dpgriff

I'm hoping to upgrade from my 10" 500w rms alpine type r in sealed box this summer. I'm planning to buy a 12" and put it a ported box. I'm interested in the gcon but my main concern is power. I've read that more power won't always make a huge difference in spl. I know the gcon isn't out yet but i'm looking for an estimate of how much louder a gcon 12 should be over a dcon 12. If there isn't that much of a difference I wouldn't mind going with a dcon and not to have to worry about using too much power when putting in an amp for the speakers. As far as I know, type r's are pretty decent subs. Would a 12" 300w dcon in a ported box even be an upgrade from a 10" 500w type r in a sealed box?

I'm been thinking about getting some new subs. I currently have a single 10". I'm looking for sound quality but wouldn't mind something louder. I have enough room for some 12's in the trunk. I love the sound of sealed boxes. I drive an old card though so I know I wouldn't be able to push more than 1 icon without multiple batteries/alternator upgrade. Having heard neither the icon or dcon in person i'm wondering how they compare in both spl and sq. I hear the icon is a great sub but if the quality isnt that much better than a pair of dcons, i dont know if i can justify twice the wattage. Either scenario will be upgrade from my current. Just looking for some opinions from people who have had experience with these subs.

I'm thinking that I may go with 2 dcons 10's in a ported box. Two ported 10's would take up roughly the same amount of space as 1 12 but the dcons only need 300w and I may add an amp for my speakers if I end up modding my front doors for components.

I've decided that I would like to put two 10" dcons in my car this spring. Im trying to find an amp that will power them well without spending tons of money. I came across this MB Quart REF 800.1 for $135. Its stable down to 1 ohm and is cea complient. Is this too good to be true? I hear people hate on maxxsonics but it has all the features im looking for. Even if the numbers were skewed a bit I would still only need about 600w rms. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_25536_MB-Quart-REF1.800-REF-1.800.html

I know the amps I listed are not high quality but I cannot afford a 300 or $400 dollar amp. How much power will the IA put out? I want at least 600w of clean power. I'm skeptical about buying an amp rated at 450w to split between two subs when each can handle 400-450w.

If thats the case then that could very well be an option

I think the incrimnators would be too expensive because I would need two of them. If I went with the AQ1200 should I get dvc and wire it to 1 ohm with the gains all way down or should I get the svc subs and run it at 2 ohms.

Are kenwood amps any good? How about the RE audio ones? I also found a boston acoustic that puts out 800w @ 2 ohms for $220.

So ive been thinking about how I want to upgrade my system. I'm planning on getting two 10" dcons in a ported box. I currently have 4" coax speakers and 6.5" coax on the rear deck. Both sets of speakers suck in the mid range. Would I be able to use a 6.5" kicker cvt for mid bass like bass drum kicks and stuff (like 80-200+ hz?) . It says it works in a sealed .2-.3 cu ft. enclosure. I bet I could find room for it infront of the middle seat in the back. I could get a 5 channel amp to power the speakers and this 6.5 woofer. Is this a stupid idea? Would this small woofer be redundant?

I'm sure 5.25" would fit well seeing how 5" work. The car is a '97 corolla. This isn't my car just a picture I found on google. http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/3206/2906/8013952828_large.jpg

I think i'll just get a new one and sell the one I have currently. I'd probably get a few extra features like hd radio or bluetooth or something. Does anyone have suggestions for headunits. My alpine is great but i'm not against trying something new. The JVC arsenals seem pretty cool.

When I was first getting into car audio I cheaped out and bought an alpine cde-100 as a headunit replacement. It only has one set of rear preamp outputs and I already have an amp for my sub hooked up to them. In future I would like to get an amp for my speakers. When I eventually get an amp for speakers will I need a headunit or is there an easy work around? I don't want to lose any sound quality. Also, how important is the preamp voltage? I read that it cuts down on distortion but how much of a difference will there be between 2v & 5v?

Well I probably wont be putting the system in until the spring. The problem with the door mods is that I have such little experience with this stuff and I wouldn't really know where to start. I definitely don't want to pay a shop to do it. I guess ill look around for some info.

Its unfortunate that we live in a world like this. I bet the stickers draw a lot of attention. It sucks that you don't have your old equipment but i'm sure most people on here are constantly looking for an excuse to upgrade. Now you can justify spending more money on car audio equipment without feeling guilty lol

I'd do that if I were crafty enough. I'd have to mod both the door frame and paneling. I don't have any experience with that kind of stuff. I may just try and get some foam baffles to see if it increases the punch a little bit.

A few months ago I replaced all speakers in my car. I have 4" pioneer TS-A1072r speakers in the front doors and 6.5" Pioneer TS-A1673r on the rear deck. The rear speakers are fantastic but the front ones are extremely quite in comparison. The front speakers are also a lot quieter than the crappy stock speakers. At normal listening levels the majority of sound is coming from the back speakers. The front speakers only reach a reasonable level after turning the volume up more than halfway. Since my headunit only has one output (which i'm using from my sub amp) I cant adjust the fader without it affecting the sub. This was my first time installing speakers. On the rear speakers I was able to slide the wires off the speakers terminals but the front ones were soldered on so I had to cut the wires and attach new connector things. I'm questioning whether or not having the speaker sealed off or not is part of the problem. I've included pictures to help explain what i'm talking about. The first picture is a side by side of the new/old speakers. The second one is a drawing of the new speaker. As you can see in the drawing, the yellow is the car door and the red shows where there is open space between the speaker and the mounting hole. I hadn't thought much about this when I was putting the speakers in. You can see in the first picture that it looks like the old speaker is attached to a plate that may have sealed off the open space? I wasn't paying attention to this stuff during the install. I dont have the old speakers either.

I could stick one under the driver seat but I don't know how that would sound. I could also get a second one for under the passenger side seat. I dont know much about 5 channel amps. Would I be able to run the 4 speakers at 4 ohms and then run the sub channel at @ 2ohms?

Searching around I found out that this is a common problem because the front speakers are actually 5", not 5 1/4" though. 4" speakers fit but have that space between the speaker and mounting. Someone suggested using weather stripping which I will have to try out. I should have went with the polk db501s up front.

Is there anywhere that I can buy these trim rings or will I have to construct something myself to seal them off? The foam baffles behind the speaker would serve the same purpose right? I wish I could put components in but it seems hard to find 4" comps + I dont know where i'd put the tweeter though.

I'm pretty sure I didn't mix up the positive and negatives. I just remembered that the connectors are differently sizes so they only fit on the correct terminal. Ill recheck the connections I made and see if I can find a way to seal of the speakers.

I was thinking about trying to put in 2 ssa fcons when they come out. I think they said they would be 600watts rms a piece. I drive '97 corolla with stock alt and a run-of-the-mill battery. The stock alternator is 70-80 amps i believe. 1200w would most likely be too much for the electric even with the big 3 and a new battery? I cant find any specific h/o alternators for my car. Not to mention that I probably couldn't afford to buy an expensive one and have it put in. I may just stick with dcons if this is the case.

I've been thinking about upgrading my system sometime next year. I'm thinking about getting 2 10" fcons when they are released. I should have the space for a ported enclosure but don't want to pay a shop to do it and I think it would be fun to do myself. The thing is that I don't have a lot of experience with wood working. Would it be hard for someone like myself to build their own enclosure? I'm not trying to do anything fancy just a rectangular box. I'm pretty sure I'd be able to get my hands on all the tools needed. Would I need any other power tools besides a circular saw and a jig saw?

Thanks for the input. I'll have to see if I know anyone with a table saw I can use. I most likely could barrow I router if my dad doesn't already have one and buy the jig.

Assuming I do have them hooked up right, could I damage my speakers by swapping the wiring? Would something like these help? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22337_The-Install-Bay-VXT40.html

The car is a '97 corolla. The speakers are running off the headunit which is an alpine-cde 100. Both sets of speakers are 3 way pioneer a-series. 6.5" - http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/A-Series/TS-A1673R , 4" - http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/A-Series/TS-A1072R . Both pairs are 4ohms. The 4" are 20/150 watts and the 6.5" are 35/220 watt. My headunit puts out 18w x 4 @4 i believe which should be sufficient for the front speakers right? I would have thought that the larger speakers would be harder to move. When you say out of phase do you mean that I should swap the wires?