theabunai

jockin no chit lol I am looking to get my tC tinted soon (i just bought it in december) Maybe i'll come by and get a quote

Here's what i could find Three.1 from audiocontrol

I know US amps have their XT series made in Korea and their merlin lines get their parts made US except for the board it's stamped in korea but the rest assembled in US.. I believe it is to get costs down...

I was looking at some pioneer stuff too someone emailed me this link and i read through the whole post http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.p...light=ground+hu It sorta turned me away from pioneer.... I don't know if this is a problem with the models you are choosing from nor do i know if pioneer fixed this issue (or even if it is an issue)... just thought i'd post it though If i find anything on the kenwood i'll let you know

I don't got the meters or any fancy gadgets... don't have a science degree BUT i do know my dash sure as hell shakes more then my headrest LOL

Now that is just classic man Should've not said anything LOL

///M5 and others Which active xover or eq do you suggest and why I am currently looking into the three.1 from audiocontrol... And suggestions or preferences.... ? I ask why also to understand your choice and see if that is what i am intending to accomplish....

Whoa whoa whoa who said Q's don't have SPL SPL is install dependent IMO and the Q's are right up there.... To me the decision is based on install and power... The loaded BLs can handle more power but need a ported enclosure only the Q's are more flexible and can go sealed and ported but limited to i would say 1200 base line or 1500-1700 with BP option... BLs loaded can probably go up to 2K So gotta think about enclosure and power..... That decision will affect SQ and SPL of the subs.... BOTH subs have SQ and SPL.... the difference is if you looking for an SQ set up then Q's have the potential to maximize SQ set ups while still delivering some decent SPL.... if your looking for SPL then the BL has the potential to maximize SPL results while still having decent SQ... remember key word is potential... it's not as easy as dropping in a BL in a ported box and then dropping the Q in the same box and hearing a HUGE difference in SPL or SQ... with the right power, settings and enclosure based on EACH MODEL SUB you can get the MAX POTENTIAL out of each sub..

How long will it take to get my sub? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7158 which i am sure you looked at already but for those who may not have seen that posts also you gotta remember that scott never came back till the 11th or so then had to manually approve all the orders before any sub was machined.... Scott has NEVER scammed anyone for money and takes the extra security precaution to make sure only he handles the secure purchasing portion of the process WHICH i would rather it be that way instead of someone who may not know what the hell they are doing when it comes to charges and money ESPECIALLY MY MONEY.... due to the back log of orders i would say just wait...

Equalizer or Active Crossover ? I suppose EQ would be better for SQ type systems ?

Well look at it this way if they are saying "if you can't afford DD get an Fi" they pretty much are saying that Fi is on the same playing field as DD I think the problem is ignorance..... People think just cause it cost more it's a better product. People have been duped into thinking that if a product is a good deal then it's sub par.... DD may be a better sub and it may not be.... But i know this for a fact... Price per performance... Fi wins IMO I've seen Fi plastered in the top 5 in almost all recent competitions... I seen Fi put up numbers that are similar to DD subs... If you sit back and think about it.... If an Fi sub can sound good and do a 150db for 200 bucks (with one of the best customer service out there) and a DD sub can sound good and do a 150db for 500 bucks I'd rather be the poor man with an extra 300 bucks in my pocket while still hitting 150 dbs

that's what i'm talking about woot woot that was pretty s i c k

What a job.... you machine some bad-ass subs and create wonderful rays of sunshine in peoples lives.... How do you sleep at night

Yeah let him know Cliff wants to meter my car when i get the Q's I have the cash just waiting for a total from scott with shipping I can't wait lol.... I was waiting to see if i had a chance of winning the 250 credit for helping around the forums... but i think someone else won so eh no more waiting about W00t w00t

add copper coils on the SSD's 12's and you'll love it I voted 2 SSD 12's sealed (i am a little biased though he he)

If you know who Donald is, rumor has it he is the loudest car in Oahu with 2 15's in a red civic, I've been told that He metered at Ryans shop and it was a TL that was really tight.... I have never seen it myself.... If you wanna hear 2 SSD's 12 on 1k a piece let me know i live in Aiea right up the road from Ryans shop...... If you see him tell him Clifford says hi...

great choice

Sky ? What comp philip I know that Ryan from mobile Car audio (who has recently taken over Auto Audio as well) has a TL meter... I used to work with him back in my installer days LOL... If you want philip i can have him set up the meter for us (I would've already but i found that my terminal cup cracked and was leaking air).... It's no problem I've known him for a long time.... I asked Scott to quote me shipping for 2 12 Q's to my zip.... waiting on the reply

Well seems it's all sorted so keep us posted on how it goes

Ported puts better numbers on the meter, but are peaky.... Meaning they play the frequencies around it's tuning very loud but the others are played very soft (a Sharp or steep roll off).... Sealed gives more SQ to the systems resonance... Though not as loud as ported it has a smoother roll off (depending on enclosure size) so that more frequencies plays in the same range of volume as possible (a gradual or smooth roll off)..... Just FYi the owner of Fi Scott has SSD's in a sealed enclosure, Nick has an SSD 12 in a Sealed enclosure And if i'm not mistaken shawn the other Fi tech has a chit load of SSD's in a sealed enclosure... Not saying anything but to have all the techs running sealed enclosures it's fair to say that sealed isn't a bad choice....

listen to adrian_D one saz-1500D @ 1ohm to both subs and you should be able to get numbers close to low-mid 140's Thats a really solid combination in my opinion

Damn it johny24 Hit on my guy again and i'm gonna smack you with a fish, take photos of it and post them on youtube..

Everyplace you go will have a horror story.... there is no perfect company or perfect product.... I heard failed alternator stories from all places... What you should look for is how the company handles the failed HO alts.... And what is the ration of bad to good that you hear... HO "A" has 10 bad stories but only 4 good one HO "B" has 10 bad stories out of 3,000 good ones You catch my drift..... I think the main concern is warranty and how the customer service handles issues.... IMO Iraggi handles their customers pretty well....and seems to know a lot about HO alts as it pertains to Car audio... Trust me i am a research guru myself... living in Hawaii, with HIGH shipping charges, one can not do enough research for a durable product, or good warranty/Customer service...

Flakko can get you some for a really competitive price PM or Email him.... I believe the specs are somewhere in this forum try search and see what comes up I remember seeing it posted by flakko.... My md.1d is rated at 1k but a few people benched it doing close to 1200... I am assuming this would be the same for the rest (more output then Us Amps claim)

Hi all Ok this is the problem On the big three the alternator power.... It says to upgrade that... now this is the issue i discovered tracking down my voltage drop... My alternator wire goes from the alt to a fuse box (factory) then from the fuse box to the front battery... now my rear battery taps off the front battery.... all 0/1 guage wire... I changed the wire from the alt to the fuse box to 0/1 So i need to change the fuse box to the bat now to 0/1 OR is just going straight from the alt to the rear battery an option (fused with 200 amps of course)