 2 yellows. No isolator. Worked fine. 1 starter and 2 yellows no isolator, again, no problem. I would only consider one if you are worried about driving home because you're going to drain your batteries that much- which I've never done after hours of play. I've got alternator>starter batt>fuse>(fused each line to the back with 250a)>rear batts>250a fuses>amps. I've yet to have a problem. I'd save the $ for the isolator and buy some more wire or something

Is there a reason why you want the adapter in the front? I've always thought this detracted from the appearance, and you could easily have a cord haning in your glove box or some other place you wont have to look at it. Just my thoughts. I'd just focus on getting a good quality unit that you can hook up to with a cable.

I had a late 90s mustang gt, so a small lid. I covered the important stuff so the foam wouldn't get to it. I removed the carpet that covers the lid and just put 3-4 cans in. I filled up all of the structure, where there is a stiff beam meeting sheet metal. Actually I just made sure I filled every hole possible that wouldn't interfere with it's function and filled 'er up, then cut off the excess. A few sound deadening sheets across the large pieces of sheet metal and done. Worked wonders for me. I filled in all the cracks in the entire trunk that way.

Nice! It's the little things like this that made me wish I still lived in Baltimore. There are simply no comps near here. There was a comp on black bike weekend with a $2500 grand prize in spl, I went to enter and it was cancelled because they couldn't get enough people to compete. I know there's nothing around here breaking 150, so I could've had some cash. But I'm the ass living in a resort town complaining

Welcome! Looks nice, and I 2nd the above. ^^

I'm sure you'll get there, great score.

Should look nice. I love a black on black car like that, but since my yukons blue and don't plan on painting it before I sell it, I've just stuck with stock. I'd probably get some 26"+ crome rims because the black on blue would look more beat-up than anything I say nice choice, I'll have to check that guy out.

Is it worth it for a few 1/10s, I don't know. I don't really frequent comps since there are rarely any around Myrtle Beach SC, so they would stay on 1ohm all the time. I bought the amps from a dealer w/ warranty. Space wise unless they are drastically shorter than the 4ks it wont make much of a difference. I have 1 behind the seat now, one under the rear seat, and was planning on putting one on each side of the box, since this is the only place I can think of to put them (It's a Yukon). I'm not expecting to go from an end result of 16kwatts to 20kwatts or anything, but I was wondering if they would be a bit better on the charging system, and overall reliability.