tejcurrent

Sure thing.

I took short vids because people get angry when I play too long- have to keep moving. I'll take some more when I can go to the boonies. First one uploaded, waiting on the second:

Thanks, charging the camera up for tomorrow. It's a nice (12meg) camera, but takes terrible vids that show next to no movement, regardless of how much things are flexing. I couldn't do any listening or testing tonight because the 1 amp fuse for my line driver burned up. Bought a 20a replacement, so I'll be good to go tomorrow.

So the dash broke worse I really need to fix that- it rattles really bad. The terminals came in, glad I ordered 40. They aren't great, but they're worth $1 each imo. Tightened up the speaker wires, cleaned things up some. God it's the biggest pain in the azz to do this. Quick picture of the subs The port is small in relation to what it could be, but it's big enough to fit my Dr. Pepper good lol. Not many pictures because of A LOT of cutting, crimping, soldering. Anyone running more than this gets my respect, I bet I spent 3 or more hours from start to finish. I finally got all 4 fuses in. This next pic made me really unhappy, I could barely fit 1/2 the wire on those 2 terminals, it's just temporary till I get the copper buss bars in, but I was still limited to 1 run of power from the front just hooking up the amp. So I made something temporary. It is pretty thin, but it's the equivalent of 1/4" x 1" bus bar, so it's plenty enough for my needs till the copper comes in. Gained a few more terminals. I've been using some mapp gas for the terminals, solders much quicker Hooked up the pre-existing wires. All 8 runs through the firewall. I put gas line as a grommet, fasted with glue/silicon. All the wires hooked up. I'll still do a lot of cleaning up once the final copper bus bars come in, just wanted to get it running and see what it will do. No vids because the camera died, but with drops to 14.4v, about 4500rms I was getting some nice air movement. I still can't turn it up all the way till I get more than the 3 batts/2 alts I have, but that should change in a few weeks. Next pics: making a template for the quads

Never had a problem yet. I normally run the low setting which is around 14.9 hot, I use it at this sort of voltage for maybe 1/2 hour at a time at most.

Running 2 more runs of power, 1 more ground. Removed a run of CCA to make room in the firewall. I think 8 runs is enough, and honestly I don't know if I have enough power to do another run and have extra for batteries and alternators. If I have left overs I'll probably go back in. Drivers front side- I tried to group it all together so it feels smooth under your feet. Needs cleaned good, but it looks and feels factory. Someone had dirty feet! Sort of makes me angry it looks so bad, but I'll be redoing the interior if I keep the vehicle, and it needs a good cleaning anyway. Now you see it Now you don't. Damn dirty feet. It's a work vehicle anyway I guess. And it's all in place. I need terminals and buss bars just to fit all the wire on the batteries. The run I removed. Getting ready to ship it to another forum member, I threw the bottle in there for visual reference. It's about 11 ft I think. Voltage will playing music for 5 minutes: Sorry no vids, and that's all the pics I could get today.

I am currently working on a research paper that was supposed to take me all week, I've been doing it for about 1.5 hours now, and I think I need to have it done by 12. If I get it done in time I'll have more pics tonight. I really hate procrastination lol... I hooked everything up today that I could, which meant 1 run of 1/0 + and ground, and 1 250a fuse. With the MLA module on high I let it drop to 15v at idle, but coasting down the road it stayed at least 15.3. I was surprised it hit the lows as well as it did. From the sound of it the tuning has dropped quite a bit from 36hz due to how close it is to the tailgate. Sounds pretty accurate on things like Devildriver, and definitely drops on the lowes. A bit too much in the higher frequencies for my liking, but I believe some tuning will help. So with playing it for 1/2 an hour straight on chopped/screwed music with no fuse popping it can't be pulling that much power. I didn't have any equipment to test, just a dmm, so I have to guess from past experience that they are getting 1000-1500 watts each. There were some small hair tricks, flutter a piece of paper with the window 1/2 down, slight hair movement. Neighbors came out when I tried to make a video so that will have to wait till I install the rest of the wire and hook up more than 2 batteries. Ear-o-meter says it's in the 149 range right now, but what do I know.

I haven't had a chance to meter since the charging upgrades with 2 btls. I can tell you 2 btls on memphis 4kws (8kw) with factory charging + 1 extra yellow top did 152.x @ 42 in my old yukon. This was with 7.5ft @ 36hz. I easily beat that score with the same power and 4 btls at 32hz.. The box for all four was 5ft each @ 34hz or so. In both setups I used a 200a fuse per amp and never had one pop if that gives you an idea of how much power was actually go on. I think cone area makes a bigger difference than the most air space a driver can take, especially if you're giving it enough power. I will post how the 2 subs do on 5ft each sometime in the next week or two, if I can get to a meter. I can't even buy ring terminals locally, the nearest shop is almost an hour away. If I drive 1.5-2 hours to Florence to get metered at a shop I may as well just wait and go to a comp. I'm definitely loving the sound of my BTLs though. I was listening to some Devildriver today and hearing the crisp kickdrum made me smile

They told me I had to hurry up and order Monday because they were about to order that afternoon, and that everything normally gets in 1 or 2 days later. He pretty much guaranteed it by Wednesday. I wouldn't be pissed if they told me it could be the end of the week, but don't make promises you can't keep, you know?

The extra amperage wont hurt a single battery, not sure how your car is but most I've worked on the alt only puts out power when it's needed. Don't let him work on the alt, just hook up to one battery and link the batteries together. The only thing that could hurt your vehicle is if the alternator put out too high a voltage (like if it was meant for a 16v system). Other than that man just install it like normal. If you're worried about it just run a run of wire from the output bolt on the alt to each battery- no modification required. I would run the wire inside the car instead of under, you should be able to fit at least 2-3 runs of wire without it being very difficult or noticeable under the carpet. Looks like you've got some nice gear there.

Nice work, how old is the kid? I'm ready for my daughter to start eating on her own and stuff. More pics!

I also figure since this is the official build log I'll add some pics of my Second Skin Install from when I did my doors: A door pack of Damplifier Pro, plus 2 gallons of Spectrum. I put 1 layer of damplifier on the inner and outer parts of the rear doors, but there was not enough to go around on the front. I put 1 layer on the entire outer skin, and some around the panels where the speakers rest. Cleaned well with acetone and ready for Spectrum. I put 2-3 coats on top of the Damplifier, and went heavier where there I couldn't get the mat. I got the components for free, I can't complain especially for the money. I'd love to do a nice 2 or 3-way active setup though, but there is no local shop I trust to help with the process and I don't have time right now. Anyway, just wanted to throw some pics up of the rest of the truck.

Just thought I'd add a few pics of under the hood. I'm getting ready to change that, but dual alts, K&N intake makes it easy to do alt work and see what's going on in there.

Today with everything in I hauled 100 linear feet of molding, a bunch of paint and stuff, 2 people, and a 36x80 wood door in the back half of my vehicle with plenty of room to spare. I'm really trying to buy the E-350 van off my mom and use that for work. There's sooo much room in that thing I could wall it off with these 2 18s, shove a crap of batteries in, and still build a separate wall in back for tools and stuff. Don't see that happening though Wire came in today, but the mfers who were supposed to get my 1/0 terminals didn't. I could have ordered offline if I wanted them tomorrow. I HATE dealing with shops because I have only dealt with 1 that was decent. They lie to get business, don't know wtf they're doing. How do you have 4 15's in a wall do less than 140db? Ask a shop anywhere near Myrtle Beach SC, they can recreate their demo car for you. /Rant. 50 ft of Kolossus Fleks. It feels like more than 21lbs but thats the shipping weight. Shok vs Knu - black is shock, red is knu. This is some thick wire, the wire has a lower strand count than the shok, but is certainly much thicker. It has a poon jacket though, very thin, but very flexible. Unlike most wire I've used it's actually thick enough to hold a terminal in place, it's very hard to jam all the wire in without losing a few strands. Crimped and ready for solder. No pics of that since it's just repetition. More pics tomorrow after I hook up the amp. I don't know when that will be since I don't have terminals to hook up all the wire.

Looking good, I would seriously consider some rubber around those wires in the floor for the sake of safety. Other than that looks like a lot of work. I think we have similar amps

Scifi channel was having a zombie marathon yesterday, I couldn't miss that lol- had to crimp inside. There's a quick pic, it's hard to do while holding a camera too. I just hold the wire/terminal with one hand, and push down with the other.

Very good looking sir! Nice attention to detail. The tuning seems a bit too high for my liking, but that's preference I guess. Good work.

Looking good. I've screwed up some foam too, at least now you know what not to do lol. Keep pics coming.

Thanks! I crimped and soldered the ground wires today: I use 1/2" pex crimpers and a bolt to help round the edges in. Really fast and easy. It holds great by itself, but I soldered the ends anyway. Tomorrow the power wire should arrive, and given the terminals come in too everything will get wired up. I suppose if it gets in too late it will be Thursday morning, but that's all that's left to have it playing.

155 @ 32hz 4 BTL 18s with ~ 10kw. I just couldn't get the voltage to keep up enough to give them more power. Ripped them out, now to 2 btl 18s on 10kw. I've really enjoyed these subs, they do good on 1000w, or 4kw +.

Congrats!

It's an American Bass 1000.1, basically two 500.1s in a case. They're named like the power they put out with a 0 dropped off the end. From the AB website they say, "14.4 11200 Watt @2 OHM", but I believe it's more like 9600-10,000 watts rms. I'm hoping to keep things around 15 volts but it'll probably drop around 14-14.5. My goal is to get the charging system keeping things steady at 2 ohms, then dropping it to 1ohm on 2 subs able to handle 6-7kw each, or back to 4 btls. Since I've never read of a single problem at 1/2 ohm on the 500.1 I feel pretty confident. If it doesn't go out on me it should be good for quite a bit of power. I like it better than having to mount multiple amps, but I really haven't tried it out yet, I know it's not the highest selling model or brand out there, but they make great products. Today I wired up my line driver, I'll have to upload pics tomorrow. Pretty much soldered in power wire and ran all the connections. I'm using the Memphis unit I had before. It's a pain to adjust the amps output with where it's located and how it's held down. Plus my Alpine H/U has 1v pre-out. It's much easier to change the input voltage to the amp, though until I get the rest of my alts/batteries I probably wont be able to crank it up full tilt anyway. It's done except for wiring the amp to power. I don't have enough power wire. It's in transit- 50ft roll of 1/0 Knu Fleks for the last runs of power and the wire for the amp. Should be here Wednesday. I thought I had a ton of crimp ring terminals, but unfortunately I found out I was short after ordering the wire. I ordered the terminals from a local shop, so should have another 40 by Wed. too. Now I'm trying to figure out a rack for the fuse holders under the hood. Again, more pics tomorrow, but given the wire comes in on time I'll have it up and running Wednesday night/Thursday morning.

There are some metals that work better, stainless and the zinc coated stuff, can't remember which I bought though. I've been using it for years, I just can't remember lol. You an me both! I rush ordered the last 50ft of knu, so this should all be in by Wednesday. I still have some Shok I can start crimping/soldering terminals on.

Wired the subs up yesterday. Each sub in series then parallel @ 2 ohms final load. All I need is power wire and it's ready to test. I have a feeling I'll be rebuilding again soon, which is why I spent so little effort making things look nice. Plenty of room left for baby stuff. We went pumpkin shopping yesterday and bought several while hauling all kinds of other stuff. It is really time consuming to tighten that nut 1/4 turn at a time. There just isn't enough room to fit anything else in there lol.

Any concrete board could help, but if the box flexes at all after a while it can deteriorate. x2 on fiberglass and resin + threaded rod.