theabunai

I had a pair of w6's 12 from JL And my SSD's made shame of them with LESS watts for half the price..... Swap for swap we did Here read this http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=7246#

Tej i totally agree with you on the "possibility to put more power on later" If you love car audio like i do Over kill is your friend lol

I do once my stupid cousin comes back from Las Vegas (one month trip) I can post my install and videos... He has my Digital camera and cam-corder

Trey that would depend on the amount of wattage and options you get... even the enclosure impacts a subs efficiency I suggest you contact staff of Fi That type of question should b asked to nick, shawn or scott directly nick and shawn are fast to reply so either Email nick or pm shawn)

Like the way you got the batts wired What is that a RAIL so to speak connecting the yellow tops

With a BL and all options it should handle 2K with no issues.... Actually the subs can make a difference on the electrical being if one sub is more efficient then the other.... but it wouldn't be the sub DIRECTLY impacting the electrical but the amplifier.. a less efficient sub will push an amp harder than a more efficient sub... So you can't say 2k on a BTL is the same as 2k on a Bl without any influx on the electrical... But dopey you are correct in that the sub doesn't directly affect the electrical but rather the amps do...

Biker dude i have a scion TC and the biggest box you can do in it is just about 4.2 cft..... i have two 12's in it a yellow top battery, two 20" Us Amps md.1d and a soundstream rub502 in the trunk and i still have room for groceries and my golf clubs or the kids sleeping bags and tent stuff.... though my box is only 2.1 cft BTW tC utterly slam just watch the panels on the columns running along the top pillar of the hatch... With only 2K watts i managed to rattle a pullpin till it cracked....

I would tune lower since the Woofer has alot of output potential below 40hz ported... Tune it to 33 ~ 35 (around 33 is the PEAK on the db chart) Then when you meter use a 33 hz Test tone.... In my opinion 40 Hz is a good range for Daily but for SPL you need to take advantage of the subs peak at 33~35hz range.... they recommend what they recommend at Fi for a reason... I did my own thing till i listened to what they recommended and i was pleasantly amazed at the output i got...

If at all possible Daner keep the box around the 2.0 area (2.0 would be ideal) You could tune around 32 ~ 33 hz and be amazed and what the output you'll get...

K slice Let me tell you... Not everything on paper is what it seems... If the installer is recommending you not get a sub cause of a T/S parameter then that just means he may not know how to build an enclosure... The enclosure is almost (if not more) important than the speakers T/S sheet.... Testimonials here should re-assure you enough that the BL can certainly hit low and loud.... Case in point is RMS RMS of a Q is rated at 1k but it easily takes 1500 watts and keeps on grinning.... If i took a speaker "A" with almost near perfect T/S and threw it in a crappy box and i took a speaker "B" with the poor T/S and threw it in a expertly crafted box speaker "B" would sound superior to speaker "A" but in this case get a GOOD speaker with a good enclosure and you get "award" winning subs (also known as Fi) Scott and the team have been building subs for a very very long time. he owned RE when they started and they became THE sub for Competition. now he owns Fi and his new subs are placing tops at major competitions trust me no matter what sub you get from Fi I can almost be certain you will be amazed and confident about your purchase..... Also FYI the NDMustang65 guy who replied in this thread... He works for Fi..... tech support/Sales etc etc... So he is more than qualified to answer any questions regarding the Fi product.....

Jeremy just started school nightly so he pretty much is not contactable... I believe his email is the same one registered here

Neon honestly I'd get a BTL When you hear hos good these subs are you're gonna want to power these things and i promise you'll end up wanting to go louder and lower.... get the Q if your set on loud and daily nice controlled bass with low SQ get the BTL if you know you're gonna want to upgrade the system in time.....

I see it now on the check out page tej lol

So what do we need to do for a pair of those scott lol

Mmmm aaron looks good man... (not to mention the price is ubber sexy) Well if you get tired of messing with it you can always ship one over to hawaii and let me wang the living crap out of it in the 4 boxes i have in my garage...lol Any specs on it yet aaron ? Fs, Xmax etc etc BTW I am about to rape your review section with a review on almost everything i own down to the freaking wires

Mmmm aaron looks good man... (not to mention the price is ubber sexy) Well if you get tired of messing with it you can always ship one over to hawaii and let me wang the living crap out of it in the 4 boxes i have in my garage...lol Any specs on it yet aaron ? Fs, Xmax etc etc

Guys i am fully aware that the flatwind and the coppercoils are two options you can not get together... My question is why can they not be done together (i am trying to learn all i can about the build of these subs for sheer knowledge) ? I was guessing that scott hasn't found the right coil for the flatwind to get a favorable response to have both copper and flatwind.... And if there is any great advantages to having both, WILL they eventually be a way to get both options? And if you guys were to find a way to incorporate both will the Q later have an option for the copper coil (I suspect the Q has a flatwind on it, thus no option for a copper coil)?

will do nick I figured i'd post it since i think like 3-4 threads have people saying flatwind and copper coil and one post said flatwind with the Q so for info sake i'd figure i'd post the question

i think ngsm was talking about this page https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/...view.shopscript it says "Add a chamfered pole or axial cooling channels. Need incredible Xmax to feed your 160dB at 20Hz obsession? Add a third magnet and our extended length coils (26mm of Xmax)." But shawn said 27mm so that is where the posts came all fudged !! I'd go with Shawns answer the website may be behind or have a typo...

thank you knowledge is power

there is an SAZ-1000 or did you mean SAE-1000? Wow an SAZ1000 would be sweet

Thewes If your looking for around 1500K watts I would also suggest a sundown saz-1500D Contact denim he can hook you up for a pretty good deal... (he is an admin on this board) Those amps are a beast

Scott, Nick or Shawn when will the announcement be about the 250 store credit be made ? Is there a date (i wanted to invite more friends over to the forums but they all think they are too late and won't make whatever "cut-off" date that is set for the grand prize).... thank you

ngsm ..... dibs on the rear right horse shoe

Personally and judging by the sub specs I would keep the tuning around 30-35 hz no lower no higher...