theabunai

Come again ????

Merc sorry i couldn't have posted about SubSonic Filters prior to your comp... It's okay bro i'm sure now that this has happened you've just educated yourself that much more and this will help you grow in the car audio world... BTW REPPIN FI TILL IT MUTHA FUKCIN BREAKS That's hard core

I have to disagree about the subsonic being a no biggy... I have seen 3 subs go bad before my very eyes.. A LMS ultra Tc sounds capable of over 4K mechanically rip with half it's rated power when we played a song that dipped below it's tuning at a low volume.... BTL went south (and the video is floating around i believe it was during the 12" challenge) when Lloyd them were testing it when it hit below tuning... 2 12" T2 in a ported box off of saz-1500D both crashed into the basket when they decide to play a chopped and screwed version below the boxes tuning... I think for ported systems with lots of power, subsonic is a pretty important thing... Many a Fi subs have had broken tinsel leads and burnt coils and by reading some of scott's and nicks posts quite a few are due to subsonic filters not being set properly...

So you are letting it play below tuning ?? That is a bit dangerous... subs tend to unload below tuning... not saying it's the cause, just throwing caution to the wind there...

What do you mean to big ?

Yes. This will raise the RF of the door, most likely. Adding mass will probably drop it back down. IMHO, once you cannot locate the driver, it's dead as dead. Foxpro i find this very interesting... I've never seen this... How would one go about doing this? let me clarify, I'm certain it will be attached either with a high bond epoxy or tack weld. but how would you form and position the cross brace ? Maybe i am imagining it a bit different (i'm envisioning a cross brace similar to what is holding the roof from rattling in the car) is this what you had in mind ? If you got a picture i would love to see an example of it...

Foxpro, or any other experienced audiophile, when you say "cross brace" do you mean a piece of metal across the surface or are you referring to a small strip of deadener across the surface of the door ??

your box is on the larger recommended side of the chart.. nothing wrong with that but i gotta ask, with that size enclosure, power and tuning so low what's your subsonic filter set at ?

no it's 6 x 20.5 = 123 square inches of port the 22.7 is the length of the port...

http://www.tequipment.net/Extech381295A.asp I'm partial to extechs

trevor i'd do the SSd's check your PM too i forgot about something to tell you

I noticed something about your video..... The led on the amp (power indicator) stays on when you turn the deck off at 37 seconds in the video..... That is an indication that voltage on the remote turn on is still present on the line or something All the sundowns i've put in on my customers that light goes completely off was the video done with the external relay on ? seems like there is residual power on the turn on lead so that means the amp is not fully powering down... then you are sending power back again and try to power up an amp that hasn't fully shut down...

That's why i posted what i did... Although he bypassed the external relay, having the speakers not connected could have put it into protect... When the speakers were connected he had the external relay on and the relay may have been putting it into protect... With the power supply, no speakers connected that could've put it into protect... So now the conclusion rest with the amp when in fact there are still variables to consider... It seemed to me the first place of interest in the remote turn on.. so we should isolate everything else... to take off all the speakers and rca then test the remote without the relay is correct BUT we should've also tested the remote wire without the relay with everything on.. this would rule out the remote wire if the problem persisted in both cases... if the problem solved itself then he may have saved himself the trouble of sending in an amp...

I'd say put the speaker wires back on, put the RCA's back on, take ALL OTHER AMPS/EQUIPMENT off the remote line.. hook it directly to the decks remote output and try it that way... you've changed to many things to narrow anything down... you tried to jump the remote to the batt but that was when you took off all the speaker wires and RCA's, I would isolate the remote wire without an external relay to the problem amp and reconnect the RCA and speaker wires... It could've been the remote turn on from the external relay putting it into protect originally, but when you tried to jump it maybe the discconected rca made it go into protect now, or the disconnected speakers... You may have solved the issue of the original protect mode but made it go into protect via another issue (no load on the amp)... I would remove the external relay completely, remove all other equipment from the remote turn on line, hook everything back up, hook the Sundown amp directly to the decks remote turn on, don't jump it to any other power source... try that...

If you have an Fi product you can get extra stickers from scott...

Try to remove your external relay and go from deck straight to amp on the remote turn on lead... see if anything changes

nick is scott gonna be in the office today ?

That fuking scares me... I have a tC with 2 3000D's going in there with a 300amp alt and 3 kinetik hc2000... I have a sunroof as well...

1. How old are you? 32 2. What age did you get into car audio? 14 yrs old 3. How did you first get into car audio? High school buddy who was a senior worked at an audio store 5. Male or female? Male 6. Your first Car? Toyota Camry 89' 8. How did you find out about this site? Tracking down a company called Fi car audio 9. What was your first system? soundstream amps, kicker subs, alpine HU and MB quarts 11. Were do you live? Honolulu Hawaii 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand? Fi car Audio/Sundown 15. Who is our hero in the car audio industry? Wayne Harris. 16. Whats your dream system? 4 Fi 15" BLs 4 sundown 3000Ds and 4 pairs of AA mids and highs off of 4 sax 100.4 17. Whats your dream car? Fully deadened Tahoe 18. Whats the fastest car you have driven/ridden in? Turbo charged rx 7 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products? Online 20. What is your job? Sheetmetal Journeyman (HVAC I am an AutoCAD Draftsman) fulltime, part time installer, part time graphics designer/php coder 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars? Toyota 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's? SUV's 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased? 2 Fi BL 12" 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA? Scott Atwell. jacob.. Helotaxi, neil, sean, Ramos and jimj 32. What is your personal best on the TL? and with what equipment? 142 2 SSD 12 sealed on 2 us amps md1's 33. SQ or SPL? why? SPL... cause i really do like to shake things with sound

Yeah with that much power I'd go the 8ga route... I had a friend running 2 3001BD RF amps he used 12ga and the wire used to get hot... don't know if it was due to thin shielding but we upgraded him to 8ga non-the-less

12 ga is fine won't hurt the speaker... If you're giving it over 2K i'd at least use the 10ga.. If your competing i'd use the 8 or 4 ga (chasing those 1/10th's of a point)...

Nick permission to use this line in my sig please.... this is the greatest line i've heard used to describe a sub... It's so true that it's funny as hell

Remember that Music is dynamic and it has peaks and valleys... not to mention recording volume. Not only is an oscope a good idea but i would also plot the impedance rise since your running that amp at such a dangerous load, you may find that wih the impedance rise/fall you may be taking that amp well below the 1/2 ohm mark and as nick pointed out, the lower the impedance the more current (heat) goes up as a result of the voltage increase......

Now that sounds cool as hell

Alex it sure would make it easier for us to design the system with 4 12's... Remember the pain we went through to even squeeze out the net airspace for the 4 15's LOL