yitzac1990

So here's a quick overview of my setup as it sits: amplifier - older Lanzar Vibe 420 (http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=2393) Front components - Polk db6501 (Brand New, http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9109_Polk-Audio-db6501.html?SearchClickout[query_id]=10352811&SearchClickout[ignore]=1) rear subwoofer (bridged on amp channels 3/4) - older Kenwood 10", 150 wRMS, single 4 ohm, in a 1.36 cu ft ported box remote turn-on module - (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18693_PAC-TR-4.html?SearchClickout[query_id]=10352736&SearchClickout[ignore]=1) So for some reason, even with the turn on module providing a 2 second delay, I still get a lot of "thump." I put it in quotes because it doesnt thump just once, it seems like it oscillates, starting at a fast rate, and slowing til it stops, all over about 3 seconds. During this time, my sub and mid woofers reach max excursion. I have no idea why it is doing this, but I know it is the amplifier. Any ideas? Also, lately my amplifier has been hitting thermal cutoff and going into protect mode, but only if the volume is at a certain level or higher. My pioneer radio goes up to volume 62, and every time the volume is set to at least 35, the speakers start crackling, then the amp suddenly goes into protect. Although, this could have been due to my last set of components being blown? I literalyl just installed the Polks, tested them out pretty loud for about 30 sec and they sounded fine. I'll see what happens with these speakers, but if its not the speakers, any ideas? Last, I bought an in-line noise filter (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_26831_Axxess-AX-ANR1000.html) to suppress my alternator whine. Does it get installed in the yellow constant battery wire, or the red ignition wire? I installed it in line of the yellow wire (constant), and the radio wouldnt even turn on. Maybe I just chose the wrong wire? I took it out and am now waiting for an answer here lol Sorry for the long thread, hope someone can help... Thanks!! P.S. - if you need a video of what exactly the turn on sound is like, let me know.

ok so I tried the RCA grounding fix, and although I couldnt do it "right" and solder the PICO fuse internally, I did manage to ground each negative line of the RCAs externally to the radios chassis. WOW!!! It actually worked, and the only time I can hear any engine whine, is when the volume is all the way to 0, and there is barely any whine at that. And best of all, all my turn-on/off noises are gone, and it turns on and off just like normal. Thanks guys!! I love this site!

shizzzon, I took a look and I think that's my solution ill give it a try as soon as I can, thanks!! do you think fixing that would also help the funky turn-on behavior?

we'll that deck is about 5 years old. 4v preouts, if it matters. I've had countless subs run off of it and it has never let me down. IMO, its the last generation of actually well made radios.

So i tried "enhancing" the amplifier ground; soldered the already crimped ends of the ground wire, and sanded down to bare metal the point where the wire attaches on the car. I think the volume of the whine went down a little, but it is definitely still there. I made these brackets for my amp to suspend it off the floor while its under my seat: Do you think these could have anything to do with grounding issues? The part of the seat they are attached to is all painted, so no electrical current going through them... Also, about my turn-on problems, I took a short video of what exactly happens: http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/441/ggk.mp4/ It gets pretty annoying, on top of the constant alternator whine.....any more help is appreciated!!

you mean the amp ground right? ok ill try that first, hopefully later today. Some good news though, with the new speakers the amp no longer goes into protect mode

the HU is a pioneer DEH-P7900BT. it is grounded directly to the chassis. The amp is grounded to a bolt that is within a few inches of it that is used for a grounding point for some other wires (stock on my vehicle). I havent seen many installs needing a filter, but thats because Im usually just interested in a subwoofer. this is my first time using a 4-channel amp to run components and a sub. After reading that article I posted, I narrowed it down to needing a filter. If im wrong, that's fine, any suggestions on what to do?? Thanks

well the noise filter IS removed. Like I said, with the noise filter installed per the instructions, the radio wasnt even getting power. Maybe I got a defective filter? But I installed it on the constant 12v line, should it go on the ignition wire instead? I read this article (http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=121) and followed the steps mentioned to pinpoint the source of the noise, and the only option left is good ol' alternator whine that I need a filter for.

I figured this was the place to ask, since I cant seem to find anything after searching Google. I want to be able to plug in my USB drive to my Pioneer's IP-BUS interface and control my music from the HU, but Im not sure how to do it. I know the CD-UB100 does this exact thing, but I cant find any used ones for sale (I should have bought one a while ago when I found it new for $35 ), so I'm wondering if there is a way to DIY on making a USB input through the IP-BUS connector? I have found pinouts of this connector, but the onle pins they list are grounds and left and right audio. This would only be good for a 3.5mm stereo cable, which is what I have now. Im wondering, is there a way to do this by chopping an Ipod interface cable and soldering on a female USB connector? If it matters, the HU is a Pioneer DEH-P7900BT Please help!! P.S. - I might receive the messages easier/sooner if they are PM'd to me

Thanks for all the help. Its a 12" Fi BTL. Box is built exactly to Fi's cut sheets tuned to 32 hz. Didn't think this would happen to an Fi...

My subs been "rattling" for a bit and finally went back there to listen to it and it sounds like this: http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/193/sdm.mp4/ Obviously it was playing at low volume, and I held the cam so close because I wasn't sure if my phone could pick it up as well as it did lol. Does it need a re-cone already or what? Ive had it for about a month, maybe less.

lol is that seriously what its called? can I get it at Wal-mart?

Any specific brands or types?

this is what it looks like: what do you guys recommend to fix this?

Yep the cap came Unglued in one spot what is the recommended adhesive for this?

i like my hifonics BRZ2400.1D

yeah i pushed the cone of the sub down lightly and didnt notice anything off. Ill go look again, but i dont think the cone is coming unglued. Or should i take it out of the box and look under the cap?

is that something easily fixable, or would I be better off sending it back to Fi and paying them to fix it or something? how can I tell for sure thats it?

Hey all, new here, and just got my Fi BTL hooked up last night. Just thought id share some other systems that I've had also. I started with a single CVR12. blew that, and got 2 more. I was going to get 2 more for a total of 4 12 CVRs, but Instead I got my Kicker L7 12s: This is what it looked like in an older box that I messed up on, with the FatMat showing: Those subs went through 2 vehicles and about 4 boxes. Then I sold that system to put a turbo in that car. But my friend gave me a deal I couldnt pass up on some Memphis subs, so then this is what it looked like: I've had many other smaller systems, like some hifonics subs with older amps, just no pictures of those. Now for my new system: What WAS in my truck vs. the new BTL: The box was built exactly to Fi's cut sheets for a 12" BTL, except with the sub placement on top instead of in front. My amp, a Hifonics BRZ2400.1D with all 1/0 Kicker wire: The bass boost knob: No videos yet, I want to wait a few weeks for the sub to break in more. Let me know what you all think!! And yes, I build ALL my own boxes, as well as my friends boxes. I've lost track of how many i've built....

Lol I bought the 12 because its rated at the same power and cheaper. I want another

Yeah its built to Fi's cut sheets and they are at 32 Hz. The video was taken on a Droid phone, so quality could be better lol and yeah this was the first time I really turned it up, and I still was only at 50 of 62 volume I definitely do want another btl and amp, but im about to move back to college, so it will have to wait for now... And I dont think I've ever heard "Fi" pronounced, sorry about that! Haha

videos up!

I mean what procedures is used. Is it just sand, bondo, sand, paint basically? Or what else is used?

haha you guys really think that's a big box? I've built way bigger, but never for a single sub, so I guess good point. The box for those 2 kicker L7s was about 6 cu ft total. I also built a box for 2 15" CVRs, it was single chamber/port and was about 7 cu ft total. We had to hit his trunk out of shape with a hammer to get the box to slide in. but anyways, I'll take videos then, tomorrow though. It's dark out here already! Also, what method do you guys use for painting boxes? I may want to try painting for once....

haha you sure about that? I just dont want to accidentally blow something, especially since there is no warranty on the BTLs!