tejcurrent

Added the rest of the filler plates, they fit from seat to floor and cover everything once the seats are upright. Then I started on the top plate, I want the amp flush mounted with a 1/8" gap on all sides Then I stopped, looked at it a bit, and realized it looked like crap. Not at all what I pictured in my head, just not clean enough. I made it like this to make it easy to do the wiring for the busbars, but I figured I'd rather fight with it than have it look bad.

Thanks again guys! I started on a new amp/ busbar rack. Out with the old, just a carpeted 3/4" MDF board: Starting the new Baltic birch rack end caps: Taking the wires loose from the old busbars to get them out of the way: 1/2" Birch, really couldn't see a reason to use 3/4". Cutting to fit the seat frame And a front piece

I just spent an hour reading through your build for the first time. Awesome work all around, I wish I had checked the thread out sooner. The battery rack looks sick, it's obvious you're going out of your way to do things right.

Stator windings, the alt doesn't have rectifier/voltage regulator/brushes in place- actually it isn't even bolted together in that pic. I just sat the pieces together to decide if I'd like it before closing it up and soldering everything in- give me the option of a different color.

I did one alternator so I can swap it in my drivers position, take off the black one, and get the remaining three taken care of. I need these alts on here pretty quick, but it'll be a few weeks till they're completed. This is just the standard aluminum pulley, I had someone want black pulleys so I just got a few extra done at the same time. I'll have some new pics in a few days with this installed with black pulley.

DC?

This should have been released weeks ago, but problems in the shop are holding up every new release. The bracket is finished just waiting to machine some out. The kit uses a GM AD244 alternator as the 2nd alt, and keeps the factory the same. 7 groove belt, 1/2" solid steel plate. If you want more info email me at [email protected].

Thanks! I'm going to use the 2 1/2" copper bars for + and ground right next to the amp. I'm thinking 5 runs of power and ground a foot or less from the inputs, then the 2 runs straight into the amp. I don't feel like getting new busbars made that plug into the amp, so this should still help a lot. Anyway, I'm not sure when I'll have time to get the amp in I'm just neck deep in work. Also I'm debating on where to mount the amp until I get the other subs in.

Amp arrived, but I dont know when I'll have time to install:

Too many variables. Voltage drop, box size, vehicle freq, cancellation, and the list goes on. If you have to ask my answer is more sub is less likely to die with less power than less sub and more power.

Because those subs sound really good, but are just in a totally different power range. Comparing them to the TSNS would be apples and oranges imo. You really have to start looking at things like the Fi BTL, DC Lvl 5, AA SMD, RD SHW, IA Warden, and so on to have a fair comparison when looking at power handling and intended use.

If the internals are all upgraded, there's no reason why a factory case can't be used. Normally though a beefed up small case alternator will be more likely to fail due to heat. The best thing to do is use a large case when looking for high output, you get more power normally and a longer life span. I would contact all the companies you're looking into and see if they use a factory case, or a larger case, and what their warranty looks like. High output alternators are more prone to failure because they're pushed harder. Simply put you can only get so much out of things. If you were to drive around at full open throttle your engine may last as long as the next, but it is seeing more strain so more likely to have problems. Best luck!

Often you get what you pay for. I understand what you're saying impious, but using the standard case the only other parts that are upgradeable on the AD would be the voltage regulator (which may just not be mentioned). I know nothing about the company, but I really don't see anything wrong with their statement since they could just mean they use standard AD cases- which pretty much every company does anyway. If it was me I would spend the extra money with Mechman or DC though.

There were some CNC problems that have held everything up a bit. From what I was told (a mech is coming back out this week) a bearing went bad, and a new encoder is needed. Once that's back online I should be able to get back on track within a few weeks, but that was a major set back. Troy

If I had someone willing to let me yes, but at the moment I have to keep all vehicles I work on ready to put back on the road within hours. If I could use your vehicle I could have one made in a few days, but locally there's no one who will let me remove a/c even for a day. The lot I normally pull vehicles from is almost empty right now, but the next time an Astro rolls through I'll put some serious time in it. xmikedxl- I should have a few ready to ship in another week or two.

I strongly doubt it will fit the astro without a ton of moving things. I'll post pics in a new thread next week probably, and if you think you could make it work with relocating things we could work something out. I'll PM you next week once I get a few pics. I'm pretty skeptical about it fitting, but if you're willing to do the leg work on it we can definitely make something happen

I believe the confusion is that M5 is stating equal average power is equal, period (which is true). Nick on the other hand while agreeing on average power, is saying that while voltage and amperage is the same, the actual total power over the duration is greater in a square signal, and that the lack of rest period adds to heat and speaker failure. Correct me if I'm wrong as I just skimmed things since this turned into a really long thread, but Nicks testing seems to be closer to real world application than what you're saying M5. Most people either set their gains by ear, or with a DMM without using an O-scope. Even people using a clamp meter will get the same 100v 10a, and assume they set their gains properly, when in fact the square signal of the same voltage and amperage will be applying the peak output for a longer period of time. Either way they may have 1000 watts, but with one being damaging to the sub. Sort of like starting up a tread mill and having the "warm up" time where you gradually increase from a walk to a run and back for the cool down, or you could just run full speed the whole time. You may have a 'peak' of 5mph, but you're going to be worn out running full speed the whole work out. Also glad the OP got his sub taken care of, Fi's C/S has always been great imo.

It will be just 2 alternators. To fit any more it's really necessary to move some things around under the hood. Since most people want a quick bolt on without replacing or relocating things it's not really top of the list. If there was a big demand for it I would look into it more as I know at least 3 will fit, but to make just 1 or two it would be so expensive I doubt I'd even sell that 1 or 2.

Thanks! My cousin stopped by today and took a quick listen, he said something along the lines of "Holy crap that's retarded for 150 watts." I built a nice 7f net box @ 36Hz for 2 IA LI 15's for the trunk of his Buick, powered by an AP1500. He said after a minute or two that it was louder that his install. We're going to drop his setup in his Durango soon though, so there may be a build posted. With rock I've been loving the sound with this low power. My mids can't keep up enough to make snappy kick-drums in music like Devildrivers Clouds over California sound like I would like, but from lots of listening and testing I believe the sub itself isn't at all to blame. I'm crossed over around 60Hz, and the really deep sound of the sub just overpowers my anemic 80-200Hz that makes some rock to me. I'm sure with a bit better front stage (which is in the works) it will sound better. 99% of songs sound wonderful. I listened to every Chevelle CD made, Underoath, Destroy the Runner, Crystal Method, Atreyu, Devil Wears Prada, and lots of Rap, C&S music, etc and it all sounds great. I can't compare it to the XCON or Havoc, but in it's "Class" and power rating it sounds like I would expect, or a bit better. With my last 2 Warden 21 setup I was pretty happy, but following it up with this sub makes me realize what I've been missing for some time. You can hear the full sound of different low frequency instruments much better. It may just be me but every drum (make/brand or whatever) has it's own sound and tonality. Many subs you just sort of hear- "oh that was a 40hz drum hit", where I hear a lot more than just 1 note, I feel like I'm hearing a much more full sound. I truthfully don't have the words or SQ experience to give the review I would like to or this sub deserves, but I'm definitely sticking with T3 as long as their CS is as good as it was with this purchase.

Should be in production within 3 weeks, ran into some issues with the test vehicle. Then the CNC had a bearing go out, and parts to fix the problem are on their way. I'm not sure why, I'm sure it's my fault so I apologize, but I should have at least a dual ready just a few weeks after the 4.3 GM SUV dual and Dodge 1500 Dual bracket come out. Again CNC issues set me back on all projects, along with this crazy weather. Last week it was hailing and it was hard to get test vehicles, this week it's been so nice several people bailed to go out because it was too nice . Regardless I still plan on having at least 8 new brackets in stock by the end of March. Since you're so close it would be really quick and easy to ship, or no problem to meet up and install for you. I'll just shoot a PM when I get some more info for you.

Sure thing! Whenever you want is good for me, maybe you could throw some suggestions on the front stage out there. I'm thinking 2 sets of t3 6.5 comps up front and 1 more set in the rear doors, but I know I'll be wanting more midbass.

lol. I'm thinking 6 from the front, 10 to the rear batts, 2 for the future 2 4 channel amps, 1 for leds, volt meter, etc. and 8 for the sub amp(s). I figure I can run 8 runs within a few inches of the amp to one of my existing 3/4"x2"x9" copper busbars, then the 2 + runs to the amp so there's as little loss as possible. Also having the ground bar where I can have it grounded to every individual component seems like it would simplify and improve things to me. I'll probably also slap some busbars under the truck to the frame, and on the rear battery bank. I still have around 5 ft of 1x2 aluminum bar I'll probably use for the rear batt bank, but I have some 3/8" plate I'm not sure what I'll do with, or if I'll use it at all. Those plates in my hand are in the bottom right corner, I think the big sheet is 3/8" x 12" x 40" and 30 300a fuses. Thanks ManRossDamn *edit- These were the old bars I was considering using by the amp(s), or something else.

I was laying things out, but I'm going to completely redo this area: I tested one piece and liked it so much I started on the rest. I was initially going with brushed aluminum, but I really liked the polished look. It's extremely labor intensive and time consuming, but looks almost like chrome when finished: I was running 4 black alternators with steel center, I'll be switching to white with black center. Hope to have new pics of them powder coated white soon. Also probably adding more alternators.

Here are also a few pics of the main build going on right now. I have 8 runs (4+ and 4 -) from front to back of 1/0, but with the future upgrades I wanted to add 4 more for a total of 12. Here's another 100-some feet of 1/0. Knu Kolossus and kicker hyperflex mainly. Here are my busbars. I was debating between aluminum and copper, but I like the look of the aluminum more and with the size of them I don't see there being an issue. The main bars are 1x2x30 and accept 27 runs of 1/0, and there are 27 blocks that are being used for fusing. Sketch up, then cut.

I turned the box rear firing and I'm liking it a bit better, though I think there is a tiny bit less output. I'm uploading a few videos right now that are terrible quality, but I only had my cell phone and a few minutes. I sold my 1000.1 and purchased a SD 16k, so while it's in the mail I'm running the sub bridged on 2 channels of my 4 channel amp for a total of 150 watts RMS. It is extremely loud for the power! It's louder than most 1000w single sub setups I've heard, flexes my wipers, my mirrors, my dash,and anything loose in the car. With 150 watts it even does a small hair trick, and you can feel the low notes as you inhale. If I hadn't wired the sub, set the gains, and made sure there wasn't clipping personally I wouldn't believe this sub was on the power it is. As far as how it sounds it blends MUCH better with this low power, I was listening to Chevelle today and the sound was rich and hit with authority. The drums sounded natural, I was going to do more attentive listening but it sounded so good I just enjoyed the music Here is a video from a few days back. It's a small paper trick, but for 150 RMS (before rise) on 1 18 it's very loud. Here is a vid from today, really poor quality cell vid, but at least you get the idea. Don't have a seizure from the changing black to white I don't expect those vids to win any awards, but you can at least see the little bit of flex my 4 channel is powering