theabunai

CA glue is like drugs it's dangerous, toxic and addictive at the same time..... yet somehow you just gotta have it so finding a good drug dealer to get them will be hard LOL

JCM off topic a bit but are those duralasts by any chance dry cells (AGM type batteries) ? if they are what model are they ?

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...st&p=250616 Hope that helps guys

Don't forget that although your box may be tuned at a certain frequency the vehicles resonant will change the actual "system" tuning so your box may be tuned to 35hz, then factor in the Vehicle resonance and your "system" may have changed to 30hz...

It's true scott used to design the subs but i don't think he has designed the new subs (I could be wrong but i thought David was designing them now)... As for the help i am confused if he has the Se or the XXX model so can't comment

enclosure specifications please

Yeah Tom see if you can get a hold of the dude.... let me know how i can get together with him for metering... I'll bring all of my box designs to try them all out LOL

1600W RMS x 2 @ 1 Ohm stereo TJ is that what you had it at.... I don't think your amp is faulty but it may be a bit much for the Q's the Q's max out at roughly 1200 watts.... (and thats a clean 13+ volt 1200 watts) If you don't have the electrical for the amp that doesn't mean the amp puts out less wattage then the rated 1600... It just means that it will send a clipped signal sooner then it would if it were receiving the right voltage... i think they key to remember is this "quote from topgun" when you load the amps to a lower impedance the current increases more than the increase in voltage (current is the acutal flow of electrons, voltage is just the push). A greater increase in current than voltage is going to mean an even bigger increase in heat that has to be dissipated. TO much current was pushed through the tinsel leads and they got HOT and went poof. That only happens with to much power. once you electrical is upgraded... you set your gains with a DMM and you find the LIMIT on your HU knob then just stay under that threshold on the volume knob I can 90% say this won't happen again ... Be glad the subs are made for just the tinsel leads to break when it gets a clipped signal and not the motor or coil burning... i think the posts from this link on down will clear things up a bit better http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...st&p=231026 I just want to help make sure you don't get the problem again TJ

sure 7.67 should be fine (id' go 8 and hand off the .33 to one of the other dimensions) if not it should be fine since the final mounting depth will have 3/4" (.75) added to the 7.67 since the sub sits on the front baffle

And there you have it from the horses mouth..... Man i would just email Flakko he can hook you up on new, old whatever for Us Amps...

In your scenario If you have under 1000 watts for the sub go with the 1 15" SSD If you have about 1000 watts for the sub go with the 1 15" SSD w/Flatwind If you have about 1300 watts for the sub go with the 1 15" SSD w/Flatwind and BP option if you have more than 1000 watts less then 1300 watts get a 15" Q Got about 1500 watts get the 15" Q with BP option 1 sub set-ups can really rock and save some cash......

could i leave the wire from the alt to the fuse box to the stock batt alone and just add a wire from alt to stock battery then stock battery to rear battery (fused as needed)

out of curiosity what kind of amp is it your correct wiring the coils parallel will yield a 1 ohm load

Be wary of power ratings... Most say they put out "this much power" but you need to look at the voltage they claim these amps put the power out at... a company may advertise the amps power rating as 1300 (on a 1000 watt amp) but they fail to mention that is at 14.4+ volts.... where most electrical these days run around 13 or so..... as for sundown here is specs and testing http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7669 here is the Real world testing http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...7669&st=30# read all the posts following he actually abused the crap out of the amp and it took it like a champ. here is availability http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=8386 and here is strapping info (yupp so you don't need to sell these to upgrade power cause you can strap them together) http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7406 and the standard Sundown warranty (I don't think any other amp company offers this type of warranty) "Warranty is the same as all Sundown amps. Two years standard limited warranty, with the 5 year offer for a discounted replacement no matter what (if you dropped it out of your car on the highway and can send in the carcass you can buy a new one directly from me at a discount compared to a new one -- as an example)." as for the rockford Memphis Rockford is a bit more efficient Memphis has the edge on power though Power on both is pretty clean.... the edge to rockford on cleaner power... IMO

For the price, warranty and personal support from the person who owns and created the amp i would get a sundown Sae-1000d.... they are small, efficient, have a small footprint, slam, get loud and low, and one of the few amps that actually truely put out what it claims to put out best of all they have great customer service and jacob the owner is approachable on any issue with the amp (but will probably never have issues with it).. As with Fi, i like to support companies with great customer service and actually treat buyers like a friend rather then a dollar sign.... plus both Fi and sundown put out great products...... The SAE-1000D will be available for purchase i believe in a week or so... your' looking at under 400 closer to 380 for a new SAE-1000d... As for the rockford vs Memphis.... It depends on your idea of better.... one amp is more efficient then the other... better meaning price for performance..... Better is really a broad word.... IMO they are both awesome amps and either one will take care of business.... I think the sundown will put out clean power with less strain on your cars electrical and for that price it's hard to pass up...

SPL output is dependent on the install and enclosure as well.... earthman is right the BP option allows the SSD to handle about 1100 watts (maybe more if you get the flatwind)..... Q maxes out stock around 1300 so the BP should give you up to around 1500....

Rockford T1001bd or a sundown sae-1000d I would tune to 32 hz personally... As for sealed or ported... personally i like the musical output of a sealed.... I think it has better SQ Ported will hit hard and lower though

it's the hc 600. eh abunai, i wanna hear your setup. must be nuts sounding. Whoa bro never even noticed your in HI Yeah sure no problem where you at we can get together I can slam it for you... then you can let everyone know the type of hurt the 2 SSD 12's can put on a tC lol I gotta take vids of the stupid stereo demolishing my tC.... anyways yeah let me know i'll meet up with ya and we can let each other take a listen

They are not authorized to sell Merlin and AX lines... I know for sure that Us Amps DO NOT and HAVE NOT authorized ANYONE to sell merlin and AX line amps through the internet.... the only thing i can think of is they are 05 models not even the 06 ones..... (probably why the price is so low).... I also read somewhere (now i am not saying ikesound was the ones) that a place was taking the shells of merlins and putting refurb or older model boards in them... and since Us Amps do not authorize internet sales of merlin lines and above you really can't do anything about it... I am sure Denim (an authorized Us Amps seller) will confirm that the they do not allow Internet sales of Merlin and AX lines..... I got me two Us Amps Merlin MD.1D from flakko so contact him... (I almost bought from Ikesound until i called and they told me they were last year models 05) And this was around December of 06... that way you get a genuine no question no doubt and warrantied Us Amps correct year model without any doubt.....

hows your voltage

I think in my opinion that theses videos are more influential on people in regards to car audio then IASCA, Bass Race and SPL scores... Just my belief

Philip What kinetik model is that in the side panel

aren't Those for home theater..... Also Nick (NDMstang65) is a Tech/rep for Fi audio so he is more then qualified to answer the questions....

If you go with the thors I would opt for the BP option on the "Q"s...... This is actually up to you Tez.... things i would consider... The "Q"s have the ability to go sealed and sound good, so if your ported venture turn sour you can fall back on your tried and true sealed enclosure (unless you spend money to have someone make a ported enclosure for you)... the BL's Qts is low so you won't get the output potential of the BL in a sealed enclosure, so you will need to really have a good ported enclosure... Both subs can hit low and loud.... so that shouldn't be an issue with either sub... The BL has the ability and upgrade to handle more wattage should you want to upgrade... The "Q"s have the ability to give you the best SQ for your system... Honestly they both will rock it's really a matter of the install you intend to do that should make your final decision

Grim were you Metering (volume and set up wise) as you would when daily driving...?? I know when we metered cars say a person would have the volume knob for daily on 20 (out of 35) but when he burped he would take the knob up to 27 for the burp since it's only a few seconds...... the only issue we had was the first burps scored very high then as they burped they got lower (obviously due to voltage issues)..... Hey don't sweat it man, It was a pure learning experience for you.... at least you made the mistake at a shop and not in the lanes.... You'll get it don't worry