scottxgtr

youll need to find out what ohm load that amp is built for. home audio and car audio dont always mix in that department. research that amp and see if its peak power is at 4 ohm. if so, you should be able to get a Fi woofer that will work perfectly. if its peak power is 8 ohm, then a Fi sub will still work, but it might seem like its lacking the oomph you are used too.

are you allowed to use a podium in the class you compete in? that will solve the vibration problems. i know in some organizations you cant be inside the vehicle past a certain db level (150db i believe)

ive seen them used in power equipment as well. the scissor lift at my old job had 4 of them wired up to 24v. real heavy duty battery, and we abused the shit out of the equipment and the batts lasted several years

bookmark this thread for a revisit in 4 years and youll be amazed at how much youve learned. especially the differences in AC and DC that said, i wouldnt hook them up to the amps output. thats asking for trouble. and leds vary in voltage a little but most go up to 4v. sometimes if you buy on ebay they solder a resistor and some wire and call it "12v ready" so make sure you know exactly what you have. any mistakes will result in dim leds or burnt leds.

the first thing i would do would be to remove the sub and inspect the box and sub inside and out. have you done this? second, i would recommend going over your amps settings again and make sure you arent clipping the signal, overheating the coil, and sending your sub into a premature failure.

thats sort of a myth or old wives tale. certain construction adhesives and silicones let off a gas as they cure and the myth is this gas reacts with the surround and degrades it. in my experience, i have never seen such a thing. and besides, you should be using wood glue anyway, which doesnt do any of that nasty out gassing. as far as the box, it will behave like a 6th order bandpass, or what the12volt calls a dual reflex bandpass the center section will act as a port so its size and length will act to tune the front waves from the sub. that said, you're probably going to be in experimental territory on this one. i wouldnt know where to start on figuring this one out. i had a friend try it with 8 12s in a blow through on a single cab chevy. he didnt really do much math on the center section and just ballparked it. ended up sounding decent, getting loud, etc. but you never know if there was missed potential there.

not until you mentioned it. not like living in biloxi is something to brag about either. haha

2 hours is nothing. ive driven 8+ hours to go to worthy shows. the bass is out there. you have to go find it.

crimping 1/0 with a hammer is vague. before i got a vice, i used a large flathead screwdriver that had a broken tip. ground it so it had a nice flat wide point pounded it in the center on the terminal with a 3lb mini sledge. is it as pretty as the hydraulic crimper? no. but that terminal was on there good. once i got a vice i started pressing a piece of 1/4 solid steel into the center of the terminal in a similar manner as described above. works just as well just less noise and risk of bodily injury. if i could come across one of those crimpers for $30 id probably splurge on it, if i had a project coming up.

"10% is the Equipment and 90% is the Installation" just means you can spend as much money as you want, but if you clip the amp or your box isnt built to specs, then even the most expensive equipment can sound like shit. welcome to the boards. youll find lots of valuable information here

i thought nick bought someone elses (chad maybe?) old hardbody? that one belongs to pipo. you can google that. his car domain page: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2149125

i see as well. N1 has a single neo slug, offset to one side N2 has dual slugs, horizontally opposed that just leaves the N3 which, following whats been shown already, should look like the prototype with the Y shaped plate. the SG though has me wondering. the other SG(superguass) woofer i know of has 2 motors. the thought of 2 N3 motors bolted together is insane.

what do you have in mind instead of the W3? and what is stopping you from ordering it, removing and selling the W3, and using just the enclosure?

clipping destroys speakers, you know. irony. clipping destroys speaker and here we are talking about a malfunctioning speaker. pics would help us better understand. the lead is just as long as it was when it came from the factory. so perhaps you soldered it too far, or oversoldered it so it is less flexible. you could make an extension of the terminal with some copper wire and solder to that, pending it doesnt cause an obstruction. also, does your btl have the spl option?

im running a havoc 12 off on a sundown 1500d with no issues.