tejcurrent

There is no spec sheet.

Bracket is finished! There will be slight changes to the spacers on the alts so they are more even, but I'm going to the machine shop tomorrow. Pulleys located: The line represents a 90 degree bend in the metal: Belt wrap?

I found a few pics I took while test fitting. You can see where pulleys need to be. I was at least a good 6 inches short, and this belt is 9 inches difference. Also looking at the pics, it's funny how when you wire for 4 alts and don't have them in how bad wiring looks. I have my extra + runs on the alternator post, and grounds on the battery terminal. There will be one run of + and ground per alternator. They will also all be looped together. There is a fold in the bracket that I couldn't make with 1/4" mdf, but in metal it will add strength and allow me to run any wiring I need under the alts and bracket instead of over.

If I could afford another new 1000.1 I would, until then I'm going to just look for a good used one. I'll drive 10+ hours 1 way to pick one up in the US for a fair price. I can't turn things up with my current charging system, but even on roughly 1/2 power there is not much excursion. If things go like they are I might pull one sub out and do 1 21 on 10,000 @ 2 ohms for a while, maybe with a more SPL oriented box. edit- I just realized too I'd need at least 3 more d3100s if I add another amp, which means another grand in batts and wiring. I don't see it happening too soon. I tried out my bracket mock up this week and 3 of the spacers were too long. I have to trim those before retrying it. I also tried out the belt wrap but the 127.25" belt wasn't long enough I picked up a 135.5" belt in the hopes it will work, otherwise I'll be redesigning things because the longest I can order locally is 136.25. I'll try it again with the new belt and hopefully get pics tomorrow. May be 2-3 weeks till I can get the bracket machined if all works out. If it doesn't I have no clue when I'll finish designing things. Maybe some smaller pulleys would let it fit, but that's the next step if this fails.

^This. There are people who spend thousands to gain a few tenths on the meter, so if $200 is worth the gain in output is up to you. Either way if you only have 1500 watts just get 2 SSDs or one BL, this will save you even more money. I'd go 2 SSDs because from your experience level you'll be better off with 2 subs sharing that power. If you plan to upgrade your power down the road by all means do BLs, but with your current amp they aren't necessary.

But 2 15s would be close in cone area to 1 21. Why not sell and do 1 warden 21 and strap those amps? or recone to 18" dps.

You're not lying! I'm looking for another 1000.1 if anyone knows of a used one f/s. I'll be getting in on the group buy of spl meters here this week hopefully.

A video or pictures would really go a long way here. Make sure you're checking the coils with the amp/car off and a good DMM. You could simply need to turn things up, what size fuse are you running, what enclosure, etc.,

Wow, this thread is really old. Now I want to know what happened though lol

I enjoy the comparisons from Fi to AA, they make things much easier to understand. I'm just wondering what Fi may release to compare to the SMD I've enjoyed the havocs I've heard in the past, but I don't know how your experience would be going from 1 18" BTL to 2 12s on the same power.

Wow I just noticed this thread. I'm interested in buying a T/L within the next month, I'm just iffy with computer usage because of working and my wife will be going into labor in the next week or 2. If there are any details you could give me when the time comes please let me know. Thanks a lot, [email protected]

Wow I just noticed this thread. I'm interested in buying a T/L within the next month, I'm just iffy with computer usage because of working and my wife will be going into labor in the next week or 2. If there are any details you could give me when the time comes please let me know. Thanks a lot, [email protected]

The sundown 1500 is a good amp, but unless you plan on doubling your power later you could really do SSDs or Q's and save some money. The BL will handle 1500 each with options, where a pair of SSD's would do well on that amp and save quite a bit of cash. The subs would sound good on that power, but to add power you'd have to change amps entirely or change voice coils (saying you want to run it at 1 ohm). I would rather slightly overpower a sub and adjust the gains accordingly than blow a sub because I 'know there's more in it.'

Thanks a lot everyone. I doubt I'll ever meter at 20hz, I think the lowest c/s music I listen to has some 26hz tones but that's it. SPL_man, whats your screen name over on e? I'm still not done building it but I can't keep from making babies and they're eating up my build money

This thread is ridiculous. It's about as bad as some I've seen on other forums and claims on cardomain or something. I'm no hater, if you did 150 that's fantastic. You should compete and take home lots of trophies because there aren't many trunk cars doing 150+ on that power especially. Having done 150 numerous times I can say that I don't believe you went from 140 to 150 sealed at the dash. You'd need to do SO much work to gain 10 db it's just not believable. I want to believe you guy, I love this forum because there are a lot of great credible people on here. Please post a video of your car doing 150 at a competition, or even just pan out to the sensor placed in your windshield with enough detail to show how things are run. I'm no pro, but I have enough experience to say I would be blown away to see a trunk car do more than 145-148 legal with your daily box and equipment. I'm not hating on you by any means so don't say that, just don't say 150 without a very good video of it. I have a friend who when I told him I was having trouble braking 155 with 4 18s told me I was doing something wrong because his 2 12s on 1000 watts in his truck did 160. This is the way you're coming of to other forum members. If you're not here to learn and make friends you aren't a contributing member of this forum. There's no point in coming here just to argue with everyone.

Different subs and enclosures will give you different numbers man. You may have done 151 with 2 12s, upgrade to 2 18s and do lower numbers. You may gain quite a bit too, but there's no way for anyone to give you a definitive answer. You may find that you'll have less room to make a proper box for the 18s, with less room to experiment or angle subs/port how you want. It should move quite a bit more air with a good low-tuned box though. Why don't you post up some pics of the setup once you're done.

Step one: figure the internal dimensions of the box. Example: if you box is 49" wide x 19" high x 38" deep on the outside, subtract the width of the mdf. Assuming single layers of 3/4 mdf that gives you 47.5 x 17.5 x 36.5. This comes out to 17.558 feet. Step 2: figure out your port. With 14 feet net you'll want about 190 square inches of port. I would do a slot port along the bottom of the box, but with a divider going down the center. This will give you 2 ports 4" h (internal) x 23.375"w x 28" deep. The top layer of mdf takes up box space too, so to figure out the entire amount to subtract from the net volume figure (4 + .75) 4.75" H X (28 - .75) 27.25" D X 47.5 W = 3.558 Step 3: Now subtract that from 17.558 and you get your net volume, which is 14 feet. Step 4: Subtract all bracing and subwoofer displacement for the actual final volume. After subs and possible bracing you'll be looking at more like 13.5, but other than lowering your box volume it will raise tuning slightly to around 33hz. I don't know your actual dimensions I just went off of what would fit well in my tahoe. You'll also be fine using 12 feet net, but I would really build around what sort of sound you're looking for unless space is an issue. I build my own boxes, and spend a lot more time on the math than I did for this quick example. The more time and work you put into it the better your outcome will be. You really only need a saw (or you can get lowes/home depot to do cuts) glue, and screws and screw gun or finish nails and a nailer. Clamps help too. Also you'll really want to double baffle your box.

There is no need to go with a BL or Q with that amp unless you plan to buy another shortly down the road. With 1500 watts you'd be fine with a pair of SSD's. Can you describe the enclosure the R's are in now? I have owned type-r, type-x, and BL 12's. The type-x sounds better and a bit louder than the type-R, but I gave it twice the power I was giving a type-r so it should be louder. The type-x sounds better in a sealed box than ported, though good in both. It sounds a bit more accurate than the BL, but the difference is not that audible when comparing both in a ported box. The BL handles quite a bit more power still sounds very good while getting louder to the ear at least. Obviously two subs on the same power will be louder than one unless you make a good enough enclosure to make up for double the cone area. Maybe you could fit one large BL and save some money on buying two subs? It would just be a waste of sub to spend the money on 2 bls and give them the power one can handle. If you can't give them rated power I'd just save your money and stick with what you have until you can upgrade your power wire and an amp that does 2000+ watts.

I was going out of town this weekend and stopped along the highway for lunch. I lucked out and there was a show going on across th road so I got to meter. I still only have things about 1/2 up because any more and the amp protects due to low voltage. I need to get that alternator bracket made when I get the chance. I had to pull my luggage out of my port to meter, I did 151.6 @ 42 hz, and 151 flat at 32 hz. I basically drove my truck w/ trailer through the lanes, ate lunch, and stopped back by and got 1st place. I wish I could have stayed to talk more to people but at least I could get a feel for where I am right now. I am thinking just fixing my electrical issues will get me to my goal, then there are many more things left to do on this box to gain here and there. I got the center console ready for the XS Power Voltage Control Module too: Also if once my alternators are in my amp still goes into protect I'm either reconing to run at 2 ohms, or buying a second 1000.1. I'd rather do the second option but I'd have to look for a used one and there aren't very many.

Okay, after a bit of digging and some uploading here are things as they look now. This is how it will sit in the engine bay. Maintains the factory alternator location- meaning the little curve on the top left is where the 4th alt goes (that's under the hood right now) View of the back "bracing" piece. It's a smaller version of the front that gives strength to the thinnest points between the alts- which is still a nice 3" wide strip. Side view Also I took the dash out of my '01 tahoe and swapped it with the parts for an '05. Basically the dash was 1.5 din, I wanted a double din. I'd rate it 6 on a 1-10 difficulty scale to do the conversion. I had to buy a new dash bezel, and the black plastic piece that houses the a/c controls and radio. Then trim part of the corner, cut out the back, cut out the metal bracing for the dash, and add 3/5" spacers to the radio housing to make it flush. Then also add spacers to the a/c controls. Also the dash bezel was from a work truck, having a navy color so I had to repaint it to match my car. Also the best-buy dash kit (metra I think) had to be trimmed to allow the screen to flip out, and the corners squared off even to fit over the monitor. Give or take maybe 3-4 hours to install including wiring. NOT MY TAHOE in this picture, but this is a before of how it looked: And this is how it sits now (Pioneer 4200dvd): Now that my gank cd player has been replaced I'll be working on the electrical again. It's funny because with the screen off (just playing music) it looks factory compared to the aftermarket single din decks.

Yes sir. A lot of stuff has been going on, subs are wired to 1 ohm, but I have to keep it turned down for electrical reasons till the alts are in. I made an entirely new design using two layers of 1/4" steel instead of 1 thick bracket. It just fits better. I talked to a shop who is going to do auto-cad and CNC for me, may make a few extra's and sell them off to help pay for mine. All that's left is a final test-fit and figure out where to place 2 idler pulleys for best fit. Let me try to find a few new pictures.

Hey guys, I'm buying an Alpine IVA-D310 and I'm hoping to get a nice 3-way active setup going. I found the h/u for a good price lightly used, not really willing to spend the 500+ I have on past h/u's. a I was trying to find an Alpine PXA-H701 but I can't find one so maybe someone could suggest a comparable eq that could be controlled with the touch screen? Also I just want to make sure this is a good unit for my situation. As far as the 3-way active setup, I have an older eclipse ea4000, but I'm willing to sell to get another 4 channel and a 2 channel, or just add another 2 channel. I do want the amps to match though so suggestions would be great. I'm on a budget at the moment, but I was told DLS made some nice comps that would be a good starting point, though I'm not sure on the 7/8" midbass. I listen to a lot of rock, mostly heavier rock and feel like I'm lacking so much in the lower mid/ midbass area. I currently have realm audio 6.5 comps and I'm not pleased with the bottom end. I have subs, but for the majority of my listening I'd prefer to have them off. I would be happy for things to play down to about 50hz well. I'm thinking maybe $1000 budget on speakers and amps, cheaper would be much better. I plan on making a-pillars to house the tweeters, with the mid / midbass angled in the door near the factory location to preserve cosmetics. I will not be making obvious pods- I know I'd have more flexibility and ability to make things sound better, but I just don't want to make the work obvious. Thanks, I'll try to answer any questions I can to get things right. Any help is appreciated.

I agree it's probably a deeper note than you can physically hear. Question though - does your box really have holes to let the air out?

I enjoy SPL competition, and occasionally some chopped and screwed music in the 150 db + range. On the other hand that just isn't practical with the family- and overwhelming bass does not sound right with most of the music I listen to. I just can't drag myself away from spl, but for daily use there's so much I know I'm missing out on, and the 60-250 hz range is barely there at all. I rarely listen to things loud, I really just want a good sounding front stage, regardless of how it mixes with the subs because they're more for comps. I was having some difficulty understanding your questions so I hope I answered it well. Thanks a lot, I'll look into the Alpine. I read a review about some special cable that I'd need that doesn't come with it in one review, but I can't find anymore info elsewhere? I'd be open to adding external processing if there are some good suggestions on that, I guess once things are set I wont be touching them a whole lot.

Judging by your experience level I want to ask who will be doing the install, and setting the amp gains? Either way going off your questions I'd go with type-rs. They'll sound fine and get decently loud- and 4 will give you more cone area than 1 18. Also you'll probably have less likely hood of clipping all 4 to death if you don't set things up right.