theabunai

Dopey here is what i do I will use all the links i posted and note down the differences between all of them.... then average it out... Or i just use one (mainly subwoofertools) Also just FYI Some programs DO NOT work in Liters or Cu CM they work in inches so you need to convert some of the T/S that are in Liters and CM Example The subs list Vas in Liters and some programs want it converted to Cubic inches try use this http://www.mhsoft.nl/conv1.htm just type in the liter box 58.7 (which is the Vas for a 12" SSD D2) and it will pop out all the numbers converted into the right measurement when you click into the box... This holds true for all programs so try to double check what measurement the program wants versus what measurement the site lists....

I don't know about the V-max but i do believe liljohn did a direct swap with his kickers and noticed a pretty good gain in loudness...

Or theoretically 4 times louder then it is now

Simply put Dopey Not all Programs are created equal

its up now last i saw was only like 5 or 6

It really surprises me how brain washed some installers get when they work for a company... they all nut hug the products they install... When i was installing i was so open minded i was the only "fool" (as i was referred to at times) that actually wanted to install outside Equipment.... Mainly cause i wanted to hear everything that was out there to better myself with knowledge and also to be able to spot great products for my own car....

I wasn't LOL

I can give 3 other calculators and when you plug in the exact same T/S parameters you will get a different design and output on each one... Bassbox pro winISD even online programs will all punch out different designs http://www.klausaudio.com/shop/custom-encl...oofer-boxes.cfm http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported-box.asp http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html My advice is PM scott nick or shawn and ask them to help you with the port length or whatever you are stuck with on your box design... they actually test the sub in ALL box dimensions and port lengths for ported and sealed... including all the different options.... trust me nobody knows a subs potential output BETTER then the manufacturer... Remember winISD is a Universal program it is not targeted to give you specifics for a specific design of a subwoofer... It is theoretically IMPOSSIBLE to make a program be able to cover all aspects of every subwoofer.. Furthermore Subwoofer developement has come a long way... XBL2 technology, cooling, copper coils, flatwind, can not be factored into the program but all have impacts on the T/S of the sub.... ngsm had the perfect example Real world testing by the manufacturer of the sub > universal subwoofer program

no face shot of the girl ?

I believe the Exterminators are over seas merlins board is stamped overseas ONLY everything else is designed and assembled US AX line is completely US made, stamped and designed in US

Bump cause of the pix of scott We finally have a face for the horse we've been talking about

Yeah i think the "shiny" parts on your amp made me think it was a reflection on some plexi glass LOL

Oh it looked like there was plexi glass on the top enclosing them completely Can you get some up close pics of the amp rack looks pretty good

is there fans to cool off the amps ?

The milk shake is the funniest thing i have ever seen man holy chit i was laughing so loud...

If you mean bigger (the 3.5") i would suggest maybe +4.0 or so (port noise can be a killer) If you mean more square inch just remember the longer the port the more area you get the lower the tune So yes if you tune lower then the subs peak freq response it can affect performance..

Same here JL, Kicker and MTX are the "bad-asses"here in hawaii... you guys keep this crap up and i'm gonna have to think twice about putting an Fi sticker on my car LOL

I got my Fi at 7-11 Grim....

WinISD is good to fine tune a box not for building ground up... Subs are so different these days.... When in doubt i would highly suggest you go with whatever Fi recommends (or any speaker manufacturer recommendation). I am certain Scott nick and shawn know more about the subs "potential" than some universal program

just the subs nick or the entire install ? I was working on a Fi team web page if your interested.... Sort of like a members webpage for people using Fi....

petey, A sub can play at any wattage under it's rated rms... People think that when they put little watts to a sub and the sub tends to "flutter" or "bottom out" they immediately think oh it's the sub... and in the case of underpowering they all say "You need more watts to the thing" for the WRONG reasons... There are many factors to why a sub "sounds" the way thy do given a lower wattage and almost 80% of the time it is due to clipping (the amplifier).... other factors is amplifier efficiency, sub woofer efficiency, enclosure and the cars electrical. WIll it handle it's 1200 watts being that it may be under RMS the answer is OF COURSE it will It may even suprise you (referring to comments like "they are loud and people think i have 15's when i have 12's are all testimonies of the subs efficiency) I myself did direct swamps with JLw6 and noticed the Fi played much louder at the same volume level In part it is due to the subs efficiency).. Now will it be loud enough for you Only you can answer that question. see if someone with an Fi can demo for you note their wattage and sub size and then draw a conclusion based on you ear... What is loud to ou may not be loud to someone like tej or tpjr the main point is you want a volume that will keep you satisfied to avoid the humans nature to "turn it up" forcing the amp to clip.... The Fi subs can take it without a doubt, but even superman had a weakness...

port wars the mic is placed in or near the port opening oh sorry jonny I read the description wrong i thought it was stock (i was just skimming to see the word HO or Iraggi) I would try another run of 0/1 to the rear batt. Try to rev your car when the bass hits and see if voltage drops.. If it s ok then you may need to upgrade the alt to one with more AMP output near idle (dominik has different HO alts if you let him kno he will price quote you for those)..... If it still drops even when at high rev I would just upgrade t a 300 amp... Wait does port wars allow you to run your vehicle ?

Congratulations you are now the proud father of two lovely Fi boys... Raise them well and feed them plenty.... as they grow older they get more fun to play with

To me the videos of peoples testimony is far more impressive then numbers.... Not to mention the Store window flexes you've done... Steve you gotta do another store/business window flex.... When we do BBq's and Beer at my house i always break out your videos and 99/9% of the time they all laugh at what you do to people with your stereo BUT without a doubt they all are in awe when i show them the window flex video.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/videos/meade07_768.wmv that is just some crazy chit..... The hair trick is old school..... Shaking windows is the new kid on the block LOL.

Jonny First off I am utterly impressed with you and your buds... to post those numbers with stock electricals is pretty insane.... You can add all the batts you want but if your alt can't handle the load you're gonna have voltage drops.... My suggestion Email this guy for a price quote for an Iraggi alternator.. [email protected] Also tell your friend as well... I can almost guarantee you'll beat the chit out of everyone at the next competition...