theabunai

your amp is NOT putting out 1200 watts... i'm sorry it's not... Call orion if you must It's not putting out 1200 watts so lets move on past this trivial detail and get you some help.... Fist off to score 138~139 on 800 watts in my opinion is pretty damn impressive... But if you want more... I would upgrade the amp... What you can do with what you have.... Tune higher for better numbers... increase port area (as ford said)... move the box around the vehicle (placement can raise you DB score up)..

oustanding install Jwebb how is your voltage holding up with the 220 iraggi ALT on those saz-1500D's ? how much did you have to spend on new Charging leads for the HO ALT... ?

Bdawson i was confused by nicks response cause the OP was asking about the mounting depth, power and displacement on a fully loaded 10" BTL... and nick replied No, we will not make one for a musical application... The only point of their existence is if somebody wants to run them for farting/burping in a dBdrag street class scenario. so i was confused at what was going on *steps back and LAWLS*

Nick you lost me there ?

yeah sold after 10 minutes of posting the pics... When i get my Q's in I'll be sure to let you have a listen though

yupp... furthermore i would question anyone who tells you that based solely on the fuse ratings on your amp what that amp is putting out wattage wise... why would an amp that CAN put out 1200 watts (yet claim to max out at 1600w) put only a 100 amp fuse ? hmmm a sundown 1500 watt amp true RMS has 4 x 40 amp fuses for a total of 160 amps and it puts out less then what you WCC orion amp claims to put out..... I would serious reconsider what wattage you guys think it's putting out based solely on that logic itself.. Also man don't be so defensive we are trying to help you... If you trust this person more then what some of our experienced members are trying to tell you then why make a post for help... just PM "alex"

a correct street address usually means that the address was wrong.... I highly doubt UPS would accept a package (that includes tracking) with the shipping address omitted...

I was gonna type out a long drawn out lesson on the fuses vs wattage... but almond you've said what i was really thinking bro... Lets put it simple, do you think if i put a 200 amp fuse in there i would now get 2400 watts out of that amp... If it were that simple I would be sticking 400 amp fuses in my amps to get MORE then RMS power In fact orion themselves state that MAX (in the glossary) is a very inaccurate account of wattage where RMS is a more accurate account... Read up on things before you stick something in your car and hook it up... that's how things go poof...

I have to agree with almond on this one... where do you get 1200 or even 1600 watts from ??? They list that as MAX power which tends to be BS... not even the higher grade Orion-8002 can give out 1600 watts So the facts are you did a 139.2 on ONLY 800 watts (if that since you said your V drops to 11 or so)... I know some people with 1K watts that hit only a few tenths of a db higher then you... I'd be pretty stoked

as they both said Isolator is mainly for if you use your stereo with the car off a lot OR if you don't drive the vehicle often (since the ESR will be different they can drain each other if the car remains off and stored away for a lengthy time, but if this is the case just disconnect the second battery) but if you use the car daily or on a regular basis and pound the stereo with the car on most of the time there is no need for an isolator... I have an extra battery and no isolator and absolutely no problems (stock batter lead acid from the dealer and a Optima in the rear)

I think he wants to measure the total vehicle amperage draw on the ALT... not what the alt is rated to put out..

sorry my bad to end all confusion best easiest way is this I did it the other way thinking you need to add 20% to get what ever EXTRA the amp needs to produce to make 3000.... 3000 divided by .8 = 3750 We do it cause the amp is 80% efficient that means to make 3000 watts we it needs to make 3750 watts.... If it were 100% effieicent it would take 3000 watts to make 3000 watts... if it were 50% efficient it would take 4500 watts to make 3000 watts... then 3750 divided by 13.8 = 271 amp draw at full tilt

Hey pretty boy i work in waipahu woot woot

^^^ yupp Let us know how it sounds i think you might be one of the few that has a 15" Q sealed...

Acid do you have auto post or something... everytime i read this acronym i freaking bust out laughing (since i kinda say it how i think you would say it Ohmygod! hitoyou! really fast LOL) BTW welcome Blaine what part of da island you steh

chit i am no expert but i learned a heck of a lot by just asking questions to the right people.... Scott, nick (super helpful and patient), Jimj, Jacob, ///M5, Devildriver, MMray, aaron, mark, etc etc (I know i missed a chit load more)... I just read everything these guys put in the forums, then i ask more questions, read, bug them, hound them, stalk them... chit ask ///M5, MMray and JimJ I just pm them a bunch of questions on a host of different things, hell i even ask questions when it doesn't pertain to me or my system at that point in time..... then go and try what you find out in your system... Gains, gauge wire, DMM tricks, enclosure tricks man I try them all (i like the hands on learning though, I hate books and i enjoy reading other peoples knowledge "hands-on" knowledge of the stuff)...

Actually that formula is for a 100% efficient amp.... You need to find the amps efficiency rating... RMS (not max power) divided by Amps efficiency Then Divided by volts (which is more like 13.8) So lets do an example 1000 watt (mono @ 1 ohm) Divided by .8 (for an 80% eff. amp it means at 80% to get 1000 it needs to produce 1250 watts) = 1250 then we take this and divide by voltage 1250 / 13.8 (standard voltage system) = 90 amp draw... Now some people say this amp draw is MAX draw for the amp on a test tone.... SOME say that music is 1/2 that draw (some say even 1/3rd but that is a but to much IMO) so we can take the 90 amp draw and divide by 2 for a 45 amp draw on music at listening levels... The music part is to me sketchy I would go off MAX amp draw for MAX output on anything (test tone, music) since i believe not all music is recorded equally... Someone correct me if i'm wrong though

With a DMM and a clamp i believe

One sub get the dual 2 ohm so you can get a 1 ohm load on the amp and get full rated power within warranty of the amp....

Actually crunch i know the equation I'm just so damn lazy and thought I'd try to get you to do the work damn it... chit i might as well do 3,000 x .2 (since sundown amps are about 80% effecient) 3,600/13 (I'm lazy i hate decimals) = about a 266 amp draw.... I believe the amp draw for music is less though about 1/2 so in actuality i think you can take 266 and divide by 2 for a 133 amp draw on music and 266 on burps at full rated power on test tones I could be wrong...

velcro is your friend Audio lol Crunch quick test since you like to crunch numbers where i don't Saz-1500D 2 of them @ 1ohm 14 volts what is the amp draw test 2 saz-3000D @ 1ohm 14 volts what's the amp draw ? thanks buddy

Holy chit ford you detective you... TOLD you it was a white Background... lol

Me too I only remember it was a white background LOL Yupp you are right people were blaming scott saying he was a sell out and people was bashing Us Amps for price hikes.... Someone was saying he sold because he was bankrupting Resonant Engineering was a whole lot of doo doo... Then Scott came in, laid it all out from start to finish then everyone was pretty "mum" after LOL God i wish i could even remember where it was

ford yes it was a big hodge podge of people all pointing fingers up until scott came in and laid it all down... then everyone changed their tune... chit you read it too I can't remember where it was... It was a big thread...

there is actually a post somewhere on ecoustic or another tempro maybe about scott and people were saying scott/RE was losing money or something... Then Scott came in there and laid it straight with a long TRUE story about what happened... It came down to that he wanted to take the company in a different direction and that direction wasn't going to happen while in the situation he was in at RE so he sold it and started Fi in the direction he had wanted.... I will dig the posts where Scott sets the record straight in another forums gonna take some time though