scottxgtr

entirely possible. its not the space shuttle. its a small piece of metal covered with some plastic. the "inspect" part is what you need to do it you blew only one fuse. did it blow as in too much current and melted? or did it fail as in the metal simply cracked, possibly from vibration or improper installation or handling.

i highly doubt it. you have to realize that a fuse is a 2 cent part made in extremely large quantities. occasionally one leaves the factory that might not be 100% up to spec. the coloration may be off, the element may have a crack in it, etc. inspect it, test it, and if it is defective replace it.

sell it or recone it to a 15". an 18" sub might be louder than a 15" sub. but that doesnt mean shit if you cant fit it in the car.

it is operating as intended. the coil and motor are aligned properly, and when YOU push on the outside of the cone, YOU misalign the coil and cause the rubbing. No, there is not a noticeable sag. However, what causes them to loosen up over time? I just always thought that the cone was supposed to be "stiff" the cone is supposed to be stiff. the spider however is not. the spider of a subwoofer is like the suspension of a car. its job is to suspend the coil. and the material the spider is made of breaks in much like a pair of jeans that have been worn for a couple months. again, not a negative in any way, shape, or form. find a good article on the parts of a subwoofer with a cross section and youll have a better understanding.

when you check for coil rub, you should push straight down, preferably on the center of the cone. pushing on the outer edge, or unevenly on the cone can cause the coil to rub on a perfectly good sub. the only thing locating the coil in the motor is the spiders and the surround, neither of which is a solid mount. the coil "floats" and goes where it is pushed.

bass sounds real muddy on the video. i cant make a good diagnosis on it though because 1. its not a song im familiar with so i dont know how it should sound, and 2. im listening to a 15 woofer on a set of computer speakers. just for references sake, please tell us the settings on your amp and cd player so we dont miss any detail. so have you pulled the woofer out of the box and looked at it yet? or are you just going to keep playing it with it malfunctioning and hope it just magically fixes itself? (or blows)

he says he is fine with the output, but he also mentions his "friends" saying it should be louder. i would say just port it. you can keep the "SQ" if you build the box right and tune around the 32hz mark. you get the bonus of added output and if its too loud you can just turn it down. but before all that, find the source of the noise. go over everything with a fine toothed comb and pull the sub out and do an inspection. no sense doing a major overhaul just because you blew a speaker terminal cup to pieces or something similar

i thought the same thing when i read the title. then i saw it was a dodge. they have a rather large cavity behind the seat. i think the designer may have been a basshead the plan sounds good from what ive seen. you wont get anywhere near the "nasty loud" of that pair of 18s, but you could definitely get pretty loud with 5 cubes of space and 2500w. i would even entertain the thought of using a single 15 just so people who make stupid faces when you tell them you have a 15" sub behind the seat in a regular cab truck. haha

math? youll need to do a little planning and some math and make your own cut sheet. the dimensions are going to depend on how you lay your panels out. if you are having trouble with this part i would suggest getting a box built to your specs by one of the sponsors here or perhaps a local shop. if you cant get the math figured out you are going to end up messing up some cuts and spending a lot more on wood

depends on the quality of the mp3. the bitrate can vary depending on where you get your mp3s from. a higher bitrate will get you closer to cd quality sound, but it also makes the file size bigger so less music fits on the drive. also, does your cd player save different EQ settings depending on the source?

if the factory clear coat on the lens is cracking, youll have to sand it off. get some fine grit sand paper and start wetsanding. i did a set of lens off a tiburon a few months ago and had to start with 400, then 600, 1000, and finished with 2000. then i used some headlight polish on a powerball to get them crystal clear. so far they are only slightly hazing so theyll be due for a repolish soon. then ill actually take the time to put a lens film on them to keep them from oxidizing again. if you want cheap headlight film, try ebay. if you want quality, look for something from 3M. as far as the silicone comment, that is to prevent oxidation on the inside of the lens, where it is impossible to polish away. the oxidation is caused simply by being out in the elements.

after you polish them they are just going to oxidize again. so you either have to keep polishing, or you can get some headlight film to protect them. they make it in tints as well as clear. it normally holds up better than having them clearcoated

i dunno. you said width, height, and depth so im assuming you have measured your truck to get those measurements. if you want all the subs up, you need enough surface area to mount them all. you would have to lay the box pictured down on its back and run the port a different way. if i were building this box for this truck, i would build it as pictured, port up subs forward, with a 1.5" thick face and increase the size a little to add bracing and 45s on the corners.

perhaps a rough sketch will help.

negative the port opening is the hole in your box. so you would have a port opening 5.5"x12.5". so instead of the normal 4" round circle, you have a rectangle 5.5"x12.5". the depth is 24.5" so you could reach your arm into the opening 24.5" inches deep

on a slot port you figure your own port area depending on the design of the box. so you could do 5.5"x12.5" on the opening to get your 68" square inches of port. the length is how long the port is (how deep it goes into the box) plugging in the 45x20x14 into BBP6 minus the port displacement and .75" thick exterior walls im only showing 4.8 cubes. port is 5.5x12.5x24.5" long at 36hz. thats just rough numbers tho. what calculator are you using?

nope. nissan is nice enough to put a double din opening in most of their vehicles.

no, you need some Y cables to split your sub signal between the 2 behemoths. and the alpine units are great. im using the double din ixa404 and i love it.

as long as your car is running with no load, 14.4v is the optimal voltage under load it may drop to the high 13s but as long as it bounces back to the 14.4 you will be fine if you start seeing 12s or lower, your electrical system needs more power

depends on how frequently you have people in the back. personally, im usually the only person in my truck so the speakers are definitely driver oriented. i would run a really nice (active) set in the front doors only. in a larger vehicle the rear passengers will be asking you to turn it up if you only have a set of speakers in the front. so if you find yourself riding with 3 or more people on a regular basis (and you care about their opinions) then i would suggest the component/coaxial combo and set the fader a few clicks forward so the front still does most of the work, but the rear coaxials provide something for back seat passengers.

vibration is only bad if you can hear it. like your license plate, trunk lid, change in your ashtray, or other annoyances. feeling vibrations on the the box is perfectly fine. as long as you have it secured so it doesnt move around youll be fine. now the panels of the box flexing can be detrimental. i dont think that box is big enough to have to worry about massive flex but you could brace it if it helps you sleep at night.

for the same reason the tires only last 50,000 miles. they want you to have to buy another one when yours burns down. good question, but i really dont know. its the only logical answer ive ever heard for fusing the alternator output.

its insurance. the fuse is there just in case you get into a front end collision and the power wire gets pinched, which would short your battery and have the potential to turn a minor accident into a major fire and/or total loss is it necessary for operation? no. is it worth the $20 to put it in? depends on how much you value your car. im scared to ask, but how much does a shop charge to do the big 3, if you dont mind me asking.

ive got a brand new AA havoc 18 listed in the classifieds that would be right there with the BL and save you some coin

$1000 fine here + possible jail time for repeat offenders. the city has these signs posted up everywhere. i think one could possibly end up in my garage. lol