tejcurrent

I'd agree with the 2 12s because I'm not a fan of lots of subs, smaller or not. I've tried both approaches to upgrading the entire system, and upgrading the front stage first was by far the most rewarding. It made added bass that much better, while the extra bass with factory speakers just didn't sound right- not enough highs/mids. Chances are if you're 16 and looking for a system 12s will make you happier though, so go with it. Where I'm from sucks too dude, there isn't a termlab for an hours drive, so don't sweat it. two 15s is 'insane' around here and yes, a 'system' to most also just means that you've added subs, although the term system indicates several components added together to make a whole... oh well.

You might want to do something about that box flexing-that's not a good thing. You'll be even happier with a better amp on there, but glad you're satisfied.

how many 6500s were you going to use? They're beastly looking amps.

Electrical system wise, for the power you're saying you want, you will most likely benefit from upgrading your factory battery and adding a h/o alternator- as you step closer to 2000 watts I would consider adding more batteries. Your budget of 500 will limit what kind of amp you can get, especially if you want to power a btl. I'd keep an eye out for something used. New I'd look for something around 800+, simply because it's hard to find 2500+ watt amps for cheap. It would be much more realistic to power a BL or even a Q, or a pair of ssds. If you want 1 sub, why not get an 18" BL and give it a sundown 1500, if you want 15s I'd go for a pair of SSDs. Denim can get you a good price on the sundown amps if you want to PM him. If you want 10hz range, a sealed 18" q would probably fit your needs very well. If you mean the 25hz+ range that most music has, I'd go for the ported BL. Or a pair of SSD 15s, again in the box that will best match your needs. Setup will really determine the sound more than anything else. If you are able find an amp that puts out 2500+ watts for 500, than yes a btl should do good, but you'll need 1/0 wire and a 2-300amp alternator and 2+ batteries. So, it's your call as to what will fit your needs the best.

You really just have to test, change some things, test, change, test, try again and again till you find what gives you the best numbers.

^ x2. I've been wanting this for a while now, just didn't think to ask. The link works, but it redirected me at first, I had to hit back and stop to see the page. Don't know if that's just me or a glitch.

It couldn't hurt. The one my brother has was pre-bp option, and it still handles it w/o a problem at all. The setup can play a part in it, but I'd just get the options to be safe.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=165 has math on how to calculate port length. You could discuss that in part, or how around tuning frequency the sub moves very little and why. I'm not a knowledgable audiophile, but maybe that will help

Tuning the amp is dependent on many factors. 1. what voltage your h/u is putting out is where you should match your 'level'- just see what voltage it says the h/u has for its pre-outs. 2. your low pass is how high you want it to play (up to 60hz is really the highest you should go). 3. the sub sonic is how low you want it to play. If it's in a ported box, you should have your subsonic set around the frequency the box is tuned to- if sealed then just set to 0 (or I believe 15 in that amps case). 4. Leave your bass EQ off (it's just bass boost and it will clip the signal- equalize the bass where you want it from your head unit or equalizer instead. 5. Someone else might be able to tell you more about phase

If you want sealed I say x3 on the Q with BP option.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=165 Someone else refered me to this link. If you know much about math this will help you out and be much more accurate than most online calculators. http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 I've also used this calculator numerous times to make short work of it, although it can give varied results. Never had a box turn out bad using it, but I have had them turn out tuned slightly off of what I wanted. how were you planning on configuring the sub/port (i.e: putting the sub up port back, sub up port up, etc..).

^^ if it works good for you, great, but all my profs. beat the equation in just enough to pass the test, and never taught it to learn it.

^ I think I offended some calc. professors yesterday. They were studying for a continuing ed class, and being that I used to do programming a lot I told them I used to make programs to do the equations, and that I could make them some if they wanted (genuinely a nice offer imo). They got upset and told me a program wouldn't help them pass the test, and that it couldn't do the math. ?? Whats the point in being rude when someone is trying to be nice? They can take all these classes and learn how to teach people, and then have no people skills to deal with their students?! Oh well, since college I've never had a situation where I couldn't look things up- that's real life, and I don't feel college prepares people fully for application of what they learn. Why study formulas and memorize them long enough to pass a test and then forget them? Why not teach people how to figure eqations out the same way you read a sentence instead of memorization? I'm sorry, I'll stop ranting- I'm just frustrated with some people teaching methods. As Jimj said, there most likely wont be an audible difference in amps. Everyone says the sundown line is very under-rated though, so I don't know how much of a difference there would be. I love the fact that everyone seems to have great customer service with them too. I'm considering switching to sundown myself.

The BL will handle a fair bit more power than that. The Q seems to be a very good match for the power you have, and is probably what I would get since it will most likely like the extra power more than the SSD. It's your call though.

Could you fit a 15" btl and just give it a bit more space like 4.5 feet? That would be my choice, but the 3 10s will have a lot more cone area. About 120cm^2 more with the 3 10s over one 15 btl. If its definitely got to fit in that space I'd go for 3 ssd 10s because of cone area. I'd tune either one around 32-35hz.

I just realized that this was the same topic posted twice, after typing out basically the same thing again. So just check the other topic

5000 watts to 6000 watts is roughly a 20% gain in power, which will give you less than 1db theoretical gain. Both amps seem to be pretty stout, but everyone says that the sundown amps are very under-rated, and while there is no warranty at 1/2 ohm, I've read where people are running them at that very safely. Imo though, I'd give them as much power as you could. Have you talked to denim about prices? He might be able to help you out if not.

I've had good luck with ebay- I'd go through them anytime, just check for 99%+ rating, and like everyone has said-recent. I bought 2 PS3s when they first came out, and went to sell them. Some azzles from africa tried to scam me&the wife half a dozen times, ending 5 seperate auctions early just to tie things up and not be able to sell for quite a while. Still made some good $ off of it (had to keep the other one ) but it was a huge pita. If you're the only one jumping on a deal there's usually a reason why.

I know lots of people who've had problems with their ps2s period. either from the box or a few months in their living room. I'd just get a PS3 and be done with it, though I never really saw the need to play video games from your trunk at all. I killed a hard drive in my last vaio by demo-ing the system with the computer running in the car, so who knows.

I'm not going Would if I was anywhere near there- just to see the rides if nothing else. There's a funkmaster flex show here aug. 18, but I'm 90% sure I'll be going to Hungary to meet some of my wifes family then. Had to set the two on the scale- once a year show, or go to europe for free for a week or so... So I'm brushing up on my hungarian.

You should be pleased, just make sure you're electrical system can provide the ~6000 watts you mentioned.

I'd give every panel on that vehicle atleast 2 coats of deadener, and fill in the cracks with some expanding foam. 1300w of sub will really shake things, and in a hatch that means it will be louder throughout the car-instead of just the trunk. I'd do it all, floor and ceiling included. It'll make all the difference in the end if you mean to keep the car. These guys aren't just telling you for the fun of it

If you could get a 300 you'd be better off imo, my 200a powermaster won't sustain 1 memphis 4k. I'd get the biggest you could. I'm sure it'll get the job done, I just wish I had gotten a 300 instead. I guess I'm sharing my remorse with you.

Congrats.

So I got there to find out my alternator is dying, and won't keep more than 13.9v at idle. It was a great first show, I did bass race and truck/suv 1501+. I got 149.9 in bass race and took first place. I got 2nd place in truck/suv to todd hardwick (but he has a wall in his truck made just for spl, I have a daily setup. First run was 150.6@44hz, but I thought I peaked a little lower. Next run I tried lower- and got a 150.8@ 35hz. My alternator wouldn't allow for more than the initial burp, so I know redoing my electrical system will do a lot. Either way, a few people were fairly impressed with Fi. 1st place bass race and 2nd spl trophies: A vid of a hair trick, crappy camera and didn't show to well, but here it is. She didn't want to stick her head in all the way, so it could've worked out better, and she kept leaning back out, but oh well.