scottxgtr

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/15_18W6_BDS.pdf only calling for 1.25cf sealed and 2.25cf ported. in a fronty, pretty much going to have to face them forward in a typical slanted truck box. if he gets that autotek with them tell him to go easy on the gains.

had a run in with similar bots on my forum as well. i also have captcha set up so they are using people to bypass them. found a link farm where one spammer linked to his profile on my site for his spammer buddies to use. deleted his account, banned his ip and email addresses. now i ive got it set up so i get a email everytime a new member signs up, which i can view on my phone. it displays how they filled out their profile and spammers are very easy to spot. they can be banned before they even cause trouble.

Figured id share this here since all of the equipment came from various sources on SSA. i needed a box for my 08 frontier king cab. wanted something low profile and durable for use in a daily driver. also had to house a pair of sundown amps. turned out nice, and the bedliner means i wont have to worry about pucking it up too much. click the thumbnails and they get bigger and that brings me to where im at today. got everything installed and wired up. just gotta finish trimming it out and break everything in. not worried about chasing the elusive deebeez so its around 2.5cf ported right about 30hz. so far it blends okay with the seas components with the amp turned way down. ill get a few more pics when i get everything cleaned up.

from the head unit back is a stinger expert 12' because it the only nice enough rca i could find with a short plug. there is a dash brace right behind the head unit that makes it a pain to get anything in there without making the radio stick out. back at the box it plugs into a couple of sonicwave y cables and theres a small jumper to the 1500d, both courtesy of parts express.

shout boxes are also a waste of server resources. they tend to slow down forums by putting extra queries on the server. ^^the ihop works just as well

because they are very nice woofers when played inside of their limits. i love how my Q 18 sounds tuned at 30hz.

i live in biloxi. so ill be there with the infamous nissan crew. just a heads up to anyone coming down. a barge hit the popps ferry bridge the other week knocking a 60 foot section of road into the drink popps ferry is a major north/south route into Biloxi. So anyone getting directions that say take exit 44 Cedar Lake Rd to Popps Ferry Rd should reroute. Exit 46 will take you south on I-110 or exit 38 will take you south on Cowan/Lorraine (hwy 605). you also have options with hwy 90 and hwy 49. dont expect it to be open by june.

200 is fine.

ive noticed the same thing over the past few weeks. I ordered a Q when Fi first launched and its still thumping perfectly. i think sean put it best: especially since they are the same price. if someone doesnt know what to buy, id advise getting the thing that will take more abuse because they are unknowingly going to abuse it with their lack of knowledge nick, any way you guys could put something on the website when they go to checkout with a Q that says "are you sure you dont need a BL instead?"

thats more than a pwn. that more like a outright skull fudgeing.

basically instead of using a ferrite magnet like in a traditional sub, it uses an electromagnet. we made electromagnets in 3rd grade. wrap some wire around a nail, hook it to a 9v battery and picked up paperclips. same principle here. steel slug with a copper coil wrapped around it. power it with DC and you get a magnetic field. the strength of the magnet is adjustable with the voltage applied. its the same principle as a voice coil. so a normal subwoofer has a large ferrite magnet and a small electromagnet(voice coil), whereas the new focal driver has a large electromagnet and a small electromagnet(voice coil). im sure there is a lot of technology in there. but for 180k, that is one sexy looking refrigerator.

too much power and a clipped signal most likely. kudos to quality control tho. very hard to find products that fail simultaneously when abused.

i sometimes question a persons knowledge when they ask about puurchasing a BTL. I see a lot of people that know their way around ohm's law that can beat on a BTL for years with no problems. Those are the people that really should be buying them. People that are aware that everything has limits. The BTL is a heavily overbuilt sub. hell, BTL actually stand for Built To Last, but its definitely not bullet proof. In the right hands, you should have no worries of premature failure. However, I see too many people buying a top of the line sub just because its expensive and bad ass. then they put it in a crappy box with a sub par amp and have poor results. Those are the people that should be concerned with a warranty. they obviously still have some things to learn and are likely to damage some equipment doing so. you dont get out of drivers ed and jump into a ferrari. work your way up the audio ranks learning as you go.

not technically, its like an amputated L. but the port is measured down the center. so technically your port isnt 21" long. technically its 21" long + 1/2 of the opening + 1/2 of the opening. but because the other half of the L is missing, it might behave a little differently in the real world. ive never run a port like that because of the uncertainty i have about the actual port length. there is a sticky here on SSA that tells you how to find your port tuning after you have built a box. it involves playing tones and measuring voltages, so anyone should be able to do it. again, what size BTL?

what size btl? im getting around 7.63 cubes after port displacement, not including woofer or bracing. and a 35 hz tuning. tuning is probably a little less that that with the L-turn you got on the end.

payment sent :bigclap: the best part is i will have forgotten about it by june so it will be like christmas when i come home to a mystery box.

do what? id write this one off as BS. also include in that BS pile any review that contains the following: -A reference to DB's -A reference to being heard a block away -A comparison to the W7's they used to have in their escalade -A mention of needing to replace a window because they blew it out most people dont know enough about the equipment they are using to leave a unbiased review. mentioning any of the 4 things above removes all credibility so you might as well ask your girlfriend what she thinks about the sub.

now youre just playing with my emotions. fudge it. id probably still go with the 2000d for that price tho. length is about 20" right? continue to count me in.

the SAZ1500 is being discontinued correct? If so, count me in for a 2000d

lol. way to piss off the old lady. Nice truck BTW

saw this one today, had to share

not bad. somebody is gonna lose an eye tho if one of those stones comes loose. lol

you guys run a good show here. you have earned the success it brings. how old is the website/forum?

i dont recall the specs on them, but i had a 12" that i blew with an old us acoustic amp with around 600w (which i think was the RMS rating for the sub). the ZM series couldnt hold a candle to the older Z series subs as far as abuse goes. The ZM was a decent sounding sub tho. no quite sure i would compare it to the BL. maybe more of a SSD

which Kove Armageddon? there have been a few different series of those. Z, ZM, U2, etc