tejcurrent

Thanks. I didn't have much time today between work and a doctors visit. I found out I have to have my nose re-broken from an old injury so I can breath and get it not so crooked lol. Might be out of things for a few days soon, but hopefully I'll get it all together before the surgery. Cut the ground runs from the amp to the battery. Shok industries 1/0. Seems like rf or kicker flex. 5200 strand count. I'll upload some comparison pics but it's pretty much like any other good 1/0- I just really like the black. Got the terminals in today. I used to run a bolt for every wire input so I can change the wiring from outside the box, but honestly that's not really an option here - just 2 ohms. Slapped the fuses in place. Can't wait to get copper, should make it look a bit nicer. I was going to run some temporary wire just to get things going till my red knu comes in, but the old stinger stuff I have just isn't flexible enough, and I can't see wasting ring terminals just for a week or so. Just posted this pic because of all those who bched about the tinsels on their original BTLs. This sub was bought in October of '06, played on a 2000w hifonics amp for a few months till I bought memphis 4kws and ran like that for 2 years. There's barely any wear visible at all. Tinsel slap my azz. Now watch me f it up lol. Wiring the subs up tomorrow, probably running my grounds too.

Thanks, go right ahead. I bought metal plates from Lowes a while back to save ^ft, but just used mdf instead since I couldn't find the metal when I needed it. It's by the concrete/wood area I think, some of the framing supplies.

I swung by my house for lunch to grab my camera and subs. Just took a quick pic of them, I bought them in Oct 06, so there have been quite a few changes since I bought these lol: I wasn't completely happy with the way the rotozip cut the holes compared to my router, but it did a good enough job anyway. Finished with the wood work 5/8" all thread bracing: Drilling for the rod More drilling lol it seemed to take forever. The bottom with the rod countersunk. Top to bottom bracing: More drilling: And finished Tomorrow I just need to put terminals in and wire it up, hope to get it done but I'll be pretty busy with work. I found out there is no store within an hour of me that carries 1/0 or terminals. It's retarded.

These pics were taken with my phone because I forgot my camera at home. I have to upload the ones from my camera so I'll post these in the mean time. Today I assembled the box completely, I just have to throw some terminals in (using bolts again) and the subs/wiring. Started with the bottom and sides Back wall, indented to fit over the amp rack. 3/4 round over on the face at the port opening And the front is on Ready for the top and to cut some holes. Got a new toy a few weeks ago I've been dying to use. I've had a rotozip, but there was a set on sale with tons of attachments at Lowes one day. It's a circle jig for the rotozip that cuts up to 20" diameter holes. Small review: If you don't have a jasper or good router jig, but have a rotozip buy this. It's like $20 by itself, and can be helpful. It is extremely easy to use, and pretty accurate. On the downside it has a tendency to start drifting off it's mark after a while, but not bad. The base for the rotozip is adjustable in height so you can sort of plunge, but without the plunge router bass it isn't very sturdy so you may have some dimples in your perfect holes. Overall it's pretty quick, small, and better than a jigsaw. First hole in the first layer. I'll have more pictures as soon as I get them off my camera and resize them. Some time tonight.

Thanks, we've been together 7 years now, dated through part of high school, she's been great. We still have quite a while on the kids, but it will be a long time before they will actually hear things. I didn't get much done today, only had an hour or so, but tomorrow the fun starts. I have a friend who should be getting me some 1/2" copper buss bars, but till then I decided not to use fuse holders, just 1/4" aluminum buss bars. The amp needs 800-1000 amps of fusing depending on who you talk to and where you're reading, I have 250s and 200s so I'm debating what to use. I never thought I'd get to use my 12" miter saw that works good on masonry and metal, it was like Christmas to get to use it for once lol. 2 bars cut to fit Mocked up to figure out where to drill things. The aluminum bars over the amp aren't screwed in place, so things look crooked but it's straight now. They're just extra security, whatever it's worth. Almost how I want it, it's temporary till the copper comes in. The fuse holders were really just plastic with a bolt to hold wire and fuse together, so this has about 100x more metal regardless. I have gotten my moneys worth out of this saw. Cut everything so tomorrow all I have to do is assemble. I used a circular saw for the last box, honestly I will never again if I don't have to, it's just so much faster to use the table saw. And perfect cuts every time is nice too. Assembly tomorrow, I can't even hook things up till the rest of my wire comes in so I might be driving around with subs and amp just not even fully hooked up

The wife is not thrilled lol She hated the 4 18s, but I told her I'm not going to sell everything off. If I have it sitting around the house cluttering things up I may as well install it, right? After year of riding around unable to put anything in the back of the vehicle this is a good compromise in my opinion, though she'd be happy if I restored everything to the way it was from the factory. I usually turn the subs entirely off when my wife is a passenger anyway, and I plan to do that with my children. For anyone thinking of going down that route- I'm much smarter than to subject my kids to that kind of music volume, I listen to talk radio most of the time with the family in the car anyway. Thanks guys!

I'm running Mechman at the moment, 250a unit is rated around 160-170 at idle. I'm running 2 alts now, but will probably go to 3 or 4. The dc alts are rated 180 idle for the 270, but I believe there are larger units that do more than 200 at idle. I really don't want to speak for the product till I've bought and tried it though. This amp is miserable! It looks awesome, but moving 70 + lbs around gently and without scuffing/scratching it is not very easy. Thanks!

Can you give an idea of maximum dimensions? For instance trunk w/ 20" height, or suburban where you still might want the box to be the width of the vehicle so you have some room, or at least so it's not 39" and your back is 49" wide.

So if you just throw a 2nd amp in there you'd have to run it at 2 ohms each, or .5 ohms? Either way you'd either potentially damage an amp, or end up with 2 amps putting out similar power to what you have right now. I'd look for new amps if you want more power.

I see, just thought I'd throw that out there since so many people have odd-ball shirt requests. I will definitely be picking up one of those black hoodies with a shirt or 2 if they just have plain text like the tees.

Leaving town soon, I'll be ordering a few when I get back. Have you guys considered selling like Iron ons for T-shirts? I'd love to have a black polo or something with just a 1" Fi logo on the front.

714

Edit: Don't know why this posted?

that is the old btl the new one has a single slug magnet Exactly. They stopped the 3 slug design a while back, the new BTLs have a single slug that is supposed to be stronger.

I've had a lot of people tell me to break a sub in gradually turning it up for days, but it can take weeks. It took about a month for my BTLs to really break in. I had no problems giving them full power right from the box. Just listen to music like normal and it will break in gradually. Hope the shop helps you out, seems like they are avoiding you while they figure out what they're going to say to get out of it. Good luck.

It will probably go down quite a bit unless you are upgrading your front stage to compensate for how much louder it will be. As far as the sub itself, the 15" Q sounds just as good as the 12 to me.

Brakes are nice to have I would make sure you can fit an 18 in the trunk with everything, you may want to wait. What sort of electrical upgrades are you doing? What amp?

If you have 8 cubes or more do 2 15s. if you have more than 5 cu ft but less than 8 do one 18. If you have less stick to the 15 you have and get a better amp/build a better box. If you can post the usable dimensions of your trunk, budget, system goals I'm sure you will get some more in depth answers.

If things are set up right I doubt you'll hear much difference between the two amps. The RF is better quality, but not really higher power. Now with the 3000 you'll hear a nice increase in output.

Should be fine, mine worked well for the price.

Yeah, sounds good. I normally go to the shows in sumter when I can, I just don't have a setup in the vehicle right now (waiting to build). I have a huge problem with my headliner rattling, that's on the list to deaden.

After winning the contest hosted on another forum a few weeks ago I received a door kit of Damplifier Pro, as well as a Fury knife and wooden roller (Thanks)! I also ordered a spray gun and 2 gallons of Spectrum because I wanted to put at least 2 coats of deadener on all 4 doors. The kit includes 8 sheets that total 13sqft, I need at least 6 ft of mat to cover each door. I used the mat on the large flat outer skin, and spectrum as an additional layer and the coating for the inside panel. I will most likely be ordering a few more gallons of spectrum for the floorboard- I am really pleased with the outcome. Before starting use the button on the dash to disable the dome/door lights otherwise you might have a hot bulb in your hand. Anyway, on to pics: Door kit Product: Doors before working. There are two bolts holding it in place, one in the inside bottom corner and one under the solid handle- 7mm. There are two wires holding it in place - one for a bulb that just pulls out and the other for the power windows. You may need a small screw driver to pop the clip loose but I was able to get it without one. I recommend saving the moisture barrier that comes from the factory. Rain does get into the door panels. Moisture can soak into the carpet pad-like sound deadener on the plastic panel.

What sort of charging system do you have for that amp? It sounds like you clipped it to death, did you measure the voice coils? No offense, but if it smells burned you were not being responsible. Just because you had the gain 1/2 way does not mean anything, there are many other factors. I don't believe there is a warranty due to the nature of the sub. Sounds like time to recone.

It's worth it I'm in MB SC, where are you? I'd say it is as effective after 2+ coats as one layer of mat. I applied the mat in the center of each panel and that made a huge difference even though it wasn't fully covered. The 2+ coats on top of that were just icing on the cake. If you're doing large flat panels the mat may be quicker, but I spend so much time trying to prevent air bubbles and roll it down it is quicker to spray. It's hard enough to clean inside the panels let alone try to smooth mat down in places I can hardly see with a mirror. From now on I'm just going to buy enough to do 2-3 coats of spectrum and call it a day. except for the roof because I see that being messy.

Thanks. 20+ 5% makes it nice and cool in the sun. REALLY hard for thieves to look in too. I didn't want it too dark since I drive at night often, and this was perfect. I think the tint makes a difference of about 15+ degrees when the car is left sitting in the sun.