tejcurrent

I would add a 2nd sub at 1ohm per amp. Unless you can sell your equipment and get a lot of money for each item you would be better off keeping your current amps and just buying one more sub. You would not gain much by switching to the sundown amp for normal listening imo. If you do 1/2 ohm on the sundown with a huge charging system you would probably gain a bit, but you would need a really good electrical setup. Not sure how stable the 4500s are at .5 ohm either. Rodney, if people got their amps 3 weeks into the following month, the amps due in July should not be ready 4 months late.

I would get a recone. If the 2010 is like the older models it won't hold 1/2 ohm long enough to meter well (1/2 a second tops). Not going to rag on you about the SPL version for daily, but it may be worth it to sell the sub and just buy a new one with the options you need. If you are looking to do a SPL setup maybe buying a 2nd amp and running one per coil would be better for burps. It would like the power. Best luck.

Congrats on the purchase. I would like to see a build log when you get everything situated. I'm pleased with my BTLs, it's a problem though- once you get one you want more

I helped my bro set up a BL 12 in his truck on a bxi-2006d a while back, it takes it fine at 1 ohm. I'd choose the two 12s just because there's more cone area than 1 15. If the one 15 is cheaper for you though, and money is tight, I'd get the one sub and upgrade later. Just spend the time and money on a good enclosure and wire. My tahoe held the 2006d at 13.5+v with it's factory 130a alt and a good battery, so if yours is similar you should be fine. If you check the electrical section of this site there are numerous posts about the big 3 and how to do it. If you stick with 2 SSD 12s and give them a good box with more than double the power you should have a nice increase in output. Hope it works out for you.

Finished the front doors, review after the pictures. Panel removed, the moisture barrier on the front is held in place with tape style glue, not the nasty caulk in back. It's not as effective once it has been removed once or twice imo. Cleaning the door for installation. There's another brand "door kit" right at the speakers, it's two layers- not really bad stuff but no where near as good as the Damplifier. Covering up for the spectrum, damplifier installed. Just two sheets on the outer skin, but two good coats on everything is enough to make up for the lack of mat. Drivers door, I skipped a few steps on this because it was hot as balls and there was enough pics of the back: Made a tent to block the sun- near 100 heat index and 90%+ humidity. Final thoughts: This stuff is awesome. Pros: -Much quieter inside the vehicle- less traffic noise -Better bass response from the 6.5" driver. I was listening to Placebo and actually heard bass from my front doors, which was almost non-existent before. I had my x-over set around 65-70hz just because it sounded like crap before, just to find out it was the vibrations sounding bad, not the driver. Now I have to adjust my amp and see what I can get out of them. Solid thud when closing the door, it sounds 'sturdier' if that makes sense, higher quality. -The damplifier has such good adhesive you can not leave it in the sun because it will separate- sticking to the wax paper. I put mine in the freezer for 10 minutes before installing just to get it off the backing without issue. After you put it in place there's no chance of it coming off though. Cons: There was about an inch of solid stuff in the bottom of my gallon jugs- roughly 1/2 a quart. So one quart of unusable mass between the two jugs. This was not left sitting, this was unable to be stirred as soon as I opened the container, like it was already hardened. I tried everything to get it usable and it was just waste. The gallons weren't left uncovered and were stored in my house at 72degrees. Still worth it. Overall a great product, good service, and I will never use anything but spectrum unless damplifier becomes cheaper. It's soooooo easy to spray in door panels compared to trying to roll mat out to adhere. I can see where it's a little difficult to get even coverage on strange shaped surfaces, but it's easier to install in hard to reach places, and faster (imo) than fighting with mat. I just don't like rolling mat on. Time to take M5's advice and do a 2/3-way setup, just need another amp.

Time to spray- one full container of the gun is 1/4 gallon. Make sure to cover ANY exposed area you don't want treated- windows, seats, ect. I intentionally let some over-spray get on my interior just to see how easy it is to remove. Once dried it scrapes off of painted surfaces and leather- so if you get a bit of mist on things don't panic. I would NOT let any get on a custom or cloth interior though. It does not wipe right off, it does need scraped but it is not permanent if you don't want it to be. Grocery bags work great to cover motors and door handles that don't detach easily. 80 psi on the gun. After 24 hours I reapplied the plastic moisture barrier, using the wooden roller to put pressure on the old adhesive. It still works great, no need to replace it with something hard to remove if you need to replace a something in there. I haven't had time to do the front yet, it took so long to clean everything good I ran out of time before it rained. I will update the front door pics and tire well pics next weekend if it isn't raining. My initial review- easiest mat I've ever had the pleasure of working with (used about 1/2 dozen brands). The spectrum was a bit messier than I anticipated, but it was SO much easier than banging up my knuckles trying to reach corners I couldn't see. I ended up with 1-2mm of Spectrum on all treated surfaces, and I think it does a good job. 3 coats (3mm) would probably be great, but it's so much quieter I don't think there would be much difference from a little more. I am excited to treat the rest of the vehicle, I'm sure it will be so much quieter a ride as it made an ENORMOUS difference on my rear doors. Anyone interested in seeing more pictures can visit the full log: http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/580630.html Thanks for the great product! Only company I'll use from now on.

A scraper works great- just apply enough pressure to get as much of the stretchy glue off as possible without scratching the paint: Use a rag or two and some acetone to remove the excess glue off the metal. Also clean the entire area to be treated to ensure proper adhesion. I prefer to cut the largest piece possible, start a corner, and roll it so I can install as large a piece of deadener as possible without seams. You can also cut it into easily manageable pieces. Two sheets of deadener just covers the large flat skin layer on each door, I recommend a door kit for every two doors to treat. I used painters tape to cover the areas I don't want spectrum to get on. Normally you would not need to do this, and would want more coverage by the mat, but the spectrum will get those curved areas much easier for me.

Bumping this up in the hopes of updates. I've been trying to hold off for these

Great work, can't wait to see this up and running.

I would pay the extra money for Mechman or another reputable company over Iraggi. I had several bad experiences with him during the course of one transaction.

Very common for voltage to drop .5v or so after startup. My Tahoe would start at 14.4 but after warming up would stick at 13.8 until cooling off for a few hours. An MLA module helped, I start at 16v and drop to 15.5 or so now, but other than that it is normal operation.

Looks like much more port area. A much more suitable box, but I would do some bracing. 3/4" of faceplate that long with no bracing is going to flex.

I did, but then I downsized. I figure 2 22s till I can get a vehicle that will fit 4 without a wall Just waiting on them to be released and enjoying the cargo room lol.

Wow, this is definitely back from the dead there. I believe on factory alt and 4 optima yellowtops this setup did around 152.8 or so at 42hz. This was with hellacious voltage drop (which the mcd-4kws did not like). I added 2 more 18s and 2 more amps and with things no where near turned up and <11v drops my highest score was around 155.6 @ 32hz. I'm still very happy with the subs, I had to change my setup around a lot and I'm hoping to switch to the 22s when they are released. Just playing the waiting game now. Just a few vids since someone asked. I don't have this setup anymore though, still sticking with Fi though. Most power I ever had running in the 2nd vid, and that's with all four amps

Good luck with the sub. I would research some alternator options, just an opinion from someone whos been there.

I'm still waiting to do my install for these I'd hate to build a 7 or 8 cube box for 1 18 to find out I need 9+ for the 22, especially with the rising cost of materials and the shrinking time I have to actually do projects like that. I'm still excited.

Yep you'll be able to recone them..no problems Excellent! I'll probably mail them in when the time comes as opposed to doing it myself, I've seen too many goopy looking dustcaps

Would I be able to recone my btl 18s (old 3-slug style motor) to the 22" basket, or would I be better off just buying new? Thanks!

Sounds like you already have them, I'd get the wall built In the right enclosure they can definitely get the lows (assuming you mean 30hz range) well.

Those vids don't do it justice- that thing is rediculous!

Just bumping this up so it's easier for me to find. I was considering buying the 22" AA/SMD sub when it came out, but if I can recone my BTL to a 22 instead I'd prefer to keep the Fi Logo Been close to 2 and half years now and I'm still so pleased with these things.

? I sold 2 within about a week of deciding to sell them. A lot of people are broke right now- unemployment is over 10% in my area and people like food more than bass for the most part lol. I would advertise on plenty of forums, or ask your local audio shops if you could leave some f/s info with them. These things can take time.

Very nice work, you did a good job making it look good too. I like stealth.

I always hated when people made these threads but I honestly don't know where to start asking besides here. I am either going to buy 2 21" DPs or I will recone my BTL 18s into 21" dps, I just wanted to know if this could be done and how much it would be? I'm trying to figure out if it would be beneficial for me to just sell them and use the money to buy new 21s, or if I could save a bit and re-use the perfectly good motors (actually the entire sub is in perfect working condition). Please let me know if it can be done, and the pros/cons if possible. Thanks in advance for any help I can get!

Well I don't know if I'm growing up, or just really wanting some better sound, but I'm really wanting a nice sq front stage. Unfortunately I can only adjust the placement of the speakers in the door panels for now, but maybe down the road I'll be able to do some more custom fabrication. This is an 01 tahoe if it makes a difference btw. I am running a set of realm audio 6.5 components off an eclipse ea4000 as my front stage at the moment. I would like to try a 3-way active setup, still using the realm 6.5s and tweeters, and getting either a 7 or 8 inch mid. I plan on running the 6.5s and 7s/8s off an eclipse XA4001 (or another ea4000) 4 channel, and 2 channels of the last amp for the tweeters. Sound deadening will be well taken care of. I have an alpine 9831 in my vehicle now, and I can swap this out for an alpine 9853 I already have but have never used. Would this be a good swtich for what I'm wanting? I hate to ask, but I've never used the other h/u and don't have the manual or time to install the other h/u just to find out it's a step in the wrong direction. I'm selling some of my current sub-stage right now, and once that's gone I'll have a bit of money to throw back in to getting the 7 or 8" mid I need. If anyone could suggest something that would do well and wouldn't break the bank I would really appreciate it. Thanks guys, if there's any more information I left out please just let me know!