Tremonic

SN looks familiar... face in avatar looks familiar... wudup man! Nothing much. I registered over here about a week ago. Not a bad forum. So have you had any of this stuff tested yet?

So wiring them together @ 1-ohm or wiring them seperate @ 2-ohms isn't gonna make much of a difference?? You have 2 DVC 1ohm subs correct? Wire each sub in series to bring them up to 2 ohms. There appears to be 2 channels on the amp but it's really only one. It's internally paralleled. So when you wire each sub up to 2 ohms and then hook one sub to each channel your paralleling them to bring your final load down to one ohm.

If you wire the amp to 1 ohm they will get 500 watts a piece. Wire them in series (2 ohms a piece) and hook each of them up to a channel on the amp. The sundowns are internally paralleled so when you hook it up this way the amp will see a 1 ohm final load.

Hmmmmm don't I know you? lol

I would say a company that has held payment for months and months and months and months and made promises and promises and promises and promises but no product has actually been provided and recently information is not very forthcoming is accomplishing the task of ruining their own reputation all by themself. Put yourself in the buyers shoes. Rather than call them douchebags, I'd say they've been SIGNIFICANTLY more patient and respectful than I would have been if I were in the same situation. And contrary to the way most of these situations have gone, almost all of the buyers have been very respectful in their requests for information from Troy in this thread. Though their frustration is understandably increasing the longer this thread runs and the more time goes by with no updates or information. I really fail to see how posting their situation and requesting an update on the situation on his official public forum (requests that have gone unanswered, mind you) makes them douchebags or them being the ones ruining a companies reputation. There's only one person who can ruin Troy's reputation; that would be Troy himself. A company's reputation doesn't hang on whether or not they have issues, as almost all companies will at some point, but rather how they handle themselves during the issues that do arise. And that is all on Troy. Thank you sir. I agree 100%.

Correction. He lives in Conway, SC. About 15 minutes outside of Myrtle beach. He owns a couple of houses around there. You need to get with us Troy. I know you have been on this site within the last week and read all of these comments. This will catch up to you if you don't make it right.

Well now his email is somehow magically not accepting what I'm sending him anymore. Imagine that shit. Guess I'll have to make a trip to Myrtle Beach. That's where this guy is supposedly located everyone if you would like to try and meet up with him face to face.

I've always used Titebond II and I have never had an issue and I've done some big builds with big high power subs and high pressures.

Thank you yea I saw these specs and saw it said wired remote but just wanted to make sure that it was a knob remote. Yes and the good thing about these is that it's a gain control, not a bass boost knob. I also believe that when you set your gains if you turn the knob all the way up you only reach what your gains are set at. It doesn't act like your turning your gain setting on the amp all the way up.

I would also check all your connections at the back of the HU. You might have a wire shorting or a bad connection on the power wire. When you start turning it up the vibration could make it short or current draw is making the power wire arc and lose connection which could be why it is shutting off.

HiFonics aren't bad amps. They'll do rated or a little more and are cost efficient. I don't know why they said that. Lanzars Opti line is good stuff. The rest of their stuff is low line and won't do near rated. Crunch, Power Acoustik, Absolute, SPL, Autotek....... I wouldn't buy. If you really want the cheapest price go with Audiopipe. I'm not a fan of them myself but they do rated and they're cheap as hell.

Claimed dead at 12.56V? That's not dead by any means. That battery will be fine especially if your holding at 12.9 after a bit of a rest. Your good to go. I think it was the CCA part of the test that mainly failed it.. They put the battery as 800CCA but when I contacted Kinetik they said these batteries are not intended for those ratings since it has a whole different purpose?? I'm more inclined to believe the manufacturer as I see no reason for them to make this up... CS from Kinetik has been great... They responded to my email within an hour both times. The guy I've dealt with is David Lengacher... Amazingly helpful.. I'm thinking he is receiving email on his BB or something cuz it was damn quick at 9am !!! :drink40: Yes CCA in this application means nothing. It's the rating of the amperage that a batt can deliver from 0 - 30 degrees for 30 seconds before it drops below I believe 10.2 volts. The AH is the most important rating to look at when dealing with this app. If a batt has a 100AH rating then that means it can deliver 5amps for 20 hours or 25amps for 4 hours or in our app it's more like 100 amps for one hour (you can break it down further going into minutes). Basically how much it can burst. It's good to hear that the CS is that good. Gains a little bit of respect from me for that company.

Claimed dead at 12.56V? That's not dead by any means. That battery will be fine especially if your holding at 12.9 after a bit of a rest. Your good to go.

I'm more than willing to listen but not without support... Any reason for staying away from Kinetik? I've got a HC1800 under the hood and it has provided me adequate support for my system... Have you had a bad experience??? Please share... There are alot of "which battery should I get" threads around.. SO please search so you can be more informed than "don't buy this, or stay away from that" crap advice... Because I have seen Kinetiks fail under less than brutal conditions. I have also seen what would be considered major gains (for only doing this one small thing) from simply switching batteries from Kinetik to XS or NSB batts. It's just my experiences with them. I'm not trashing the company, they make some decently strong batts. Just saying that there is a lot better out there. And as far as your comment on my advice, he asked for it. If he wanted to do the research and look around like most of us do then he wouldn't be on here asking such a simple question. So, that being said, I will still say "stay away from Kinetik" and go with one of the other brands. Wasn't that better than just saying stay away from said company??? I know I'd just pass your information had you not supported it... just saying... it's crap if you don't give more I agree. I should have supported it in the first place and I usually do. At the time that I made that post I had several things going on so I didn't elaborate. I said that because I knew in my head what the deal was. So anyways, sorry OP to jack up your thread here. Onward and upward.

As far as batteries I am not a big fan of Kinetik. This is just from my experience with them so don't write that in stone. A lot of people have had good experiences with them. So that being said Kinetik uses the wattage that the battery will support as the item numbers meaning the HC2400 is said to be able to support 2400 watts as an extra batt so from what they say 1 of those for each amp will be fine. I would personally buy 3. XS is well known for their product but just as an FYI the D3100 is said to be able to support 4000 watts as an extra batt. These depend on your budget. NSB makes some really strong batts as well as Remy batts which make the Deka 9A31's so those are options also. DC Power would be my recommendation for your alt if you can afford it. They're great. I have 2 of the 270XP's but only have one on my truck right now (still waiting on the bracket for the 2nd one) and it is charging 5 XS Power D3100's with no issues at all (one under the hood and 4 in back). While driving I don't even drop below 14V with 5K running on it. So yes I would definitely recommend DC for your alt but all of this is based on your budget. Speaker wire: 8 gauge or bust.

I'm more than willing to listen but not without support... Any reason for staying away from Kinetik? I've got a HC1800 under the hood and it has provided me adequate support for my system... Have you had a bad experience??? Please share... There are alot of "which battery should I get" threads around.. SO please search so you can be more informed than "don't buy this, or stay away from that" crap advice... Because I have seen Kinetiks fail under less than brutal conditions. I have also seen what would be considered major gains (for only doing this one small thing) from simply switching batteries from Kinetik to XS or NSB batts. It's just my experiences with them. I'm not trashing the company, they make some decently strong batts. Just saying that there is a lot better out there. And as far as your comment on my advice, he asked for it. If he wanted to do the research and look around like most of us do then he wouldn't be on here asking such a simple question. So, that being said, I will still say "stay away from Kinetik" and go with one of the other brands.

Yes it is crazy. It's flat out rediculous. I have heard good things from other forum members that know this guy and they say he is a straight up guy but I don't see it. I'm thinking something more along the lines of we all just got our money stolen. What a croc of shit. I'm about to blow his email up with 20 emails today. NO WAY he will be able to say he "didn't receive them because his phone has been acting up".

I'm going to bump this from time to time so the public can see what's going on here. Over the last week I have sent three emails with no response. If I get my bracket I will be just as quick to post that in this thread also. Troy where are you? You have peoples money (including mine) and are not communicating with them at all after repeated attempts to contact you.

Stay away from Kinetik, Stinger is pretty good, XS is better. Then you have NSB's and also Dekas both of which are solid batts and cost less.

I would go with the 2500 and set it for 2000 so you have a little headroom. I would not do the 2 amps on one sub deal. No reason for it and you risk damaging the sub if they're not gain matched correctly.

I would just like to say that I currently run dual 270XP's and I love them. Strong alts. Do a little over what they're rated at, and my CS experience with this company was spot on. Quick replies, fast shipping and the product came just as described. Don't let 1 or 2 negative experiences that people have had (and started threads all over the place about) ruin your opinion about a good company. EVERY company has some mistakes and smudges on their record. Now. Haters unite!!!!

Well I saw a forum friend of mine from another forum introduce himself so I figured I would do the same. I'm 32 and big on car audio. My current equipment is, 05 4 Door Dodge Ram Daytona Edition Dual DC Power 270 XP's 180' 1/0 Welding Cable Sundown Audio SAZ-4500 5 - XS Power D3100's 2 Orion HCCA 12.4's in plexiglass topped box. Pioneer DEH-P7200HD Pioneer Mids / Highs Pioneer 800 Mids / Highs Amp. I live in Augusta GA. Any questions are welcome. Hello SSA!!!!

Thank you sir!

BTW guys thanks for all the welcomes.

What's up dawg!! Yeah lanman used to spin on cardboard like he was on ice.