theabunai

chit Hayn Fi with a cactus on a 17v system = Dammmmmmnnnnnn

jesus Christ jacob.... Is there no end to your madness LOL

0-600 and you hit 156.2 pucking sweet man Serious what amp did you have... if i am not mistaken pro stock 0-600 allows only one amp and unlimited batteries and max 18 volts... Damn dude lists the set up

What logo is a bass clef Tej ??

Hey quick question guys/gals I have an optima yellow top i just recently bought.... 34/78 I know others have mentioned hooking there bat straight to the cars battery (parallel if you will) without any problems, YET on the optima website it states: 9. Can I hook an OPTIMA up in parallel with my other battery? No, when hooking batteries together in parallel they should be of identical make, model, and of similar age. So can anyone confirm that there is no harm in hooking my optima in parallel with my car stock battery? tried to search this but found no info

Jimj that makes perfect sense.... liability I should've seen it that way lol Tirefryr - actually i don't plan on running the system with the car off, always with the car on.... I don't want an isolator as it causes resistance (so i hear)...And once i get another 50 bucks froma few side jobs i'm gonna get a Red top for the starter bat. The battery guy told me that optimas ESR value is low so it won't discharge the other battery quickly enough to cause concern and as long as i run my car within 48 hours it should be no issue (i work 5 days a week, go to school m, w and sat since i'm an 4th year apprentice in sheet metal/Air conditioning) so my car gets mileage... But then i read that statement on Optima and thought chit whats that all about... Oh and BTW thank you very much for the help and advise

yupp bagged some time in the seat... coupled with break in time and adjusting a few crossover points and gains Im sure you will be posting back your findings and a review i hope

actually you can make a box that will have the BL play louder at 50hz... or you can make it play louder at 30 hz... I think what you mean to ask is it optimized for the low end of the freq. range... the answer is it would rather play at 30hz than at 50hz...

Well if you do plan on facing the sub into the trunk (rear facing) i highly recomend some sound deadening for the trunk and rear dash.... I think IMHO that facing rear is more for sound quality facing them into the cab or forward is great for SPL

Does BL get low....? Is a frogs ass water tight ? LOL sorry always wanted to say that... BL's can get low (as well with any sub Fi makes) just remember that the enclosures is just as important in the "get low" equation..

4 x 12 or 16 = Port area so port area can be anything from 48 to 64 square in. of port area

Whats powering it ?? Wattage wise Damn ,man looks like a little someone was trapped in your hatch trying hard as hell to break out... Thought your spoiler wing was gonna rattle off LOL

[email protected] that's his email Be sure to email him the make/year/model of the vehicle and the Volt of the alternator you want (insuggest you ask himfor a RANGE of prices like 200 -350 amp alternators he will list them with price) you can ask him questions about running dual alts. (I am certain Steve Meade is running Dominick Iraggi 315+ amp alternators for his tahoe here is a pic of it http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/gallery/a...al_DSC02417.jpg )

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=2690 This is really good reading

The DMM probes go to the subs speaker wires coming from the amps speaker terminals So the black (negative probe) of the DMM goes to the negative wire/terminal of the subs and the red (positive probe) goes tot he positive speaker wire... And nick corrected my dcr value it's 1.4 not 1.7 (so many numbers rattling around my head)... remember it is always best to get the highest signal from the source of the system the HU... So make sure you did your 3/4 volume turn on the HU then adjust the system to that. When you use the HU as your source of main voltage the lower you can set your gains which makes for a cleaner and less stress free system and everyone plays nicely together...

Nick Stop trying to win that 250 dollar credit from scott..... j/k man Seriously nick knows his chit no wonder scott placed him on the slave list

its a hatchback i'd try the 1.2 sealed... you may be surprised what the output is

what is that a cargo van ?

Excessive current means the speakers is asking for something the amp can't provide... So the amp clips and goes into protect to protect the sub (it's a no no to send a sub a clipped signal)... DMM the amps voltage when the subs hit hard and see if anything even for a second dips below 12V... To DDM the ohms of the sub remove the wires from the amps speaker terminals put your DMM on the resistive setting (or OHM setting) and it should punch out a number... remember impedance varies from sub to sub so you may get a 1.75 and that is almost certainly 2 ohm impedance.... Also another way you can trouble shoot this to assure it's not a busted amp remove the speaker wires then pump up the volume if it goes into CUR then time for a new amp...

Most alternators is regulated at 14 volts because it is to remain higher than your battery voltage or else it wouldn't charge the battery.. So in short the 16V batteries won't charge past what the alternator puts out... You would need to upgrade the alternators for the right voltage (once again Irragi makes them and makes them well) just contact DOM for any question regarding alternators and voltage he is one of the best resources for knowledge... (if you need his email let me know).. He also has almost entirely pure bolt on alternators so no brackets are needed... Though his alternators are a bit pricey they are WELL worth the investment.... Also note that there is a BIG HUGE difference between 300 amp at IDLE and 300 Amps when cranking the motor.... trust me Dom Irragi knows his chit and knows it well... And YES you can get dual amp alternators they don't need to be same amperage.... You can use one alternator Purely for your system batteries and the second one purely for the vehicles electrical... Many configurations are available... Also be sure that your amplifiers are capable of a 16V load I know we hooked up an amp to a 16v electrical and the amp fried immediately... So just double check that...

Hey z1 don't worry mate... I'm the same way LOL

I agree with Helotaxi someone tell alpine that they can make pre-outs greater than 4volt

Sealed enclosures also are less forgiving in your box building and in my opinion have the better transient response of the two enclosures... Bare in mind though sealed enclosures usually have a high cut off point and lower sensitivity.... Sealed usually requires more power to get as loud as a ported enclosure (mistakenly some people think that sealed enclosure means the sub can HANDLE more power when in reality it will require more power for it). Ported systems IMO are ideal for one sub set ups since the port acts "like" the second sub... I feel they have less distortion and can handle a bit more output within the tuning frequency.... Once outside the tuning Freq. distortion increases... Ported enclosures also increase the low extension and offer much better SPL output... BUT there is little to no room for error on building ported enclosures... Last thing to note Ported uses more space then sealed....

In all honesty I don't think the ear can hear a difference in such little change in air space... A meter may but not the ear....

http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported...mp;Fs=&CE=0 just adjust the properties to match your sub Also try this http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html