theabunai

I still love the graphite best

cause they are dealer based now not direct sales or internet sales... this means that each dealer has their own profit margin to make thus different prices in different areas... It's not a secret but rather one shop may sell them a bit more then another so to avoid price conflicts it's all done through dealer based... AA has a new way of doing things you email them and they direct you to the nearest location you can go to get your AA sub... nick is one of the gues you could say Regional guys for AA... he can direct you to the nearest dealer and if there is none he can direct you on how you can get an AA sub....

Nothing is wrong with MTX.. But the BL Has a top notch build to them, sounds better IMO, Can handle more watts, can be re-coned easier, better customer service, can add options to it so it can be tailored to your system or taste and the 15" BL is hella cheaper, then two 12" sledge hammers..

Careful now a gain is NOT a volume knob.... It is a very touchy thing the gain... what i suggest you do is put your gain to the softest sounding setting then turn deck on 3/4 volume example if your deck goes up to 40 then put it to 30 which is 3/4 of the max volume Then go back to where the sub is... Slowly turn the gain so as to bring the level louder... Once you start hearing distortion (which is relatively easy to hear) back the gain down till you don't hear it anymore.... then you'll be all set (short of an oscope anyways) with your gains....

It will be like this one wire from amp + to terminal cup + then to the + on one coil.. then you take another piece of wire and twist it with the wire in the first coils terminal and then run the new wire you just twisted together to the 2nd coil + then done... The same for negative...

Dark you really don't need to wait... you can run from the terminal cup to coil 1 + then to coil 2 + same for the negative side... You do not need to use both terminals on the amp...

Right if you have a mono block with 2 outputs then you would go one set of outputs to one coil on the sub and the second set of output to the 2nd coil on the sub... be sure you wire + to + and - to - from the amp to the terminal cups to the subs coil...

Yeah kandiman we both saw the same part in his posts LOL

Could you explain your wiring of the sub ? one wire on the + side and one on the - side... SSD come in Dual coil config that would mean one wire to coil 1 + and then another one to coil 2 + and the same with the negative side like so Or Series for 4 ohms

Mark there is no dealer in hawaii... sucks

SPL oriented would be more in the 40 ~ 50 hz range... tuned low would be in the 25 ~ 30 hz range... In the middle would be 32 - 34hz range... Fi recommends the 32 - 34 hz range and i have to agree it's a nice trade off ... It will get low and put up some solid numbers should you decide to meter it in a local comp..

It would be as easy as removing the box itself. This is of course considering you don't mount anything to the box... It's rather easy... I removed my boxes from my trunk when we used to go shopping at Sams club... wasn't a bother and was a great upper body work out LOL

You sure could power the BL's on a single Sundown saz-1500D... Peak performance is not only derived from watts.. It is also a makeup of the install, signal strength, enclosure and use of crossovers... I can send a BL 500 watts and with the proper install and enclosure get peak performance out of it... With a single 1500D the BL's will definitely sound spectacular given the right enclosure... They will be just fine with 750 a piece... can they handle more then 750 a piece ? yes... do you HAVE to give it more ? absolutely not... This will also give you room for the upgrade as i mentioned... if you are fairly new to the car audio scene you will inevitably want to go louder.. this will leave you room to upgrade in either way... You can sell the amp and upgrade to a model that gives out more power or go with a 1500D per sub (careful though as your speakers impedance will also dictate your options)... Will the SSD have a huge difference in bass ? if you build the proper enclosure not at all... huge is a big word though but tonally if you built the proper enclosure for both subs there would be very little difference in sound (to the ear)... as for output.. well the BL is capable of having more output based on RMS and physical make-up of the sub... but once again output is also enclosure dependent. People who haven't played extensively with a BL will automatically say it has no low end due to its Fs parameter.. I do know about the FREE AIR resonance but last time i checked with a few of the speaker designers from reputable companies other parameters affect the ultimate performance as well... then again i may be substantiating peoples idea of low end... my idea of low end is in the 32-34 hz range which is EXACTLY where the BL's prime output is for daily... If the people who don't appreciate its response to 30hz and below well then i have to agree the BL doesn't like to go that low.. but then again i don't know of many SONGS that you listen to daily that have beats lower then 30 hz for a majority of the song... facing the sub up in your vehicle may work for you.. but you must consider other options... facing subs and port rear would "usually" yield a louder and lower sound due to the cars ergonomics and other technical terms, yet facing the sub up and port to the rear may yield a different outcome... my advice would be to ask a few people who have your vehicle or something similar to your vehicle (like muranos, or rogues, lexus looks the same rear cargo area as yours) what position they faced their subs and port (yes they BOTH make a difference) and why they decided to go with that configuration...

First of all lets get a few things straight The BL can hit the lows as good as a Q can.... That is enclosure dependent... I will have anyone who says that come on and meet up with me and hear the difference of the two subs (Q and BL) in a proper box.... and you will see the BL can put out some lows as good as the Q... I don't know why people say the BL can't hit the lows good... maybe questionable box building/tuning... We had the BL in a box tuned to 29hz and it was a low end beast.... The SSD sound phenomenal I should know i've owned them one of the first production runs.. Before i continue let me say that i have heard every single Fi sub model and size made to date (with the exception of the new BTL) so my comments are based on actually hearing and playing with tem and not on what other people have to say... I work at a car audio shop and have extensively worked with nick and scott on getting the most out of each sub in a given application. so i'm not just going on what i read but rather what i've heard and worked with... SSD's are outstanding subs... what separated them from the other line is wattage really... with the copper coil option they can be wonderful SQ subs that would give the Q a run for it's money... get the new BP option and throw some power to them and they can give the output comparable to a stock BL and have low end craziness... If you want a low powered sub stage then these are the subs for you... Great SQ with the ability to get low and loud... break your window loud ? no.. loud enough to hurt the ear ? yes... The Q is Fi ACCURATE sub line... SQ is too much of a subjective word to use... these subs hi with tonal accuracy.. they will reproduce accurate drum beats instead of dragging the bass across them... they can get loud as well and retain their accurate beat... They can hit the lows as well... if you want tonal accuracy then the Q outshines the others in that category... BL to me and what i've heard is simply a BTL made for daily music playing... they get freaking low and loud on the bottom end BUT can also be tuned higher for output in SPL comps without sacrificing too much SQ.... The SQ is penominal on either side of the tuning chart (low end down to 25 hz up to those 50hz fart boxes)... exceptional musicality with the ability to eat up some power and giv you that crazy output you want to shake your rear-view mirror off... We've tuned these things down to 29hz off a saz-1500D and was able to hit a 144 at 32hz in car frq on a TL.... so for those who say they aren't low end monsters i'm baffled... BTL... simple.... loud as hell and retains the level of a daily sub characteristics... can be low end beast when tuned right, can do thousands of watts with a smile and has proven itself in the world finals they can put up world record numbers in it's class.. what more can you say... OF COURSE all of his is enclosure dependent... I can make the BTL more accurate in sq then a Q with the right enclosure.. I can take the Q and have it output a louder low end then a BL... I can have the SSD put up better numbers then a BTL could.. because everything is box dependent... Now as for your amp... simply put.. you get what you pay for... those amps are great amps... but for your budget get an amp from a company that will provide exceptional customer service and warranty... out of those amps what's there warranty ? how difficult is it to warrant an amp ? is the customer service top notch? these seem like mute points but quite frankly i don't want to give someone who is there prior to buying the amp 500 bucks but once they have your money aren't around after that... I'll get to the point get a Sundown amp.. great CS, warranty and you can even speak with the person who designed the thing.. PERSONALLY here on these forums... If i were you I'd get 2 12" SSD with copper coils and a sundown 1500D the subs are under 500 and the amp can be got for under 500.... Tune the box to around 32 hz ported with about 4 cubic ft after displacement and around 50 square inches of port area... This will give you roughly 750 watts per sub.. amp pus out 1500 watts.. 2 subs on the amp they share that total wattage amongst each other.. so 1500 / 2 = 750 a piece... If you think you will upgrade get the BL's and a 1500 watt amp... if you want more later you can buy another sundown 1500 and go one amp per one sub... and be happy shaking houses I can assure you it will get low, freaking loud and sound damn good doing it.... it will shake your windows as well as your ass...

Not getting lows out of your system is PROBABLY due more to the enclosure then subwoofer...

Aaron you may be no scottA or any of the mentioned sub manufacturers but i am sure as hell confident you'd make a better sub then Ben could ever... Sorry never looked at the pics... I try not to give Ben any extra hits to his site... He may start to think he is better then he is... Oh wait he does think that... For those who think I am on the bandwagon of hating this company... I have history with them and there bullshit... First time i ever encountered an owner who would literally put down other products to make his shine Aaron if you ever gave him a spot here on SSA... I'd ask for you to delete my account... He cut me deep

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7154 As for your last question... Do you want the TOTAL (both speakers together) load to be 1 ohm or would you like each speaker to have a final load of 1 ohm..

Wooohoooo now to me that's a nice ass set up you got....

Now that's what i'm talking about bigjon !!!!!!! What's the quick rundown of the system, including box tuning and stuff ??

You gotta do some hula first LOL

So there really isn't much of a difference in sound from MDF and Baltic Birch....

polyfil tricks the sub into thinking it's in a larger enclosure then it is... here is a really good thread on it http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7168

From my experience with both... the JLw7 can get hella loud but all things being as equal as they could've been the havocs just sounded better and hellavuh lot lower... Let me clear that up a bit... It played the lower notes with better control then the JLw7... I would venture to say that the Havoc is a lot closer to JL's new w6.... The SQ is great on the havoc and it can get loud and low when it needs to...

What email program was the original sent to OUTLOOK, GMAIL ??

Flash videos streaming really degrades the quality... I'd search for TORRENT sites... DL uTorrent then get yourself a copy of Nero.... It's rather simple like drop and click