emperorjj1

lets put it this way i had access to a powerbass 3kw at the shop for cheap since i work there but paid double to get a sundown

what size is it? i have a spare old sx dustcap(says RE only) and an old XXX dustcap both 15s

who did you talk to btw? i can try hitting up my rf rep to see if he knows any info (they may all of a sudden have parts for a dealer that were backordered for normal customers but i wouldnt expect it)

well its still reconable at least no?

dont think so

getting off that cap shouldnt be much of an issue. you have to be careful but once its off you can ca glue that inner cap back on (the top is really cosmetics where the inner really is the "dust cap")

with any of those complicated woofers your not going to get any kind of recone by anyone but the manufacture

pico fuse?

x2

pix

not sure if rockford even sells the kits or they just do them in house. GL reconing that bitch. If it makes u feel any better one of our customers at the shop has 3 re 8s blown by a shop when they cranked the gain crossover and every knob they could find on his amp. 3sixty FTW just mute all the outputs and dont worry.

sweet. i bet that's whats giving me issues right now. Amps been doing very good thou. Doesnt even get close to hot and im hella happy with the remote gain knob. Thanks for everything

As of today i finally have 99% of my wiring finished for my second externally regulated alt. Im going to get a volt meter of some sort so i know exactly where I'm sitting at voltage wise at all times (just in case the knob is bumped or any other unforseen issues) So for the next week or so im going to have a very small fuse on both the alt wire and amp wires just to be extra safe. I was just wondering how many of you guys are running the 3000d at 16v (18.8)? and if there's any thing i should know? I'm trying to be as cautious as possible to make sure nothing goes wrong but i thought id ask for advice from the experts

quick question for ya jacob. if the amp is at 16v does the remote need to be at 16v too?

13v is the remote. the remote is connected to the HU which is off the 12v stock electrical. I actually have a voltage guage and it normally reads ~18v. Lowest ive seen is 15.6 or something like that for half a second with the car off and playing it for a while. I wouldnt think that wouldn't explain the cutting out but i'm open to any suggestions

I have a cobalt that comes with the battery in the trunk stock. It was grounded to a piece of sheet metal that was spot welded to the wheel well. I had to remove said piece to fit the 2 extra kinetik hc16v running off the second alt. Any way i have all the batteries grounded with 2/0 to one spot (sheet metal) and the amps hu and processor are also indirectly grounded to the same spot. The only thing audio wise not connected to this one spot is the second alt which is grounded in the engine bay instead. Even as such I've experienced tons of ground loop. So the past few weeks I've spent rewiring my car and doing some tricks to eliminate the ground loop. The hard work paid off because there's no longer noise with the car off (ya i know) and other then the tweeter amp (301x) there's no more alt whine. So right now the only issues I'm having is the slight noise in the 301x (used to be louder then the music so i'm happy) and what sounds like my sub amp (saz-3000d) cutting out. Now i know the sundown isn't cutting out do to low voltage running at 16v and the only thing that half makes sense is possibly the RCA's to that amp but im pretty sure thats not the issue. So my question is do you think if i were to run another ground to the actual frame of the car that would make any difference? And any ideas on what could cause the sundown to act like its cutting out? (Works fine on the bench, has solid 2/0 wire connections, and the protect light doesn't light up at all)

the vegas buildhouse did close. They are now located in cali. If they build woofers there i dont know, prior to the move the MT, and SX were built in the US with the re, sr and se in china

i didn't ground the rcas to the HU but since its a pioneer i fixed the "pico fuse" internally which is normally fixed by grounding the rcas at the HU. i did check the remote wire and it reads fine. Ill add a relay if necessary but voltage on the remote isnt dropping and doesnt read low at all

bump

correct. i thought u were replacing the stock mids?

second skin is the chit

how much do you want for said broken amp?

oh forgot to add... i have everything hooked up to the HU remote as is. The voltage doesn't look funny at all and is reading 13.__v at the sundown. Should i wire up a relay to the remote?

if scott cant get you something u can always check out the hertz hv200

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