theabunai

Now that's the chit MArk DAMN love'n the window flex

Scott i suggest you start "machining" your own shirts at the warehouse

Except for this constant ringing Jimj

Look for an amp (either mono or brideged) that puts out the wattage you desire at a 2ohm load... finding an amp that can run 1/2 under 300 bucks is pretty difficult but finding a nice amp that runs at 2ohms should be a bit easier. there are tons..... It may costs a bit more then if you had a dual 2ohm sub for a 1ohm load.... Check the SSA shop some of the Us amps xterminators are a nice bargain....

I don't think your amp is stable at 1/2 ohm load....

I would wire them 2 ohm stereo IF the tweeters you are buying come with at least a passive crossover... Depending on the tweeters efficiency and crossover you may want to wire the tweeters on one channel and the 6x9 on the other (so you can adjust gains according to efficiency of the tweeter to the 6x9) you will lose left/right balance control on them but have fader.... You will find that the tweeters will almost certainly be louder then the 6x9's (but i od't know the brand so i can't be positive)... If not you can go one 6x9 and one tweeter for right channel and the same for left.... Others will chime in soon and offer more choices i'm sure

uhm you can't get a 4ohm load with those speakers... You would need to get some resistors to get a 4 ohm stereo load... Or different speakers.. the amp is stable at 2 ohm stereo so i would consider that....

Dual 1 gives you a 2 ohm load (in series) or a 1/2 ohm load (in parallel) Dual 2 gives you a 4 ohm load (in series) and a 1 ohm load (in Parallel) uhm thats about it.. they are mainly for various resistance loads on the amp...

You ordered a Dual 1 ohm ? If so you can't get 1 ohm out of a Dual 1 ohm... you can only get 2 ohms (wiring in series) or .5 ohm (wiring in Parallel) If you want a 1ohm load you need to order a Dual 2 ohm and wire the coils parallel

VIDEO OF THE CRYSTAL GEYSER WATER VIBRATING PLEASE !!

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-mi0lWL1LwuC/c...=500CDA9857#Tab Scroll down where you see Preamp Voltage 2 volts So what you got is 3 sets of 2volt pre-amp outputs that means your amp gain should be set around 2 volts This is called "gain matching" here is a good a article http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=3704 that's to do it even more precise... but the above method is a ball park type setting... I don't think the "Q" will be louder then the SSD in bass... if anything it won't be heard by the ear... The Q has the potential to have a better SQ output then the SSD... but bass for bass low for low loud for loud that is all install and enclosure dependent...

I believe DE is a form of a class D with Class E integration.... Flakko when you have time can you ask Carlos or Dirk what is the power rating for 2 Md.1D's when strapped at 2 ohms ? thanks

http://bigbassman.realmofexcursion.com/images/graphs/spl.gif Lloyd gave an SSD @ 52hz over 2k watts on a SPL burp.... And it scored in the top 4 of the challenge... BUT i don't know the specifics of the install but lloyd did tell me that it was a single woofer in an spl optimized box, with a non-killing power in a rex.. as nick said it is install dependent..... Fi subs were in the top 7 out of 26 tested. This is just one part of what they did LOL. there is more results that showcase Fi subs and how they performed.... http://bigbassman.realmofexcursion.com/collective.htm Also anyone notice the SSD did better numbers then the Q with less wattage ? The SSD is not Fi's bottom line... it's just different model (i know nobody here said that but i read it in a few posts before)...

It also depends on what options you get

.7 is actually very very high... you probably had the gain way to high..... The way amp gains work (to my knowledge) is the lower the number on the amp gain the more gain you get... reason is the setting of .7 on the amp means that the decks output voltage is .7 so the amp will off set it by providing more power.... If the deck output were 8 (8volt pre-outs) then the amp would put out less gain since the HU voltage is so high... so setting the amp to 8 would yield less gain and strain.. Find out your decks output voltage (i'm guessing it's aroun 2volts) and match the amps gain accordingly.... As for the SSD and Q regarding the MDF... Is the box 3/4" or 1/2" ? Regardless if it is a Q or SSD with 1k watts (if you plan on using it in that manner) and the box is 1/2" MDF I would consider adding another baffle for 1k watts as it would almost surely flex... Also SSD is not a lower model it's a different model. the model does not affect the subs ability to flex a box... what does is power and the enclosure specifications.... I can give a BTL full optioned out 100 watts and it wouldn't flex the box much. It's not the model of the sub that determins flex but power and enclosure that does.....

*breaks out my secret black book and jots down what nick and scott posts* [/end posts]

12" SSD with the BP option or the flatwind... Great for sealed and with the BP option can handle the 1k easily and leave you room for an upgraded amp later.....

What's your budget...? I'd suggest a Sundown SAZ-3000D Can probably be had for around 900 or so... http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7900 Clean power stable Efficient WAY better Personalized Customer service

hey just get your ring at Zales Turtle they have this Trade up option we started at 1/2 karat and now that i am a 5th year apprentice for Air conditioning and making more she now has a 1-1/2 Karat .... We just kept trading up.... the trade works like they buy the diamond back for the price you paid and that goes toward the next purchase... so say the 1/2 karat was got for 1,000 bucks.... when you trade up they give you 1,000 bucks off the next diamond you get... so the 1 Karat is 2,000 you get 1,000 of that purchase.....

actually appleyard If you decrease the ports width from 5.25 width it will allow you to shorten the port length for a lower tuned frequency... In your case if you went with a 4 port width and a height of 16.5 your port length for a box tuning of 32 hz would be around 35" long Or i would do what scott recommends 30hz with a 3.5 width will give you only a 28" long port.... the smaller the width the shorter the length can be to achieve a lower tuning.. just don't go to small to where you encounter port noise... Scott suggested the same thing i suggested dropping the SS filter to around 30hz..... The SS filter has a really steep roll off so it is fairly safe to say set your SS filter a few freq. below tuning.... it's when the sub starts hitting notes WAY WAY below tuning that can be really bad (tuned box at 40hz then your sub playing a 20 hz note...) for the port dimensions for the last box you have (33w x 14D x 20H assuming these are O.D. measurements) for a tuning of around 30 hz you'r looking at a port around 4"W x 12.5"H x 32"Length... eh it's late i could have my number wrong but i think that's about right

The sundown compares in performance to the memphis.... Not THAT MUCH better but on par with it... The reason i would suggest the sundown is one simple thing... Customer service... there is no way Memphis can give you the same personalized Customer service that jacob over and Sundown could and to me i would GLADLY, willingly and without a doubt spend a little bit more so i ca rest assured that not only is my money purchasing a product but a great staff to back that product.... that is one reason why i push Sundown so much... I don't own one piece of equipment from them but i seen and experienced myself the type of service they give and to me it's well worth the little extra if any price difference i need to pay... you can bet my next amp will be a sundown...

I believe you got too much port area..... At 3.65 cuft the optimal port area is around 51 square ft.... may want to try and lessen the port area.... Also you filters look fine.... You could bring the SS filter down to 30hz if you wanted to.... I know my subs sounded horribly muddy at a higher volume until I set all my Bass EQ settings to zero and then brought my amp gains up to just below distortion at 3/4 deck volume... not only did it actually sound much LOUDER and cleaner but played much much lower.....

I hear ya buds

Actually yes he did I believe if you go to ROE then click on the link in his sig about mariah doing 140+ on a mag he and shift through it you'll come upon it... It shows them doing crazy chit like shoving cardboard in the port and letting the BTL spit it out really far ... crazy stuff

Jimj What about going from the processors sub outs (RCA) to amp 1 monoblock input then from the amp 1 monoblocks output to the amp 2 monoblock input ? Or would the Y adapters be better to go to each amp ?