theabunai

Scott so the extra spider and changed spider pack is not available for subs already machined ? The emails i shared with you (about my SSD) which option would be best for me ([email protected]) and the cost (i'll be happy to pay for the cost of mailing the sub to and from Fi facility) if i got all options i can for my SSD's (2 12" copper coil D2)

power is not the only thing that can bottom out a sub... Leaky enclosure (sealed or ported) can contribute to mechanical failure

Sealed enclosure FTW x2

Is the popping sound like if someone held a Popsicle stick above the cone and when it moved it hit the stick ?

Here is a design i came up with Front of Shirt Back of shirt

in the sundown forum there is a thread with the power ratings for all voltage levels the MD2D can push 1500 at 13 volts (though the CES rating has it pushing out close to 1800K) they also make a MD3D rated 2000 watts it was tested in Car Audio and Electronics magazine and tested over 2000 WATTS RMS

burp is just a 2 second play of a note.... I would recommend an SAZ1500D... Seriously that amp got balls If not you can get a md1d from flakko (even an md2d) they are way efficient and slam

I don't know of many high end companies that do include screws with their subs... I suggest T nuts http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...amp;PID=1313893

I suggest you email the FI tech Nick Its [email protected]

Hey thats my tag line WOOT Yeah it was me grim remember Fi - You didn't need that mirror anyways Man i'm down with it....

Does anyone have a good Article (pics would be sweet too) on resining the inside of the enclosure....

Yes it will play the note as with any X-over the point beyond the setting is a slope that gradually OR sharply declines (varies with each Filter most use a 12DB per octave) subsonic filters usually have a much steeper slope than the LP filter..... There are some that has no slope at all but in all honesty that is just not practical for daily listening.... As for cleaning up the sound i wouldn't say "cleaning" but rather reduces the volume of these "rogue" notes (though i doubt many songs hit below 15hz since anything below 20hz is inaudible to the ear but you could probably still feel the note).. Anything below 20hz IMO is a waste of power and heat since there really is no sound coming from the sub only cone movement and wear and tear on the subs mechanical parts.... (i don't know of any sub that can musically reproduce an audible sound below 15hz) Some people say using a low pass filter and a Subsonic filter is like making a bandpass box, but just with the x-overs lol...

Kslice pretty much covered it think of the LP filter and the subsonic as X-overs in both directions... LP filter will allow anything Below what you set it at Subsonic will allow anything Above what you set it... The subsonic's main objective is to protect the sub from seeing a freq. below tuning YET at the same time allows you to "isolate" the boxes tuning frequency..... Lets say your box is tuned at oh 32Hz you can isolate the peak/range like so The red denotes frequencies cut-off by the LP and Subsonic filter.. 0-27hz 28-50hz 51hz-1khz So the gates is WIDE OPEN for frequencies falling between 28-50 hz anything above and below isn't (well in theory it's not just "not played" but rather it slopes downward in whatever fashion the Subsonic/LP filter is designed to slope) Almost all high end amps these days comes with a subsonic filter..... It's a really safe feature that will help the longevity of your subs...

....must .....fight ... temptation ..... to ....open ....a ......myspace ..... account ..fight ....ugh .....fight

Practicing for when you get married eh ArrizX LOL

That's exactly what the subsonic is for.... It's to protect the sub from mechanical failure by playing below tuning.... I believe Lloyd (bigbassman) said if he had set a subsonic when testing the BTL with 10K it would've played longer.. but they didn't so when they hit a note below box tuning the BTL froze... This is from one of the people that tested it i believe they said and i quote "The woofer took 10kw fine.. what it didnt take was 15 hz below tuning ( 30 hz ) the voice coil was fine... the picture of it is around here somewhere.. the cone literally smashed into the basket/spider landing... i hear this isnt a problem with the larger diameter drivers... god what a 15 would do would be just NUTS" that's where the subsonic filter comes in... I wouldn't go as far as saying sealed doesn't need it either.

Scott interesting read i enjoy your post and explanations of the mechanical aspects of the sub.... Wish you had more time to keep giving these in depth answers

Tej Shame on you If you say "Jensen" and "BTL" in the same post again I'm gonna hit up Walmart with $20 bucks, buy that boom stick just to slap you with it... Hell it'll probably say i "hit" a 129.8 on you LOL

well I got to Fi SSD D2 going to them and they are just fine they only get warm FYI the DCR of the FI is .7 so that's pretty close to the .5 After around 30 mins of cracking the volume i feel my amps and they are warm they would be 10xs cooler if i put the back seat down but i wanted to know how much abuse these amps can take..... and yes they take it well I beat on my amps like a rented mule and they keep on smiling... I'm about to up my subs since the RMS of the SSD is only 800 (I am getting a Fi Q maybe) then i can really unleash the beast...

I'd go with Sundown Us Amps E.D. Rockford (Power series Tx001bd series) I.A. Cactus Zapco

Fi slogan = "Fi.... You didn't need that rear view mirror anyways..... "

Then the only advantage the copper coils give is they would accentuate the low end Freq.

Hmm that is a pretty good question never thought of the motor weight vs the basket but if i am not mistaken it should be strong enough... what type of screws ? Basic wood/drywall screws ? For the BTL i would recommend using the tee nut with a double layer on the panel the sub is mounted on.....

Tuned to 13 hz and hitting 174... What a Moron

Copper coils really does well for sealed enclosures... AND they add more Kick to the low end....