tejcurrent

The alpine unit I have now has the option to turn the sub off quickly from the menu, it takes maybe 3 seconds. Could you suggest an Alpine model in particular? I've been looking at their website but all the audio info seems to just default to adding Imprint, which if that's all I need to do I'll do that too. Or is there external processing that would help that could be added on to the other products I've mentioned?

Still browsing, Best Buy is the only local car audio dealer, and they have nothing worth buying. I went to a junk yard and pulled the dash parts I needed today, I'm going to modify the dash to fit things tomorrow I hope, if not then this weekend. I'm pretty much committed to this mod now.

I also was looking at the Eclipse AVN6620

OK, the Alpine was damaged in the mail God it's so frustrating to deal with shipping insurance. So now I need to buy a new h/u. I didn't like the way the screen would've hit the shifter in my truck so I'm going to modify the dash to accept a double-din. I was looking at the Pioneer avh-p4200dvd. Would this allow me to do what I need with active, or should I look for something else? Any suggestions or opinions would help out a lot, as soon as I get my money back from usps I'm buying- trying to stay in the <$700 range. Thanks.

Exactly. A distro block is just a hunk of metal. Do what you want with it.

I'll look around for the h701 then, thanks a lot. The only place I can ask locally about Alpine products is Best Buy Correct on the tweets, and I would like to try to fit the mids and mid bass in the doors. I'll probably put the mid somewhere in the grill covered area, with the mid bass a bit below the mid. My vehicle is both family truck and work truck, so pretty much all of my passengers are careless and I don't trust uncovered speakers or ones that may get 'kicked' in the kick. We also use the vehicle for all road trips, so I'd like to keep as much space by my feet as possible. My substage is definitely spl oriented. It's not good for kids in the car, or even for well-balanced music. I have my subs off when the family is in the car, and on a lot of rock. The problem with that is that I have my family with me a lot, and listen to primarily rock/metal. I want to have a front stage (there's no rear fill) that sounds good overall, without feeling like much is lacking without a subwoofer. I feel like all the metal/rock I listen to is missing a lot of the bass guitar and kickdrums I love. I guess it boils down to wanting it to sound good with the ability to play the ~50-250hz range with more authority than the components I have now do.

It's just shy of 8" behind the grill, which I really would prefer to keep. I'm going to put the tweets near the area where the dash and windshield meet to keep them out of the way for driving. I just want things to look close to factory when done.

It is an 01 chevy tahoe, the 6.5 comp set is in the door within a few inches of each other. Here's an old picture of one door panel with the screen off to show speaker location:

What would you recommend? I will do whatever is necessary, I'd just prefer to do as little as possible.

Roughly 4.5" mounting depth, I can fiberglass the panels to get proper air space whatever it may be. I can fit a 7" behind the factory grill which I would like to preserve factory appearances- though I can still angle things quite a bit.

Forgot a few pics of the h/u wiring. I soldered the harness and shrink-rapped everything. This was before the remote wire was added, but you get the idea. I HATE a wiring mess in the dash

This is in my cousins '96 Buick Regal. Thanks to Vertex Audio for the equipment 2 15" IA LI (should arrive any day now) 1 run Shok industries 1/0 1 American Pro VS-1598 Here are some more pics and specs on the amp since it's not a popular amp/brand VS-1598 500rms x 2 @ 2ohms The box is 7ft net tuned to 36hz with 96sq of port. First cut, 1 side of the port Since my table saw was stolen we were using this one- damn it's so nice to use Marking the port 3/4 round over on the port. Trying out the new "jawhorse" thing. It works pretty nice! Also with the small router- really good for laminate and easier to control with my home made base than the large router More of the box together And the port is on Using woodfiller on some nail holes, the box just uses finish nails & glue so it's really quick. And a light sanding after drying Depending on how things go we'll get the baffle done in the next day or so, then we need to chop the trunk some, cut 45s and resin things.

I would get 2 DPs, they would just be a better match to that power for daily use imo.

I think plans are changing. It seems this setup may soon be in an explorer on a 3000d Then the 1500 will end up on a sealed Alpine type-x 12. Just waiting for the go ahead on that.

For daily driver or what is the goal? I see you have 4 15s now, but what is the actual space to work with? Also what's the budget?

4 x 220 amps, so 880 amps on about 13,000 watts.

Thanks I'd definitely compare it to the BTL as far as daily listening, it probably sounds a bit better. The box is tuned in-vehicle a bit higher, but this setup sounds more accurate with the same settings and more musical. Because of it's higher tuning it drops off below 30hz faster, but I really don't have much music below that anyway- I was shooting for higher numbers with this box too. I can't honestly say if it's the build (this isn't as well built as the box for the btls imo) but with similar power these definitely sound louder than the 4 btl 18s I had. It's not quite a fair comparison when you look at the price difference in my opinion though.

Thanks a lot. I'll pass it on to my cousin, but he doesn't really want to do much more. He has his rear speakers, but he doesn't want to port the deck. From what I've been told I have like 2 builds to do pretty soon here before I can get back to the Tahoe.

Lowes was the only place I know of that carries it. It's like 9 bucks a can and took 2 cans. Not too bad for the area it covers, though it isn't as durable as say truck bed liner. It's really loud from down the road- either that or I'm not used to hearing fairly loud vehicles driving in my area.

And one for 2 15" Lethal Injections

Did 2 builds recently: Mine 2 21" Wardens, 1 AB 1000.1:

I bet He really wants the saz-1500 but it would've went over budget. I'm pushing him to get an American Bass 120.1 in the next few months.

lol, I tried to show it but his whole rear bumper and everything moves. The trunk latch is attached to the area where is tail lights are and they flex in and out too - definitely going to take something more than a layer or two of deadener. He's using the AP 1500d, which honestly didn't impress me near as much as the subs did. Just running with the volume very low (we were talking) it became hot. Once it heated up it just stayed at that temperature- I guess it wasn't cook-an-egg hot, but it was much warmer than I'd expect an amp with no issues to be. It worked fine, but I hope he gets a bigger amp soon because these subs would eat it up imo.

From behind the car the trunk sounds retarded. It's so noisy, but you don't here that inside the car too bad. Hopefully there will be deadener before too soon. Here is the bit of video we could take before neighbors looked angry, I was surprised with the air it moved from the trunk with such little power. My camera really doesn't pick up flex well, but here it is:

We got things powered but not really set up, I just adjusted the ssf and turned up the gain 1/2 way. After about 30 seconds my wife ran outside saying the bass was making our 11 month old cry, so I sent my cousin on his way till we could tune elsewhere. The trunk rattles like crazy, though it sounds really clean otherwise. It's not retarded loud or anything, but this is the lowest powered setup I've worked on in years so I wasn't sure what to expect. We'll hopefully tune tomorrow and try it out on different music.