theabunai

I was wondering to expand my knowledge and thought others here would benefit from my ever growing thirst for knowledge... i thought i would ask to help myself avoid these problems and also help educate those that aren't aware of these issues and how to avoid and/or discover the following problems.. Anyways.... as it pertains to sub woofers (particularly Fi built ones since i own some) 1. What is mechanical failure? 2. What are signs of mechanical failure (sight, sound, smell)? 3. What are the most common reasons for a sub to experience mechanical failure ? 4. What is thermal issues/problems in regards to sub woofers 5. What are signs of Thermal problems/issues (sight, sound, smell)? 6. What is the most common reason for a sub to experience Thermal issues/problems ? I Know some reasons but thought i would posts since there are far more educated people here than I.. thank you

ml how does it sound ??????????? And what damage do those amps do to your body ??????

Shawn any hint on the comps power handling

Straight from Jacob Fuller owner of Sundown... "B-Stock means that they were somehow damaged in shipping from the factory, usually very minor. full warranty coverage. " Refurbished usually means it went in for repair to the factory and usually carries a 90 day warranty... used will almost certainly come from Team sundown members who upgrade to bigger amps (soon we will see an influx of SAZ-1500D due to the SAZ-3000D coming out)... I bought a B-stock SAX-100.4 from Jacob Yama.... It was EXACTLY how he described it no surprises. Full warranty... This Saturday i will be putting it in.... I'm waiting on 2 good SAZ-1500D's (waiting as in checking here for some b-stock stuff or used for a great deal) to power my 2 Q 12's........

Ok don't be afraid to open a little earlier then exactly at midnight

SSD 10" with copper coils... even the SSA Icon 10 would fit the bill nicely...

they offer better cooling for the sub which in turns gives it more thermal power handling which translates to increased RMS... If i recall correctly it adds another 300-400 watts of power handling to the RMS of the sub....

Heard the epicenter...... in all honesty it's a sort of a waste for high end subs like Fi, Si mags, RLP, etc etc... they all can hit the low end pretty nice and sound good doing it... the two cars i've heard them in actually sounded much more musical without the epicenter.... one guy just left it in for the SPL meter readout.... To each his own i guess... i'd take a nice clean amp with a good internal x-over/SSF over a bass enhancement product.... to me i'd spend the money on a Matrix line driver (depending on your HU pre-out voltage).... x0over with line driver.... that way the processor can increase the output voltage of your HU and decrease gain settings on your amps that way your amps don't have to work so hard...

[sarcasm in a funny way] now imagine if shipping for these subs were free !! [/sarcasam in a funny way]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHYYkgSYeu0 I love it.... Had me cracking up for a couple minutes.... Now someone make one with the SSA Icon in it LOL

the horn shaped port is when an Aero port has sex with a slot port they produce a Slotted Aero port LOL

I see you went from aero port to sealed then to slot port and now ????? mind disclosing why the changes in enclosure design ? and what did you finally settle on and why ? Thanks jep... I just like seeking other peoples experiences in all aspects of car audio....

router and a table saw with the option to do angle cuts should be on that lists neon.... I love those nice degree cuts for wedge shaped boxes

Hmm one per sub is good (@ 1ohm i assume) Though strapping them would let the amps see a 2 ohm load and run a bit cooler (I might be wrong though as i am unfamiliar with strapping these but i'm sure jacob will be here to clarify) In theory (and theory is just that an unsubstantiated guess that may or may not prove true) a 2 ohm load lets an amp run cooler then a 1ohm load i am not sure if that applies to strapping so take that with a grain of salt... I am not the savvy tech some are here but isn't tuning to the standing wave of a vehicle an all intensive technique for SPL and not SQ ? I would think if anything fixing the timing (or as some call it digital time alignment) of the subs would benefit the systems SQ not the standing wave.... I could be wrong here though

kid what ohm load are you looking to achieve

Bigjae Any particular comparison and reason why your going back sealed (i'm putting 2 12 q's in a sealed box myself)....

Ah my daily dose of Meade and his 4 Fi BTLs tearing some poor souls a new arseho...

Stock..besides big 3. Upgrade your electrical and you score will 99.9% go up... I have seen a car with stock electrical and only 1200 watts score high 130... (voltage drops below 9 volts) he got an extra batt, big three, another run of 0/1, and a 160 HO amp alternator and is now hitting low 140's on a TL... SAME amps, subs etc etc.... You can tune higher for pure SPL burps but honestly unless your total aim is to compete spl and don't care much about how it sound Daily then go for it... If not try to upgrade your electrical (the most overlooked yet most essential upgrade in an audio system above 1K watts) you will be surprised what results you'll get after..

you can screw it down if it has mounting holes (which almost all of them have)... Wire tie it to a wire loom running in the engine bay (providing that it doesn't stick above the hood line or it isn't a wire that is for safety ie. Air bag, side impact bag etc etc).... Get the right hex head to tighten the screw OR add a washer so you don't have to go too far down for it to be tight....

what's your systems electrical upgrades like?

A-neon I came across this a while back read from post #12 down http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...st&p=259507 I am in the process of installing a neighbors system (i can only do some on sundays dues to work and my own vehicle so it's taking some time) but He went ahead and bought the carquest AGM in the posts... now i don't know YET how well they perform but if it is, in fact, a deka with a carquest sticker then i suspect great things from the bat... If not, for spl i would really trust kinetik (after all their batts are in a lot of usac/iasca top competitors), odyssey or the bigger yellow tops (i hear the blue tops are better but i have no experience with them)... Kinetiks have been in the doodoo bowl lately.. Once again I have heard them and the ones i've heard have done their job, but a few places i read were saying something about them not disclosing a certain spec of their batts for reasons that it wasn't up to par with other brands.... I would search on the Kinetiks to see what was up I can't remember what place i seen that i BELIEVE was the ESR rate... Let me know which you chose and how it turned out

that is pretty hard to answer since a lot has to do with install, Enclosure, tuning, placement, system x-overs, Runs of wire, vehicles cabin gain etc etc....

Yupp... vladd is one of the few people that gives accurate info...

I always view the f3 like a Plot or point on the freq graph... it really tells you about the roll-off and at what rate/how drastic.... change the enclosure/port size and the f3 will change.... it can show the system to have a flat or peaky response.... I use it as a guideline to fine tune the enclosure.... I like a flatter response so when i design a box i check the f3 to see just how "slight" the response change is...

Although the enclosures design has various tweaks on my opinion below in general i believe that Sealed enclosures has better SQ Ported has better output