scottxgtr

combine the suggested methods. put down a layer of deadener as a base to get good adhesion to the panel. then put on some of the aluminum bars followed by another layer of deadener to keep them in place. sort of like fiberglass, except instead glass fibers for reinforcement you are using aluminum bars, and replacing the resin adhesive for a foil backed butyl rubber. no welding required. no rattles because they are sandwiched between deadener. and most of the rigidity should transfer through to keep the panel from flexing too much.

new to car audio and buying a sub with no warranty besides DOA hunh? at least you got one that can take a little abuse. make sure you do a lot of reading up on the hobby before jumping in over your head. hopefully you have an older big body impala and not one of the newer ones.

built into the box. stacked a sax 100.4 and saz 1500

you measure the length of the port down the center. measuring that on a curve is easy to do with a string but with a 10.5" diameter pipe im not sure if you are gonna be using an elbow or just cutting and fitting the pipe. last time i priced fittings for large diameter pipe the price was pretty outlandish.

she might have an adams apple. less of a fix, more of a major overhaul.

that depends on your definition of "better" some people want loud, some people want clear, some people want status symbols and buy something just because of a name or price tag. does a mercedes do a better job of getting you from point A to point B than a kia? no, but im sure if you had the means, you would entertain the thought of putting a benz in the driveway (with focal speakers in it). be an educated consumer and buy what fits your needs.

the only measurable difference i see here is looks, and even that is subjective. BL's have boob dustcaps, Havocs are dishes. i personally feel the havoc is "sexier" the loud part is going to be install dependent. and unless you are chasing tenths of a db, i dont think you could lose with either sub. they are similar in design and power handling and short of comparing a cross section of the motors, i dont think you would be able to tell them apart. the price should be comparable on them as well. flip a coin if you have to and pull the trigger all that said, i have a havoc 18 listed in the for sale area that might be of interest to you.

i scuffed mine with a DA starting at 100 grit, then 220, then 400. then 2 coats etching primer, 3 coats color, and 3 coats clear. wet sanded the last color coat with 2000 grit to knock down the orange peel. wetsanded again after the 2nd coat of clear. it looked top notch once i was done. but it didnt last. ive been told that an adhesion promoter would reduce the size of chips, but bare metal is the way to go. ill see if my buddy has a sandblaster i can borrow. that will make it easier to get a uniform surface.

nice looking amp. i remember the old days of the tailgate sized amps (VLX400 anyone?). bigger can be better im still waiting to see something from you comparable to the memphis belle. i know you could do it right, just dont know if there is enough demand for a big 5 channel

dont worry man, its happened to most of us. just line the foam back up and put a dab of silicone on your finger. smear a little on both sides and let it cure for 24 hours or whatever is recommended on the package. itll be fine after that.

youll have a problem getting the paint to stick on the chrome. people tried to warn me, but i thought i knew better. scuffed it up real good, painted it, and it looked real good for about a month. now its got so many chips ive gotta figure out what im gonna do next. probably gonna take a flap disc on a grinder and take the bumper down to raw metal and try again.

come on. you couldnt fit 50? put one in each door and youll be set. cant wait to see the vids on this one

it was an slight exaggeration, but the point was there. too much gain/bass boost and not enough subsonic filter are the most common culprits.

you can easily blow a 1000w sub with 250w if you dont know what you are doing. it doesnt take long browsing the forums to figure out that a lot of guys need some help. say it with me now, "the gain is not a volume knob"

short of UPS messing up, everything went smooth as silk. luckily the driver should be salvageable and everybody is coming out ahead. except ups of course. fuck ups. was good doing business with you Stefan

i even bagged the packing peanuts so they wouldnt spill on your floor. it was a pleasure doing business with you Curt

i lol'd at the miley cyrus. but im not gonna hate, i got it on my ipod for the exact same reason.

start browsing around and asking questions. youll learn plenty here. youll also get tempted to go overboard too.

id stick to the alpines. their digital media receivers are nice. im using the w404 and very pleased with it.

glad to see a topic preview feature added. quick question tho, is there a way to unsubscribe to the [slash dot] feeds when viewing new content?

fab up a bracket to come down from your roof to hold the mirror. one of my old nissan trucks had the mirror attached to the roof like that and the map lights covered the brackets. never lost that mirror with 6 10s and 1000w

i can tell you are just getting started, so lets get a few basics out of the way. if you have a BTL then 1000w will work just fine, but you arent going to be maxing out your potential. if you are fine with this, get the 1000w amp. i would advise something in the 1500w to 2000w range tho. its always easier to start off with the "right " equipment than to have to buy something, sell it, and buy something else. that ends up getting expensive. as far as turning the sub on/off, yes you can do that with an EQ. But, you can also do that with a remote gain found commonly on larger amps. as far as your car and its electrical system, realize you need to do everything eventually. if you want to play with a big system, you are going to need the Big 3 done in 1/0, you are going to need at least 1 good battery, and you are going to need a better alternator. you can even do them in that order if you are on a budget. just realize that every thing you do is only going to make your system better. if you decide to skip something there will be consequences. like if you skip the alternator and get a second battery, then you will be fine until the batteries drain. you need to be able to recharge the batteries as fast as they are being drained. go too long without upgrading the alternator and you may end up with 2 dead batteries (fried is the wrong word. they will die from being overdrawn and cycled to death.) you may also want to read around on the12volt and bcae1.com. you will want to understand ohms law at least a little bit, and you will want a good digital multimeter and the knowledge of how to use it. and cheap and this hobby do not go together very well. you dont want the sound to be cheap do you? you get out of it what you put into it. so strive for quality equipment even if it means brown baggin it for a week or two.

the only difference there is the dealership will take your old one in on a trade and give you credit on the new one. too bad that rarely happens in the audio world.

youre almost there man. keep it up

what are you wrapping it in? you can get 1/4" high density foam at a craft store that is easily cut with an xacto knife or razor blade. print out the logo and trace it onto the foam, cut it out and glue it down. the logo design and material the box is wrapped in determines how good it looks. some logos turn out fine, but dont expect intricate detail. i think the sundown logo is going to be tough unless you make it huge.