theabunai

ROTFLMAO oh chit sorry rotflmao LOL

Any update on this stratusrt01

appleyard what's it tuned to now

How about a Fi "Q" or a SI BM ?

When will the prototype for the nightshade be available jacob 08 early part

Hows it's Daily driving capability or is it strictly an SPL sub..? Once again talking about putting a pair on a 3000D again.... ????

So jacob out of curiosity.... What line (A pair of 12's) would take a SAZ-3000D Daily at 1ohm (what's that About 1700 watts per sub Daily)

where did you design this at ??

I really wish lloyd would have done the Q in a sealed box.... Seeing the response graph and the review would've been so nice.... JimJ any plans to put up a response graph with a Sealed Q ?????

sell the t2 and get another BL... that is without a doubt what i would do...

It may "want" to see that airspace but what freq response will you get ? what is the projected rolloff ? Each brand of sub has it's own Freq. Response and rolloff (FS and f3).. this will lead to different sounds.... different wave forms, may even lead to cancellation which will make them sound very very soft....

What is your honest opinion on the Q vs the w6..? i heard a w6v2 the other day... WOW the SQ was pretty amazing.... wasn't a beast or anything like that but the SQ was pretty nice... (I haven't heard a Q and being in Hawaii leaves me little options on getting to hear one) end thread jack (not entirely comparing a Fi product to a JL product just more close in comparison then the OP)

He he he almond... http://electronics.search.ebay.com/sundown...ZR40QQsacatZ293

LOL Trust me when you send it in for warranty Scott has been doing this long enough to know when something is a manufactures error or a user error.. Not to mention this existing thread... Jimj is one of the most knowledgeable people on this forums when it comes to "sound" as well as a handful of others will say... Mixing subs PERIOD is a disaster.... Whether it be divided or not... Each brand sub has it's own unique T/S parameter and therefor act differently in a given enclosure... where brand A in a 2.0 cu^ft box will sound LOW and deep.. Brand "B" in the exact same enclosure may sound punchy and stiff. One may be louder the other softer...

Fi has a one year warranty... But under certain conditions the warranty is void (as with MANY companies) https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/...erms.shopscript

my bad i meant to hit 5 not 4 (for the SAZ-1500D) under 4 for the SAE-1000D...

It's alright.... It can power it By why spend the money for that amplifier line when you can get something WAY better for under 400 bucks... ?? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/shop/in...Cat&catId=9 IMO those are much better amps.... Competition amps... And those listed prices are NOT the actual price but dealers must list it as that.... email [email protected] for the REAL pricing on any amp you see on that page... You can read up on how good these amps are here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...hp?showforum=48 In fact now that i look at it ANY amp in the SSA store is a good choice... when looking for an amplifier i suggest you do some research on the AMP AND the company... Some companies are high Quality but those companies have a few "Entry Level" amps... Some companies are not known but make outstanding amplifiers... If you read up on them (take Sundown for example in that link i gave you they show REAL WORLD testing not just some number made up in hypothetical situations, REAL testing = Real Numbers...)

I can just picture you rolling your hands while you say this in a low voice then bellowing a loud sinister laughter after...... black00.. I thought you experienced guys just wave your hand in front of their faces and say "there is no need for fuses" and they repeat back to you "there is no need for fuses"......... LOL

your caps button is on... LOL Before i answer the question what are you using them to power ? And your budget...

actually scott as punishment for your wrong doings i think you should send me a BTL 15 and let me beat it to hell. THAT WILL LEARN YOU SON !! LAWL

How odd too.. When Scott had the X up it didn't get much attention...Once he took it away and Fi got a little more exposure the posts started building up for it.... Guess we all want what we can't have... I suspect that the AA line was the reason the X never made it back...

oddly enough you got your answer too LOL

farriswheel very good questions... very good foresight as well now if he had the gains all the way up, would his orions last? they are rated to go down to 4 ohms, not 2. but i don't have a whole lot of experience with orion amps. let me first start off by saying that ANY amp with the gains all the way will almost certainly spell trouble... A lot of experienced guys here will say if 3/4 should be MAX but no more than 1/2 way should be used... A high gain leads to clipping and clipping makes more heat then usable power (it's much more than that but in essence clipping is a very BAD THING for the amp and sub regardless of how much a sub is rated to take).... So the gains all the way up is not just a bad idea for an orion but all amps... I would suspect that over time the orions life span will shorten if it is used below it's stable impedance rating of 4 ohm.. So you are correct that it doesn't seem like a good idea to get another orion and hook it up one amp per coil (since i am certain the A/B orion amp is NOT strapable).. this also leads to another issue... you would need to set the gains with an Oscilloscope in this manner.. If one amps gain is not in tune with the other and they are powering each coil then it could spell trouble... I don't know anything about SPL amps.... I won't comment either way but I agree once again with farriswheel "well jason, you get for what you pay for" If he is experiencing voltage drop with rev then it would help but that also means that amp is not as efficient and one would like it to be... IMHO i would look into a Sundown amplifier... They are very very hard to beat for price per watt per performance and excellent customer service... Jacob is stellar and these types of issues (amp questions) he himself has no problem answering... As with Fi and scott, Jacob the owner personally see's to any issues that you will have with the amp and you will get "TRUE" power... An sae-1000d is highly efficient (up to 80%) and very strong.. and i believe it can be got for under 420 dollars... next up is a saz1500D Highly recommended... 1500 (+) watts for under 500 dollars.. you can PM denim (Aaron) or SSaudio (Mark) for a great deal on these amps (they advertise MSRP but the "real" price you will need to get via PM from them 2)... Also Farriswheel let him know that tuning that high is a bit of a trade of on Daily driving musicality... Finding his cars resonance will help him gain some numbers.... 12-16 square inches of port area per cu^ft is what Fi recommends and i would definitely listen to nick and scott on the matter... NOBODY knows their subs strengths and weaknesses better then the designers and abusers of the sub...

Whoa hey philip that should bring a smile to your face eh ??

12.5 volts is not much of a loss/drop in voltage... the alternator will help some but it won't be "substantially" louder... I don't think that amp is "taxing" the electrical that hard... (I have 2 x 1,000 watt amps and only an extra battery and I my voltage hardly drops below 13)... Prior to that i had 1000 watts with no alt and no extra battery and no issues (I have a small scion tC so it's not like i have a huge stock alt).... The alternator is a great start though, it will leave you with the available "amps on tap" should you decide to upgrade to a much better amp with more output potential... Once the alternator is in your nest move should be a better amp for that sub and you'll be doing pretty damn good in some local comps should you decide to compete... And i suggest it, you will learn a LOT from the veterans over there... People who has tried it all and knows "hands-on" what works and what doesn't