Tremonic

I understand what your saying but even so it will be more of a strain on the alt. Discharge a regular battery and then discharge one twice its size and the bigger batt takes more to charge. Hence more of a load on the alt.

No problem man glad I could help

The grounds do not need to be fused. Yes every run of positive needs to have a fuse on both ends. If your wire shorts somewhere in the middle and there isn't a fuse on both ends then it will not disconnect from both batts and will sit there and ark until it catches something on fire. Every run of positive from one batt to another needs fuses on both ends no more than 18" away from the batt unless you have a battery bank and your running from one batt to another while they're sitting right next to eachother.

Nice. So any type of ballpark figure on price? I know it could change but I would like to know something half way close as far as price.

Run a positive from the front batt to the back batt and you can frame ground the rear batt. Just be sure to grind off the contact area for the ground. As far as being hard on the alt it's all a matter of current draw. If you constantly draw the batts down and the alt has to recharge 2 instead of 1 well common sense will tell you that yes, it will be harder on the alt. But for your setup (as long as it's still the setup mentioned in the other thread) you should be fine. Again make sure you do the big 3. When you make the run from front to back fuse both ends of the wire no further than 18 inches away from each batt.

I'm very interested to see the test results on these subs. I iz watching

I agree that tuning is a little low. The HCCA's like to be tuned from 32 to around 36 depending on your preference. The box volume sounds good though as they don't need a huge box to get loud (you can throw em in about 2.1 after disp. and they'll like it). I will say this though if you can ever get around to throwing your electrical some upgrades those subs will handle 3K daily as long as it's clean. Those are some beast subs for sure. I love mine.

Nice review. Great info. I am curious to see your review on the welding wire. That is what I have and I think it's great but I want to see how it stacks up against these other brands. I'll definitely be watching. Thanks for taking the time to do this.

Exactly. "Box rise" is really only a major concern to a burp box to figure out the final wattage and impediance load. When your listening to music your rise is going all over the place depending on enclosure, port, the music etc etc. To the OP for 1500 watts get a solid batt under your hood and a decent 100AH batt for the back. If your alt is actually a 150 amp alt then you should be fine as long as your wiring is the correct size and done properly. Remember that the quality of your grounds is just as important as anything else. And as far as the performance of the sundowns at 1 ohm, they do great. You can run these amps at .5 ohm if you want to but as stated before your efficiency goes down and current draw goes up.

What amp?

LOL

Troy is making things right which is great. This has been an unfortunate debacle but again, in the end he's making things right. Good job Troy for stepping up and taking care of business.

If you can get 12's that will handle an honest 3K for $300 a pair then I would jump on whatever deal your able to get.

I called and ordered mine and received them very quickly. Sorry to hear your having an issue.

I'm in Augusta, GA and work as a military contractor and I love it. If any of you live near a base I would highly suggest trying to get on with the companies that support that base.

Nice work. I'll be watching.

Well the wire is good stuff. I would still have the alt bench tested. Again not that I doubt DC (hell I run their product) and I'm definitely not saying they don't know their sh*t or anything like that. I don't want to be misunderstood here. It's just that sometimes weird things happen. Seeing his post saying that he doesn't understand why your having the issue (and I don't either) would prompt me to do it as a just in case. And maybe try throwing the smaller pulley back on just to see the result? I'm just throwing ideas out there for the proccess of elimination.

I was having belt slip issues, or so we thought. Voltage is more steady now since changing pulleys and my wiring changes. But voltage will bounce from 13.6ish to 15.3 occasionally, I have a feeling this is on clipped songs that are boosted to high in recording (decaf and shizzon tracks). I do not think I need another battery, I hope not. Maybe another set of 1/0 runs? I posted in the XS Power subsection to get Nathan's advice too. So 13.6. So where you actually having belt slip issues or was that just a theory? As I said before you can try a dedicated run straight from the alt to the rear batt and I'm sure that would help. What kind of wire are you using? I'm not saying anything bad about DC but have you had the alt load tested to see if the output is what it should be? If it's putting out like it should then this is just plain odd.

I know this is late but welcome from Augusta GA here.

First off what exactly is your voltage jumping around to? (you may have told me this already and I forgot) Man the only other wire addition that I can think of that will benefit you is a run straight from the alt to the back batt and a ground run straight from the back batt to the alt ground that you have up front. You pretty much have your other bases covered. NM. Just went back through and looked. Yup, something is definitely off.

Yes grounds grounds grounds. I actually have more grounds than batts (not that you have to have it that way) but again I like overkill. Grounding to the body is a no no though. Get your grounds to your frame. If you ground to the body then it can only transfer through the connecting points which is bolts and that only leaves the contact point in the threads which is not sufficient. Get the grounds on the frame and if you want to do it up then run a ground from the rear batt / batts to the block.

Glad to see your getting it worked out man. Nice looking wiring also. Good looking install.

So these batts are grounded to the wall of the trunk? If so then that's an issue. They need to be at least frame grounded. If you want even better current flow make a run up to the block also.

I would love to see the tests ranging from 14.4 - 16 on all the different amps if anyone knows where that could be.

oh ok. so the largest xs that will fit under the hood and 1 d3100? does that sound about right? and that should solve my problem? The D3100 will not fit in most oem locations. What type of vehichle do you have? He's going to use the D3100 as his extra. Not under the hood.